Vinyl trunk matt rust issue, how to resolve the issue?
Jon H said
Aug 8, 2012
Last week at the GTO show Kevin asked me why I had a vinyl matt in my trunk. I said how else can you get the floor to rust quickly. The conversation went further to see what others were doing if anything to stop the evil trunk rust. Jim had a carpet between the matt and trunk floor to allow air to circulate. Kevin replaced the matt with indoor/outdoor carpet. What do others do and is there a easonable way to prevent the inevitable rust below the vinyl trunk matt?
Tim H said
Aug 8, 2012
I've been removing the paint from the trunk floor and then painting it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, top coating that with Rustoleum grey paint then the splatter paint. It seems to work so far. I suppose you could sand it some and the do the top coat and splatter paint. That seems to seal the metal.
Splatter paint does not stick to POR 15 I found that out the hard way.
-- Edited by Tim H on Wednesday 8th of August 2012 07:33:25 PM
autoworker said
Aug 8, 2012
I sprayed some clear, just on the floor. no rust yet. also keep a damp rid coat hanger type you can get at menards to hang on the trunk spring rods when in the garage. works for me
Chris R said
Aug 8, 2012
Years ago the best way I learned how to resolve it was to just not have any sort of mat or cover back there.
bowtie said
Aug 9, 2012
I have an old dirty oily piece of carpet.
Jon H said
Aug 9, 2012
Tim H wrote:
Splatter paint does not stick to POR 15 I found that out the hard way.
Thank you, that just saved me a whole lot of headache.
jim larson said
Aug 9, 2012
Jon H wrote:
Tim H wrote:
Splatter paint does not stick to POR 15 I found that out the hard way.
Thank you, that just saved me a whole lot of headache.
POR also make a primer to go between the POR and another Type of top coat call "Tie-Coat-Primer". Some people recommend, remove rust as best as possible, clean with acetone or lacque thiner, 2 coats of POR, a Coat ot the "Tie -Coat". Then coat with the zolatone. Not necessary to seal if you use zolatone. If you use the spatter paint that gm, napa, or etc, sells you must clear coat to seal the surface.
John D said
Aug 9, 2012
2nd on the clear or satin coat of the rattle-can splatter stuff. I used Dupli-Color's spray stuff.... looked GREAT until a little water got into the smuggler's box. I went in there with a towel to mop/blot up the water and the paint came OFF on the towel!! Count on doing several light to medium coats to seal it off.
Jon H said
Aug 10, 2012
Any reccommendatins of clear coat to seal? I see you can get clear coat in a can for mixing in a sprayer, but can it be applied with a brush? Should be able to lay on a good coat without overspray to be concerned about if you can.
John D said
Aug 10, 2012
I just went with a couple of big rattle-cans of Dupli-color clear (chose the same mfg. to try & avoid compatability issues).
Downside is it is gloss. (which in my case isn't a big deal).
I would think that after fully drying, you could topcoat the splatter with a Krylon/Rustoleum/HomeDepot generic satin or flat finish clear spray without ill effects... but be sure to do a "test panel"!! (depending on the solvents it may attack the basecoat).
It comes out of the can like a firehose! Waste a bit (on your test panel) to get the feel for the spray & can.
Do a very good job masking off what you don't want splattered! (see pics - to get nice light coats & no runs, I had to be about 14" from the panel, and "modulate" the spray button. It goes everywhere!)
It takes 4x plus the time listed on the can to fully dry!
Ever curious about what can go on top of what... (that is with paint products)?
Very interesting John.
I got a can of clear urethane enamel from my neighbor who is an auto painter and am going to try and bush a coat of clear (just to cut down on overspray even though it will be taped off) on top of the spatter paint. I will of course try a test run on a sample. He says the hardener in a hand mixed sample will cause the final product to be harder that the spray on clear out of a rattle can just because of the way it has to be mixed to work in a rattle can.
Last week at the GTO show Kevin asked me why I had a vinyl matt in my trunk. I said how else can you get the floor to rust quickly. The conversation went further to see what others were doing if anything to stop the evil trunk rust. Jim had a carpet between the matt and trunk floor to allow air to circulate. Kevin replaced the matt with indoor/outdoor carpet. What do others do and is there a easonable way to prevent the inevitable rust below the vinyl trunk matt?
I've been removing the paint from the trunk floor and then painting it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer, top coating that with Rustoleum grey paint then the splatter paint. It seems to work so far. I suppose you could sand it some and the do the top coat and splatter paint. That seems to seal the metal.
Splatter paint does not stick to POR 15 I found that out the hard way.
-- Edited by Tim H on Wednesday 8th of August 2012 07:33:25 PM
when in the garage. works for me
Years ago the best way I learned how to resolve it was to just not have any sort of mat or cover back there.
Thank you, that just saved me a whole lot of headache.
POR also make a primer to go between the POR and another Type of top coat call "Tie-Coat-Primer". Some people recommend, remove rust as best as possible, clean with acetone or lacque thiner, 2 coats of POR, a Coat ot the "Tie -Coat". Then coat with the zolatone. Not necessary to seal if you use zolatone. If you use the spatter paint that gm, napa, or etc, sells you must clear coat to seal the surface.
I just went with a couple of big rattle-cans of Dupli-color clear (chose the same mfg. to try & avoid compatability issues).
Downside is it is gloss. (which in my case isn't a big deal).
I would think that after fully drying, you could topcoat the splatter with a Krylon/Rustoleum/HomeDepot generic satin or flat finish clear spray without ill effects... but be sure to do a "test panel"!! (depending on the solvents it may attack the basecoat).
Some more on the rattle-can splatter paint... (NAPA has it, btw)
It comes out of the can like a firehose! Waste a bit (on your test panel) to get the feel for the spray & can.
Do a very good job masking off what you don't want splattered! (see pics - to get nice light coats & no runs, I had to be about 14" from the panel, and "modulate" the spray button. It goes everywhere!)
It takes 4x plus the time listed on the can to fully dry!
Kinda "on topic"...
Ever curious about what can go on top of what... (that is with paint products)?
Very interesting John.
I got a can of clear urethane enamel from my neighbor who is an auto painter and am going to try and bush a coat of clear (just to cut down on overspray even though it will be taped off) on top of the spatter paint. I will of course try a test run on a sample. He says the hardener in a hand mixed sample will cause the final product to be harder that the spray on clear out of a rattle can just because of the way it has to be mixed to work in a rattle can.