For various reasons and functions I am installing a Viper 3203 car alarm. I installed it with the basic connections and I can't get anything to work. So, I took it back out and mocked it up on the bench.
I would think just the basic wiring would be enough to start setting it up. Here are the basic wires that I think should accomplish this:
H1/2 red wire on a constant 12v supply
H1/3 brown wire to red wire on siren (siren grounded to chassis)
H1/5 black wire to chassis ground
H3/5 yellow wire to ignition input + (this would be the IGN spade on the fuse box
When I follow the directions to pair up the remotes it says to:
1. Open a door
2. Turn the ignition on
3. Press and release then press and hold the control center button
the LED is now suppose to flash and the siren chirp which it is not. I wouldn't think the system would require anything more to be hooked up? Any initial ideas? I really can't find much on the Internet and the manual is very basic.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 16, 2013
Did you pull the insulator strip out of the remote battery contacts ??
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 16, 2013
Yes, I have done that and they light up so that part is complete. The initial setup and testing is where it is failing on me.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 16, 2013
4-door Chevelle wrote:
Yes, I have done that and they light up so that part is complete. The initial setup and testing is where it is failing on me.
It was just an "experience" related question. Can't help beyond that, Darren.
John D said
Apr 16, 2013
You're missing: +12v ignition input (H3/5 Yel)... usually requires +V while cranking (true ignition terminal) Door Switch input (H1/8 Gn)... GM uses a switched negative, normally open circuit.
With these missing the system won't know if the car is running or not, or if a door is open or not.
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 16, 2013
I have tapped in to the IGN spade on the fuse block for that wire, is that true ignition terminal?
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 16, 2013
I think it is.
John D said
Apr 16, 2013
Meter or test light it while turned to the cranking position... it should have +12v while cranking.
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 17, 2013
Well, it has +12v with the key in the started position. Do I need to find a wire that is +12v only while cranking? Any ideas on which wire???
John D said
Apr 17, 2013
I didn't explain that very well.... You need a source that is +12v in the "run" position that doesn't go dead when the key is turned to "start" and released.
You may need to "T-tap" a wire off of your ignition switch connector on the column.
(If the wire/terminal on the fusebox goes dead in "start", the alarm would think you switched the key "off" then back "on" again while cranking)
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 23, 2013
I did hook up to the IGN spade on the fuse box and it seems to work fine. The issue with my wiring was that I did not have some sort of connection to the door which is why it did not work. The door ended up being a negative feed as John indicated.
For various reasons and functions I am installing a Viper 3203 car alarm. I installed it with the basic connections and I can't get anything to work. So, I took it back out and mocked it up on the bench.
I would think just the basic wiring would be enough to start setting it up. Here are the basic wires that I think should accomplish this:
H1/2 red wire on a constant 12v supply
H1/3 brown wire to red wire on siren (siren grounded to chassis)
H1/5 black wire to chassis ground
H3/5 yellow wire to ignition input + (this would be the IGN spade on the fuse box
When I follow the directions to pair up the remotes it says to:
1. Open a door
2. Turn the ignition on
3. Press and release then press and hold the control center button
the LED is now suppose to flash and the siren chirp which it is not. I wouldn't think the system would require anything more to be hooked up? Any initial ideas? I really can't find much on the Internet and the manual is very basic.
It was just an "experience" related question. Can't help beyond that, Darren.
+12v ignition input (H3/5 Yel)... usually requires +V while cranking (true ignition terminal)
Door Switch input (H1/8 Gn)... GM uses a switched negative, normally open circuit.
With these missing the system won't know if the car is running or not, or if a door is open or not.
You may need to "T-tap" a wire off of your ignition switch connector on the column.
(If the wire/terminal on the fusebox goes dead in "start", the alarm would think you switched the key "off" then back "on" again while cranking)
Thanks Guys!!!