We have a 2005 Suburban and the A/C has failed twice drives me nuts and is still not working. 3 years ago had it serived and worked fine over summer. Last summer it quit working tryied to add to it got to the put where compressor would hook up but soon after it would not work. It does have rear air .
Do any of you guys service these things or have any ideas on how a do it yourselferwould fix this. Last year I tried to recharge it and for some reason it would not hold the charge. I may have to put a lot more cans in but would rather fix the problem and be done with it. If anyone does this sort of work or has knowlege or lend a hand please share. We hate not having AC in it.
We are planning a family trip to WNY august 1st and would like to have AC.
bowtie said
Jul 5, 2012
If it's a leak in the rear lines, there is a bypass you can get from Auto Air and Accessories in Blaine block them off instead of replacing them (not a fun job from what I hear). I would try to check the system for leaks, there's dyes you can use. That's about the extent of my AC skill.
Chris R said
Jul 5, 2012
If you have a leak, which it sounds like you do. Constantly putting refrigerant in isnt going to do you any good. Automotive AC systems have so many joints that can leak that they just plain suck to work on. Done that for a living the last 20 years. It always seemed unless the leak was obvious, you just kept chasing it for years on some vehicles. I cant tell you how many vehicles I have had come into my bay that customers said werent blowing cold air (which they werent) and you evacuated and pulled a vacuum on them, noticed that they also held a vacuum, then charged them to where they were supposed to be and still never found any leaks.
Most refrigerant oils, if not all of them now, have dye already in them. So if you have access to black lights and yellow glasses, you can use them to locate leaks throughout the system. Check all the spots where AC lines connect to eachother or another component in the system. Also look around joints for any buildup of oil that would indicate a leak. An AC "sniffer" leak detector tool is the better tool for this sort of thing though, especially for checking if an evap inside the dash is leaking. Also dont forget that a compressor clutch can leak through the front seal on the compressor itself. The last Burb I fixed AC on had rear AC as well but that was a 92. Rear lines were shot.
Chad said
Jul 6, 2012
just picked up my wife's trail blazer an hour ago from Auto Dealer Service. It had a slow leak last year, charged it, worked for a year but this year nothing. I charged it to 60-70 psi, shut the car off then listened for the leak, found it at the rear lines .Dealer said to fix it, the body need's to come of the frame - $1,300 fix. My guy at Transmission Doctor said $490 for the parts, $200 labor. Shakopee Chev said the best thing to do is block off the lines. $250 later - happy wife. Auto Service Dealer's no. is 952-933-3575.
We have a 2005 Suburban and the A/C has failed twice drives me nuts and is still not working. 3 years ago had it serived and worked fine over summer. Last summer it quit working tryied to add to it got to the put where compressor would hook up but soon after it would not work. It does have rear air .
Do any of you guys service these things or have any ideas on how a do it yourselferwould fix this. Last year I tried to recharge it and for some reason it would not hold the charge. I may have to put a lot more cans in but would rather fix the problem and be done with it. If anyone does this sort of work or has knowlege or lend a hand please share. We hate not having AC in it.
We are planning a family trip to WNY august 1st and would like to have AC.
If you have a leak, which it sounds like you do. Constantly putting refrigerant in isnt going to do you any good. Automotive AC systems have so many joints that can leak that they just plain suck to work on. Done that for a living the last 20 years. It always seemed unless the leak was obvious, you just kept chasing it for years on some vehicles. I cant tell you how many vehicles I have had come into my bay that customers said werent blowing cold air (which they werent) and you evacuated and pulled a vacuum on them, noticed that they also held a vacuum, then charged them to where they were supposed to be and still never found any leaks.
Most refrigerant oils, if not all of them now, have dye already in them. So if you have access to black lights and yellow glasses, you can use them to locate leaks throughout the system. Check all the spots where AC lines connect to eachother or another component in the system. Also look around joints for any buildup of oil that would indicate a leak. An AC "sniffer" leak detector tool is the better tool for this sort of thing though, especially for checking if an evap inside the dash is leaking. Also dont forget that a compressor clutch can leak through the front seal on the compressor itself. The last Burb I fixed AC on had rear AC as well but that was a 92. Rear lines were shot.