Been very good to me. Quiet, and all the air I've needed, even with the blast cabinet.
I've replaced the pump assembly once. Just one of those things... the spring steel reed valve on one cylinder snapped off, and the cylinder swallowed it. All kinds of mayhem internally. They stood by the product, and even waaaayyyy out of warranty sold me a replacement pump (upgraded from original) assembly at cost (plus a bit).
Anyone have any connections at Cast-Air in Spicer MN?
I'm looking for something big... 80 gallon 2-stage 230V single phase. Want to go overkill on the quality so I never have to buy another one.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 25, 2012
What about C-Aire in Wyoming. Didn't Tony buy one of theirs a while back ?? He hasn't installed it yet but it seemed to be a powerful compressor. Mine is 5hp 2 stage, 175 lb, but I can't find the cfm specs anymore. It powers the cabinet fine but runs about 50% of the time I'm using the cabinet. More storage and cfm should mean less run time.
I use it for a pressure pot too and it runs non-stop to power that. I wish it had more cfm capacity. As for power tools, it handles all that very well.
Derek69SS said
Oct 25, 2012
I didn't realize they were in MN too.
For what people ask for big commercial compressors used on Craigslist, I think it's probably worth it to buy new... There's a used Snap-On listed right now for $2000 that retails for $4200, but I think there's a $2000 mark-up for the Snap-On logo. Looks like the $2300 C-aire has a better (all iron) pump, lower RPM, and more CFM.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 25, 2012
I would have a really hard time paying 2k for an used compressor with no warrenty when you can get that one new for 300 more...
Tony I see three air compressors in your link, which one do you have and what was the cost? Do you use it for a blast cabinet?
Tony Hoffer said
Oct 27, 2012
I bought the one at the top.. it was $2362.50 delivered with an electric tank drain kit... My intention was to run a blasting cabinet with it. I havent hooked it up yet as I havent been able to determine what I need to get.. Uh- hum someone was supposed to stop by and take a look...
Tony Hoffer said
Oct 27, 2012
This got my thinking about my project again... found this diagram.. Now Im back to the copper vs. Black pipe decision again
-- Edited by Tony Hoffer on Saturday 27th of October 2012 07:28:44 PM
Black is cheaper and easier to install. Copper cools the air quicker but you need to be able to solder. I have black pipe with 3 moisture drops from the ceiling.
dashboard said
Oct 28, 2012
Regardless of price, black or copper pipe, copper is very easy to work with but is a real fire hazard. In a fire when the soldier melts if there is pressure in the line it becomes an air source for the fire.
Chris R said
Oct 28, 2012
A few years ago. One of the Powerblock shows did an episode on how to deck out a shop and featured all sorts of equipment. One was the shop air lines using a company (of which I all of a sudden cant remember) that used a series of quick connect joints and easy to cut tubing. Looked really slick and it wasnt nearly as expensive as I was thinking it would be. Far cheaper then running copper pipe through a good sized shop.
Derek69SS said
Oct 28, 2012
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Black is cheaper and easier to install. Copper cools the air quicker but you need to be able to solder. I have black pipe with 3 moisture drops from the ceiling.
I'll probably cool my air the "farmer" way... 50' rubber hose coiled up in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water, and a moisture-trap after it.
Dad has done it that way for decades.
dashboard said
Oct 28, 2012
Simple is sometimes better and always cheaper.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 28, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Black is cheaper and easier to install. Copper cools the air quicker but you need to be able to solder. I have black pipe with 3 moisture drops from the ceiling.
I'll probably cool my air the "farmer" way... 50' rubber hose coiled up in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water, and a moisture-trap after it.
Dad has done it that way for decades.
I've never heard of that. Sounds interesting but how many run cycles of the compressor heating the water before you need to change it out ? I could use that for my pot blaster, where the comp runs continuously for a few hours to further cool the air before the pot. Actually, now that my brain is getting around this idea, I could put the bucket over my floor drain and have a slow trickle of cold water flowing in continuously while I run the cabinet too. Now I need to come up with the separator after the bucket. Whatcha got planned for that, Derek...
Derek69SS said
Oct 29, 2012
Dad never changes his water, and doesn't seem to have any moisture problems. He just adds some when it gets low. His compressor runs a lot (2-person body shop), but the ~4 gallons of water in the bucket absorbs a lot of heat, and dissipates it constantly.
Tim H said
Apr 15, 2013
Derek69SS wrote:
I'll probably cool my air the "farmer" way... 50' rubber hose coiled up in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water, and a moisture-trap after it.
Dad has done it that way for decades.
I was running my DA yesterday preping the new racecar body and started getting some moisture at the tool. I remembered reading what Derek said about the bucket cooler and decided to try it. Worked like a charm. Shot epoxy primer this morning and 2K tonight no moisture. When running the DA I felt the hose before it went in the bucket and right after it came out, huge difference in temp. I did put some snow in the bucket as well.
Huge Thanks Derek.
Chris R said
Apr 15, 2013
Tim. What are you doing and what are you using to keep the dust down when you paint? Wet down the floor? Put up plastic sheeting to create a both? What type of fans do you get rid of the fumes? Im always curious on how guys get good quality paint jobs painting in thier garage and how they keep the dust down. How do you do it?
This is the one I bought. They changed their part numbers, but still sell the same thing..
http://www.c-aireinc.com/Fact%20Sheet%20PDF/WC510822-95V3.pdf
-- Edited by Tony Hoffer on Thursday 25th of October 2012 02:19:46 PM
I've got a Cast-Air - current model is their Commercial Series C518VA8. Picked it up at their Shakopee location.
Been very good to me. Quiet, and all the air I've needed, even with the blast cabinet.
I've replaced the pump assembly once. Just one of those things... the spring steel reed valve on one cylinder snapped off, and the cylinder swallowed it. All kinds of mayhem internally. They stood by the product, and even waaaayyyy out of warranty sold me a replacement pump (upgraded from original) assembly at cost (plus a bit).
Anyone have any connections at Cast-Air in Spicer MN?
I'm looking for something big... 80 gallon 2-stage 230V single phase. Want to go overkill on the quality so I never have to buy another one.
What about C-Aire in Wyoming. Didn't Tony buy one of theirs a while back ?? He hasn't installed it yet but it seemed to be a powerful compressor. Mine is 5hp 2 stage, 175 lb, but I can't find the cfm specs anymore. It powers the cabinet fine but runs about 50% of the time I'm using the cabinet. More storage and cfm should mean less run time.
I use it for a pressure pot too and it runs non-stop to power that. I wish it had more cfm capacity. As for power tools, it handles all that very well.
I didn't realize they were in MN too.
Looks like the $2300 C-aire has a better (all iron) pump, lower RPM, and more CFM.
For what people ask for big commercial compressors used on Craigslist, I think it's probably worth it to buy new... There's a used Snap-On listed right now for $2000 that retails for $4200, but I think there's a $2000 mark-up for the Snap-On logo.
I would have a really hard time paying 2k for an used compressor with no warrenty when you can get that one new for 300 more...
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-convert-a-v8-engine-into-an-air-compressor#.UImXY4ZZdpg
Just Kidding
Tony I see three air compressors in your link, which one do you have and what was the cost? Do you use it for a blast cabinet?
I havent hooked it up yet as I havent been able to determine what I need to get.. Uh- hum someone was supposed to stop by and take a look...
This got my thinking about my project again... found this diagram.. Now Im back to the copper vs. Black pipe decision again
-- Edited by Tony Hoffer on Saturday 27th of October 2012 07:28:44 PM
Black is cheaper and easier to install. Copper cools the air quicker but you need to be able to solder. I have black pipe with 3 moisture drops from the ceiling.
Regardless of price, black or copper pipe, copper is very easy to work with but is a real fire hazard. In a fire when the soldier melts if there is pressure in the line it becomes an air source for the fire.
A few years ago. One of the Powerblock shows did an episode on how to deck out a shop and featured all sorts of equipment. One was the shop air lines using a company (of which I all of a sudden cant remember) that used a series of quick connect joints and easy to cut tubing. Looked really slick and it wasnt nearly as expensive as I was thinking it would be. Far cheaper then running copper pipe through a good sized shop.
I'll probably cool my air the "farmer" way... 50' rubber hose coiled up in a 5-gallon bucket filled with water, and a moisture-trap after it.
Dad has done it that way for decades.
Simple is sometimes better and always cheaper.
I've never heard of that. Sounds interesting but how many run cycles of the compressor heating the water before you need to change it out ? I could use that for my pot blaster, where the comp runs continuously for a few hours to further cool the air before the pot. Actually, now that my brain is getting around this idea, I could put the bucket over my floor drain and have a slow trickle of cold water flowing in continuously while I run the cabinet too. Now I need to come up with the separator after the bucket. Whatcha got planned for that, Derek...
I was running my DA yesterday preping the new racecar body and started getting some moisture at the tool. I remembered reading what Derek said about the bucket cooler and decided to try it. Worked like a charm. Shot epoxy primer this morning and 2K tonight no moisture. When running the DA I felt the hose before it went in the bucket and right after it came out, huge difference in temp. I did put some snow in the bucket as well.
Huge Thanks Derek.
Tim. What are you doing and what are you using to keep the dust down when you paint? Wet down the floor? Put up plastic sheeting to create a both? What type of fans do you get rid of the fumes? Im always curious on how guys get good quality paint jobs painting in thier garage and how they keep the dust down. How do you do it?