I am Officially Back in the Club!! Well I never left, but I have a Chevelle now...
gearlube said
Oct 13, 2012
I just couldn't justify the cost of the convertible. So I went with a Coupe. I have some fun plans for it. Gonna put in A/C, Paint, BBC, 700R4. Already has a 12 bolt POSI!, disc brakes, real chev 5 spoke, correct SS bumpers, buckets, floor console shifter, round guage dash, cowl hood, SS grill. All lights, gas guage etc work! So as you can see it has a lot of the expensive stuff out of the way. Its very straight and the shocking thing is no rust under neath or in the frame at all!!
-- Edited by gearlube on Saturday 13th of October 2012 09:50:55 PM
OscarZ said
Oct 14, 2012
Congrats Tom! Is that green? :)
dashboard said
Oct 14, 2012
Welcome back, well sort of.
Like the color, what’s the paint code? Don‘t change it if its original; but you’ll need AC. Are those black stripes?
gearlube said
Oct 14, 2012
Its a dark green, hunter green with Black Rally Stripes...Not sure on the paint code yet...
Bowtieman427 said
Oct 14, 2012
Very nice..Love the color...looks like a nice clean car.
RICKS70SS said
Oct 14, 2012
Well Nice looking Car ! I can feel your excitiment already No interior shots of it ? Good Luck Tom & have Fun with it. Did you buy it in Minn ?
SShink said
Oct 14, 2012
Welcome back as a Chevelle owner! I stopped by Friday night and checked it out, it's a SOLID car with as Tom says 'good bones'.
I thought it was a BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) 12 bolt after I looked at the pic some more. Tom, if you really want a Chevy 12 bolt and posi, here you go:
Better move quick on both NOW as they are priced right IMO.
This would let you pick your own gears too.
-- Edited by SShink on Sunday 14th of October 2012 06:51:54 PM
bowtie said
Oct 14, 2012
Still looks better than mine. NICE!
Tim H said
Oct 14, 2012
Look forward to seeing it next Saturday...
Not really interested in a 305. I'll probably get a 355 or 383 from Gary Hedon at Magnum Superchargers. I talked to him again today at eh swap meet. His 355's are dynoing at 350-365 hp and 390 ft pounds !! Complete, carb to pan with oil and filter for $2800... 383 is around 375 hp but 425-450 ft pounds torque for $500 more.
First off Congrats Tom. I like that green. Let me know what you want for the 305. I may have some interest in it.
Now to the 383's I am a bit surprised at the HP. The ones I've been around were getting near 500 HP and mid 400's for torque. The 383 is a great motor IMO.
-- Edited by Tim H on Sunday 14th of October 2012 06:35:31 PM
Derek69SS said
Oct 14, 2012
Very nice! What are your plans?
I did notice the rear axle is a GM corporate 12-bolt, and not a Chevy one... they can be pretty good depending on which one it is (hopefully not the Oldsmobile 10-bolt/12-bolt hybrid thing) but thought you should know now if you intend to order any parts for it, you'll have to figure out which type it is.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 14, 2012
Nice start, Tom but the rear axle is the Olds 12/10 bolt affair... Plenty strong enough for a mild small block but you'll want to get a Chev 12 bolt before the BBC install.
Is the current engine stock or built ? I may be interseted in it when it's time to come out. I'm still looking for a street rod and may end up with a "builder".
chevelle said
Oct 14, 2012
nice car!
Chris R said
Oct 14, 2012
Nice looking car. Ive always liked the unusual colors.
Welcome back as a Chevelle owner! I stopped by Friday night and checked it out, it's a SOLID car with as Tom says 'good bones'.
I thought it was a BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) 12 bolt after I looked at the pic some more. Tom, if you really want a Chevy 12 bolt and posi, here you go:
Better move quick on both NOW as they are priced right IMO.
This would let you pick your own gears too.
The posi link goes back to the axle....and I would need a pic or numbers off the "12 bolt" too many wrong Id's lately...
gearlube said
Oct 15, 2012
Thanks on catching the rear Mitch. Would have never known. I have done some reading. At least it is stronger than the GM 10 bolt!! But it is not a true 12 bolt. It will be plenty strong for what I want to due. Going to put in a Skip White built 383. So no BB. But you all sure saved me a big head ache on the gears. Now I will be looking for lower ring and pinion.
Mitch it is a good running 305. You can hear it running before I pull it.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 15, 2012
gearlube wrote:
Thanks on catching the rear Mitch. Would have never known. I have done some reading. At least it is stronger than the GM 10 bolt!! But it is not a true 12 bolt. It will be plenty strong for what I want to due. Going to put in a Skip White built 383. So no BB. But you all sure saved me a big head ache on the gears. Now I will be looking for lower ring and pinion.
Mitch it is a good running 305. You can hear it running before I pull it.
Look forward to seeing it next Saturday...
Not really interested in a 305. I'll probably get a 355 or 383 from Gary Hedon at Magnum Superchargers. I talked to him again today at eh swap meet. His 355's are dynoing at 350-365 hp and 390 ft pounds !! Complete, carb to pan with oil and filter for $2800... 383 is around 375 hp but 425-450 ft pounds torque for $500 more.
gearlube said
Oct 15, 2012
Not sure I trust it all the way downto Derecks. Doubt I will drive it that far. Haven't gone through it. Your right 305's are large paper weights. Will strip the engine for parts and then scrap the 305. Found a place in St Paul for my 700r4 and he is gonna let me trade in the 350. I have 3.90 gears in the rear, I did the wheel spin count. Did the calculations and the .70 OD will be fine for highway. With a small block it will work good. Will be fun out of the whole!!! One thing I just noticed that I didn't when I went over the car is that the heater box is gone. This for me is actually very good because I am going with Vintage Air setup so it saves me half the job!! Less mess too. I am lining up my projects and am going on my spending spree soon!! That is always fun. The paint has some flaws, but the color is growing on me. I am going to wet sand and buff it and hold off on the color change for a season. Drive it in 2013 this color then I will paint it later and it will feel like another Velle. Gonna tackle the interior. I am going to do my own seats and headliner. Yes I know what your thinking. But I want to try it even if it is hellish. Remember I am the Internet Mechanic as 90% of my knowledge has been You Tube etc. I plan to really document and take pics this time to help others now that I have some experience.
Tim H said
Oct 15, 2012
gearlube wrote:
I am going to wet sand and buff it and hold off on the color change for a season. Drive it in 2013 this color then I will paint it later and it will feel like another Velle. Gonna tackle the interior. I am going to do my own seats and headliner. Yes I know what your thinking. But I want to try it even if it is hellish. Remember I am the Internet Mechanic as 90% of my knowledge has been You Tube etc. I plan to really document and take pics this time to help others now that I have some experience.
Let me know if you want some tips on that wet sanding.
The interior can be done but I've done a couple of headliners and I would not do another one. I know a pro who will travel to your place to do it for about $300 in labor. I think it's well worth it.
When you do the seats try to do them in the sunlight and let the covers get real warm it helps stretch them. Also tying the springs in a compressed position is a good way of stretching the material.
gearlube said
Oct 15, 2012
Thanks Tim. I am looking at a 383 that is 450HP. It's a new engine. I like starting that way with a warranty etc. Quick Fuel 750 carb dual plane intake and headers with the 700r4 will be a fun setup. I thought about a BBC but SBC are fun too because they are really quick and I love how you can wind them up! Will have cold A/C to boot. Got some serious wet sanding to do on it because it was never done and has orange peel, fish eyes, dirt in the paint. Has white letters on the inside and am going to turn those out. And the list begins.....
gearlube said
Oct 15, 2012
Tim I agree on the head liner. Please PM me his info. The seats maybe easier. Yes your the guru on wet sanding so I need to buy you a cold one to pick your brain.
SShink said
Oct 15, 2012
Sorry about the wrong posi link... Here's the right one:
12 bolt is sold. Plus it is really out of my budget. Not dragging this car, and the Olds is good enough for the 442's out there. Just have to be careful. They are 3.90 gears and will be fine with an OD.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 15, 2012
Tim H wrote:
Look forward to seeing it next Saturday...
Not really interested in a 305. I'll probably get a 355 or 383 from Gary Hedon at Magnum Superchargers. I talked to him again today at eh swap meet. His 355's are dynoing at 350-365 hp and 390 ft pounds !! Complete, carb to pan with oil and filter for $2800... 383 is around 375 hp but 425-450 ft pounds torque for $500 more.
First off Congrats Tom. I like that green. Let me know what you want for the 305. I may have some interest in it.
Now to the 383's I am a bit surprised at the HP. The ones I've been around were getting near 500 HP and mid 400's for torque. The 383 is a great motor IMO.
-- Edited by Tim H on Sunday 14th of October 2012 06:35:31 PM
The really high end 383's with expensive parts will put out more power. His are made from everyday Chevrolet parts that he builds. He can get the hp over 400 and the torque near 500 but it costs more than the $3300 and they aren't necessarily pump gas friendly. If you want him to build a 6k sbc, he will... Tom, they do have a warranty and every internal part is new, only the basic castings are re-machined. Wheeler does all his dyno and tuning work. Not a lot of info on his website, but check it out www.magnumsuperchargers.com Gary has been building engines for 40 years and used to build the engines for and drive the GSTA dragster.
gearlube said
Oct 15, 2012
Mitch will check it out thanks.
67ss said
Oct 15, 2012
I really like the green, seems to be a forgotten color for old cars these days. A 383 will make as much torque as a big block with less weight.
Tim H said
Oct 15, 2012
gearlube wrote:
Tim I agree on the head liner. Please PM me his info. The seats maybe easier. Yes your the guru on wet sanding so I need to buy you a cold one to pick your brain.
young guy. We know him from racing. He did my 69 headliner.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 15, 2012
Tim H wrote:
gearlube wrote:
Tim I agree on the head liner. Please PM me his info. The seats maybe easier. Yes your the guru on wet sanding so I need to buy you a cold one to pick your brain.
young guy. We know him from racing. He did my 69 headliner.
I saw that '36 on his website at the Farmington show a while back. That interior is incredible !!!
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 15, 2012
Tom, I went to Skip Whites web site and it sounds like a very good build for the price. One advantage of his Stage 2 383 is the use of a newer block with roller cam and one piece rear seal. I would be wary of the Procomp heads though. They have a lot of negative press on the web. He seems to address the most common issues but they still seem to be prone to out of square machining. If he resurfaces them all before building, it may all be good...
Scott Parkhurst said
Oct 16, 2012
Congrats Tom! That's a great car that will only get better under your ownership. Can't wait to see it!
I just couldn't justify the cost of the convertible. So I went with a Coupe. I have some fun plans for it. Gonna put in A/C, Paint, BBC, 700R4. Already has a 12 bolt POSI!, disc brakes, real chev 5 spoke, correct SS bumpers, buckets, floor console shifter, round guage dash, cowl hood, SS grill. All lights, gas guage etc work! So as you can see it has a lot of the expensive stuff out of the way. Its very straight and the shocking thing is no rust under neath or in the frame at all!!
-- Edited by gearlube on Saturday 13th of October 2012 09:50:55 PM
Congrats Tom! Is that green? :)
Welcome back, well sort of.
Like the color, what’s the paint code? Don‘t change it if its original; but you’ll need AC. Are those black stripes?
Well Nice looking Car ! I can feel your excitiment already
No interior shots of it ? Good Luck Tom & have Fun with it. Did you buy it in Minn ?
Welcome back as a Chevelle owner!
I stopped by Friday night and checked it out, it's a SOLID car with as Tom says 'good bones'.
I thought it was a BOP (Buick/Olds/Pontiac) 12 bolt after I looked at the pic some more. Tom, if you really want a Chevy 12 bolt and posi, here you go:
12 Bolt Link
3 Series Posi Link
Better move quick on both NOW as they are priced right IMO.
This would let you pick your own gears too.
-- Edited by SShink on Sunday 14th of October 2012 06:51:54 PM
First off Congrats Tom. I like that green. Let me know what you want for the 305. I may have some interest in it.
Now to the 383's I am a bit surprised at the HP. The ones I've been around were getting near 500 HP and mid 400's for torque. The 383 is a great motor IMO.
-- Edited by Tim H on Sunday 14th of October 2012 06:35:31 PM
I did notice the rear axle is a GM corporate 12-bolt, and not a Chevy one... they can be pretty good depending on which one it is (hopefully not the Oldsmobile 10-bolt/12-bolt hybrid thing) but thought you should know now if you intend to order any parts for it, you'll have to figure out which type it is.
Nice start, Tom but the rear axle is the Olds 12/10 bolt affair...
Plenty strong enough for a mild small block but you'll want to get a Chev 12 bolt before the BBC install.
Is the current engine stock or built ? I may be interseted in it when it's time to come out. I'm still looking for a street rod and may end up with a "builder".
Nice looking car. Ive always liked the unusual colors.
Looks like Mitch is right with the ID... it is the weaker Olds version.
http://www.jdrace.com/Rear_ID/12b84Olds.htm
The posi link goes back to the axle....and I would need a pic or numbers off the "12 bolt" too many wrong Id's lately...
Mitch it is a good running 305. You can hear it running before I pull it.
Look forward to seeing it next Saturday...
Not really interested in a 305. I'll probably get a 355 or 383 from Gary Hedon at Magnum Superchargers. I talked to him again today at eh swap meet. His 355's are dynoing at 350-365 hp and 390 ft pounds !! Complete, carb to pan with oil and filter for $2800...
383 is around 375 hp but 425-450 ft pounds torque for $500 more.
Let me know if you want some tips on that wet sanding.
The interior can be done but I've done a couple of headliners and I would not do another one. I know a pro who will travel to your place to do it for about $300 in labor. I think it's well worth it.
When you do the seats try to do them in the sunlight and let the covers get real warm it helps stretch them. Also tying the springs in a compressed position is a good way of stretching the material.
Sorry about the wrong posi link... Here's the right one:
12 bolt posi link
The really high end 383's with expensive parts will put out more power. His are made from everyday Chevrolet parts that he builds. He can get the hp over 400 and the torque near 500 but it costs more than the $3300 and they aren't necessarily pump gas friendly. If you want him to build a 6k sbc, he will... Tom, they do have a warranty and every internal part is new, only the basic castings are re-machined. Wheeler does all his dyno and tuning work. Not a lot of info on his website, but check it out www.magnumsuperchargers.com Gary has been building engines for 40 years and used to build the engines for and drive the GSTA dragster.
I really like the green, seems to be a forgotten color for old cars these days. A 383 will make as much torque as a big block with less weight.
http://cargocollective.com/Knishkustomz#Home
Dan Knish
young guy. We know him from racing. He did my 69 headliner.
I saw that '36 on his website at the Farmington show a while back. That interior is incredible !!!
Tom, I went to Skip Whites web site and it sounds like a very good build for the price. One advantage of his Stage 2 383 is the use of a newer block with roller cam and one piece rear seal. I would be wary of the Procomp heads though. They have a lot of negative press on the web. He seems to address the most common issues but they still seem to be prone to out of square machining. If he resurfaces them all before building, it may all be good...