One more try to fix leak at differential flange a couple of questions?
jim larson said
Dec 9, 2013
Well the last fix didn't work. I installed a stainless sleeve on the flange surface. I think I put it on to far or the height was quite are large as it should have been. I think the inside lip of the seal ran on the ridge of the flange and might have allowed oil to get bye. I think I will have to install a hew flange along with a new seal.
Another question I have is in reference to packing the area between the two seals with high pressure lithium based grease. Not sure what area they are referring to, is it the area indicated in the photo.
Besides putting RTV on the splines of the flange, is there someway to make sure no oil leaks between the housing surface and the seal surface? Thanks.
Your repair sleeve should cover the "witness" marks on the original machined surface. The replacement seal should have been sized to accomodate the increased diameter of the new surface.
If the new seal "ran on the ridge" of the repair sleeve and the original material, it is now junk.
Yes, it is proper to pack/fill the recess between the seal lips with grease. One, to provide lube and prevent ripping/tearing of the seal lip on install, and two, to provide a buffer from the gear lube (which will eventually dissolve the grease) until the seal beds in on the new surface.
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 9, 2013
Was the rock guard wet on the seal side ? If so, it may have seeped between the sleeve and yoke.
Was the nut wet from lube following the splines ?
jim larson said
Dec 10, 2013
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Was the rock guard wet on the seal side ? If so, it may have seeped between the sleeve and yoke.
Was the nut wet from lube following the splines ?
Nut, washer, and splines were dry, oil appeared to leak from the back side of the rock guard/deflector and run down the carrier and get thrown up around the rear tail pipes, etc and the driveshaft would spin.
Well the last fix didn't work. I installed a stainless sleeve on the flange surface. I think I put it on to far or the height was quite are large as it should have been. I think the inside lip of the seal ran on the ridge of the flange and might have allowed oil to get bye. I think I will have to install a hew flange along with a new seal.
Another question I have is in reference to packing the area between the two seals with high pressure lithium based grease. Not sure what area they are referring to, is it the area indicated in the photo.
Besides putting RTV on the splines of the flange, is there someway to make sure no oil leaks between the housing surface and the seal surface? Thanks.
Your repair sleeve should cover the "witness" marks on the original machined surface. The replacement seal should have been sized to accomodate the increased diameter of the new surface.
If the new seal "ran on the ridge" of the repair sleeve and the original material, it is now junk.
Yes, it is proper to pack/fill the recess between the seal lips with grease. One, to provide lube and prevent ripping/tearing of the seal lip on install, and two, to provide a buffer from the gear lube (which will eventually dissolve the grease) until the seal beds in on the new surface.
Was the nut wet from lube following the splines ?
Nut, washer, and splines were dry, oil appeared to leak from the back side of the rock guard/deflector and run down the carrier and get thrown up around the rear tail pipes, etc and the driveshaft would spin.