I did some changes regarding the real springs and would like to loosen and re-touque everything. My 66 chassis service manual is pretty clear here regarding the front and rear suspension , except for the torque on the front upper arm pivot shaft bushings.
It mentions to torque Collar bolts to 45 ft lb, is that the bolt that screws into the pivot shaft? It looks like a real pain to get at the rear upper bolt with the PB boster in there. I don't know how I will get at that bolt. Ideas? Maybe I can just skip that bolt??? Thanks
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 10, 2013
jim larson wrote:
I did some changes regarding the real springs and would like to loosen and re-touque everything. My 66 chassis service manual is pretty clear here regarding the front and rear suspension , except for the torque on the front upper arm pivot shaft bushings.
It mentions to torque Collar bolts to 45 ft lb, is that the bolt that screws into the pivot shaft? It looks like a real pain to get at the rear upper bolt with the PB boster in there. I don't know how I will get at that bolt. Ideas? Maybe I can just skip that bolt??? Thanks
That's a small size bolt..5/16 - 3/8. I wouldn't put 45 ft lbs on it. Probably 35 pounds. If you jack the front end up and let the suspension drop I think you can sneak in thru the wheel opening to access that bolt.
jim larson said
Mar 10, 2013
Lost in the 60s wrote:
jim larson wrote:
That's a small size bolt..5/16 - 3/8. I wouldn't put 45 ft lbs on it. Probably 35 pounds. If you jack the front end up and let the suspension drop I think you can sneak in thru the wheel opening to access that bolt.
Thanks, I though you were suppose to have the car sitting on all 4's when you tightend up the control arm bushings?
John D said
Mar 10, 2013
Recollection seems to nag that you leave the bolts finger-tight, bounce the nose of the car pretty violently (really get it going), and let it settle on it's own. Then torque the fasteners. Ditto on arond 35 ft/lbs... 5/16 doesn't need "Eat your Wheaties".
jim larson said
Mar 10, 2013
Just finished removing the rims and blocking the car under the shock mounts and jack stands under the rear axle. There is good access between the inner wheel well and frame to the Front Upper Control Arm collar bolts. I am wondering if I should use a little locktight, like red or blue?
All the bushing bolts and nuts are loose. So now the rocking process. I do believe I need to eat my Wheaties just for the rocking, at least employ a extra set of muscles. Thanks gain for the help.
I did some changes regarding the real springs and would like to loosen and re-touque everything. My 66 chassis service manual is pretty clear here regarding the front and rear suspension , except for the torque on the front upper arm pivot shaft bushings.
It mentions to torque Collar bolts to 45 ft lb, is that the bolt that screws into the pivot shaft? It looks like a real pain to get at the rear upper bolt with the PB boster in there. I don't know how I will get at that bolt. Ideas? Maybe I can just skip that bolt??? Thanks
That's a small size bolt..5/16 - 3/8. I wouldn't put 45 ft lbs on it. Probably 35 pounds. If you jack the front end up and let the suspension drop I think you can sneak in thru the wheel opening to access that bolt.
Thanks, I though you were suppose to have the car sitting on all 4's when you tightend up the control arm bushings?
Ditto on arond 35 ft/lbs... 5/16 doesn't need "Eat your Wheaties".
Just finished removing the rims and blocking the car under the shock mounts and jack stands under the rear axle. There is good access between the inner wheel well and frame to the Front Upper Control Arm collar bolts. I am wondering if I should use a little locktight, like red or blue?
All the bushing bolts and nuts are loose. So now the rocking process. I do believe I need to eat my Wheaties just for the rocking, at least employ a extra set of muscles. Thanks gain for the help.