Is this kit setup with a wide band o2 and self learning capabilities?

John for the return line it is pretty easy to put a fitting into the filler neck on the gas tank and let if fall back into the tank. That is how we did it on Bryans chevelle.

I am tired of having had nothing but bad luck with carbs and fuel pumps for my 64 and decide to go EFI and be done with it.  After reviewing the choices, I went with the avenger EFI setup 550-402 (900 cfm 4 barrel TBI).  I could have gone to multiple port setup but for my goals, I just don't need that extra that it would give over the TBI.  Plus I can swap different manifolds with TBI.  The Avenger ECU is the same as the HP series, just you use a laptop to gain more control over the system.  I will start with the easy hand held controller and then switch over the laptop later.

Here are some initial pics.

What comes in the kit

Swapped out the barbed fittings for my AN-6 fittings already in place.  Not required but my fuel lines are AN-6 already. Already had the 1/4 npt male to AN-6 male fittings, so no new cost.

Old carb setup

(John D, that bare wire splice in the middle of the below pic was just a temp thing to check the ground of the new wire harness headlight. The other none attached ground is for the fans, which I am redoing the wiring as the EFI will now turn them off and on at the settings I want. They will be good solid grounds when I am done.)

Carb and studs removed. 

New TBI in place.  Tip, the carb studs supplied with the kit are very short.  You cannot run the thick heat insulation gasket per the instructions. I had to put my longer carb studs back on.

Steps left

Modify a fuel sender for 5/16" or larger diameter tube return line.  I bought fuel sender (Spectre FG88E)) that has a 3/8" out line and 1/4" return line.  I was able  to un-soldered the 1/4 line easily and plan on expanding the hole to a 3/8" size and soldering in the line.

Run a 3/8" return fuel line back from TBI to the tank. Low pressure line, don't need that fancy line stuff, just a 3/8" rubber hose.

Setup the electric fuel pump and fuel filters line and mount, run wiring for the pump.

Either pull either a header or part of my exhaust and drill and weld in the O2 sensor bung in the collector.

Find a place to mount the ECU.

Plug in the electrical connectors to ECU and throttle body.

Install small body computer controlled HEI (not required but why not if the ECU will manage timing for you.)

I'll add more pics as I go. If you break these down into small tasks, it not that hard at all.

Looks nice, John. I don't remember, did you complete the milder cam swap last winter...

Could you use a Corvette fuel pressure regulator back at the tank and have the return right there instead of running the 3/8 hose back ?

Cool John! 

Can you share some budget amounts with us?  $1200-1500 all in?

Stan,

More than that. The Holley Avenger EFI 550-402 lists for $2054 at Summit. If you shop around, you can find it lower. I picked it up for $1900 shipped.

I now your thinking ouch but this a pretty complete kit and the ECU can me made to handle alot of stuff if desired for future expansion ( Avenger and HP use the same ECU, Avenger comes also with a hand held controlled versus using a laptop for HP series).

I did look at the swapping out a newer engine as I am doing with my Elky. Unless you get a donor vehicle, like I did for the Elky,  the costs can range greatly.

Engine $500-1500 used (5.3 to 6.0 with about 100K miles.) newer engine, low miles, all aluminum expect to pay more $$$$. Also how complete is the engine...starter, alternator, power steering pump, throttle body, fuel rails, accessories add up fast..
Headers $350-400 ($0 if you can reuse stock manifolds)
Engine Mounts $50-100
Oil Pan $250-$500  ($0 if you can use a stock pan (F-body pan))
Aftermarket Harness $600 - $750, factory engine harness $200
Fuel Lines $100 + for high pressure
Fuel Tank + pump $300-$1000 depending if you want a custom tank, stock pump, etc
ECU $100 (stock factory ECU)
ECU programing  $100 HP tuners license.
O2 sensor (wideband) - $85

plus rework current exhaust. (this all depends on how complete a setup you get from the yards.)

I gave serious though of going to a Mega-squirt DIY and piecing together the parts for a stealth ram but opted with something less learning intensive.

Budget wise
1900 EFI kit
40 Modified fuel sender for return line (RockAuto)
35 Small body computer controlled HEI and coil (U-pull)
25 return line rubber hose (25')
$2000

Enganeer wrote:

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So how did you put it in the filler neck? My tank is already installed.

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 Oh I thought you still had the tank out. We welded a threaded bung to the neck and then screwed an AN fitting to hook the line too.

Feeding the electric pump through the original line suction line of the sending unit is not a good idea. You might have problems as most higher pressure pumps don't suck very well. It would be better to sump your tank so it gravity feeds to the pump. The pump could also suck air with fuel slosh being there is no baffle in the tank to keep the sender submersed.

John. If your not planning to re-use it. I would be intrested in that T fitting I commented about the last time I was there, or the entire feed assembly if you dont plan to use it.

Slow progress this winter...removed the header on the passenger side for O2 bung but got sick for two weeks plus...first a nasty flu then cellulitus across face. Never been knock down so hard. 

O2 bung in place



Welded and painted.

"Wiring Police" accepts the temporary status of the mockup...  for "real time"!

You have a couple months yet to finish chewing that elephant.... then I expect to see that car for the first time...

Fabbed up the fuel pump mounting plate today since it was a balmy 34 degrees out.

I wanted to keep the pump as close as possible and at tank height or below.  I looked at alot of setups and I did not like the frame mounted pump as they were far away from the tank and looked out of place.  That does not give you much to work with but here is what I came up with.  I plan on making a protective plate to over the pump later for added protection from road debris.

Loosely mounted into place. The hole in the center is lined up with the fuel tank outlet.

Truck view

Pump and filters mouned to the plate loosely

Plate with setup mounted.

I plan on pulling it off, putting some bends along the top and bottom of the sheetmetal plate and painting it up.

Fuel system bracket setup disassembled, painted up and reassembled- check

Filters and pump mounted to bracket - check

Bracket setup reinstalled - check

All fuel lines are now connected in rear and secured to body under the trunk - check

The bites are getting smaller and easier now...

1. Secure fuel lines in frame
2. Find ECU mounting location
3. Wiring up computer to battery.
4. Wire up fuel pump.
5. Connect harnesses.
6. Complete heater block off plate.
7. Relocated electric cooling fan relays.
8. Finish car replacement wire harness install

I think I might be able to knock down a couple more steps tomorrow. 

Knocked a couple more off the list.

Heater block off plate - done.

Find ECU mounting - done.

I did not want to mount in the engine compartment but found there was no real place to mount in the inside of the firewall. That left me with under a seat or in the glove box.

I looked at the glove box and it made of a durable cardboard, so that was out, but I found a nice spot underneath the glove box. 

So I removed the glove box and there is a open area below where the glove box resides and above the AC duct work / linkages. 

I made a flat cardboard template and found that I could slide it straight into the glove box area with enough room for the ECU to mounted to the bottom side that I could get the connections.

Steel sheetmetal with ECU mounted.  I played around with my bead roller I bought and added some flanged sections for rigidity.

Mounting Plate installed. I have not reinstalled the glock box yet...it's mouse nasty but should still slip in when I buy a new one.

Floor view of the duct hose and ECU

Floor view ECU Access with duct removed - the blue knob is a cover port for the USB for programming.

John, you gotta be getting excited to fire it up soon.  Sounds like you are getting close. 

SShink wrote:

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John, you gotta be getting excited to fire it up soon.  Sounds like you are getting close. 

 

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 And with our extended winter, you probably have a few more weeks before it's warm enough to drive anyway...

Good to see you're still plugging away and I hope to see it this summer.

Wow, not much left.  Sounds like it would be a great Mother's Day gift to fire it up tomorrow! 

Installed the small body hei coil - ignition wire.
Connected the power on ign / battery lines
tons of ground inside.
Installed knock sensor plug in harness

I think tomorrow, I will be done with mounting the lines
Need to install knock sensor on block (optional)

So close...

Will you remember how to drive that car .

It will be fun to actually see it.

I was close enough to fire it up this week even though I still need to put finishing touches. 

My typical problems - Distributor (bad cap, rust inside), timing off a tooth or two and some setup instructions that could need some work.  Alternator was dead (the cord you see goes to a battery charger) (I think it is related to the new wire harness).  Oil pressure gauge does not work nor does the gas gauge.  

Once I got it figured how out to sync the distributor, it was much better behaved.

Best of all, it fires right up even when hot, does not stink like rich pig.  Need to see how it starts cold now.

Quick Load test video

I have put a few miles on now....mainly up and down the highway by my place and around the neighborhood. I put in hotter plugs in (NGK UR4) as the NGK BR6FS were fouling. I noticed this on test drives, it would stumble when getting any load. Using the learn cycle on the computer it easy now after some experience with the system.

Almost done putting drive ability touches on now.

I pulled off my 3" dynomax mufflers that dumped before the rear axle. Way to much reverb with the dynomax but sounded so nasty.   I could actually rattle the garage door when it was up and the car was underneath it.  Swapped out with a reducer 3 to 2-1/2 cones to a a pair of summit cheapies with full mandrel bend 2-1/2 tailpipes.  So much quieter, though I found mice had decided to use them as homes, so I have been spewed a huge amount fiberglass and interior padding when I got it.

I got about ten miles on today and broke my first part. Luckily I had just come home and was updating the ECU fuel map from my last drive and heard this clanking in the engine ...W T F. 

So I open the hood and I can hear a clanking sound and the tensioner is moving erratically.  I checked everything else - all the pulleys bearings, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, valve train, etc sounded smooth with the mechanics stethoscope except the tensioner.   I pulled in the garage and now the belt is squeaking, just great, is my new alternator is also going out too? 

Well that explains the belt squeaking I guess.

Hmmm, there should be a boss on the back of this thing.

I pulled out my old one and compared the two.  It looks like boss on the back of the new one was hardly there and what little was sheared off.  I wonder if this is the cause of a squeaking sound when I started up, like the tensioner pulley was skewed? I  swapped out to the old one and all is good.