Looking for a little information. I have been doing quite a bit of reading on the Jeep GC conversion to change the ratio and create a little stiffer feel.
The only thing is I would like to use an original 66 box as there are quite a few differences in the Jeep box, like 3 mounting pads instead of 4, even though only 3 are used. Some other visual difference. Then there are the Lee inserts you must use to use the original hoses, the change in the rag joint which will fit the 67-steering column flange; but you have to modify your 66 flange if you want to use it.
It looks like you can take the internals out of a Jeep box and swap them to the 66 box; but I still have the problem with the change in the input shaft size that is 3/4" instead of the 13/16" so you would have to do the rag joint/ flange thing .
What I would like to do, if possible is use the 66 input shaft with the rest of the Jeep internals. I have not been able to find out if this is possible? Anyone know if this is possible.
I guess I could buy a new resto ARG gear box from summit (about $400 when all is said and done). Again the box at first glance looks ok; but there are differences. All the internals will go in the 66 box I am told. And it has the input shaft that a 13/16" end to fit the original 64-76 car rag joints. Or send it out to someone like Lee Manufactoring.
He was an engineer at Saginaw, and knows those steering boxes inside-and-out. He will know if the internals are all interchangeable.
I sent him a email this morning. Waiting to here from him. The information I have is from reading his papers on steering.
In one of his posts on TC regarding swaping the internals, he stated that you:
"MUST" use the worm and rack along with the pitman shaft as a matched set from the used JGC gear.
You "SHOULD" use the bearing, valve, and adjuster plug from the JGC gear.
I wrote to him on a clarifcation of the "SHOULD" items. Along with a clarification on the intermediate shaft (input shaft).
I think that if you want the stiffer turn you have to use the JCG valve and think that means you would have to use the intermediate shaft from the JGC gear.
If this is the case, I would have to get a rag joint for the 3/4" shaft and then modify my steering column flange. It would take an expert to know the difference. Hey maybe you have a extra steering column flange?
Chris R said
Apr 13, 2012
Jim. If you want a quicker ratio in your stock original steering box. I would just recommend having yours rebuilt with the quicker ratio internals then. Thats what I did and Brad Wilder did that on his El Camino he had since he was a strictler on the details as well. You end up getting nearly the same quick ratio and upgraded feel as you would with the Jeep box. It also saves the hassle of trying to retro-fit parts from a Jeep box into your steering box anyways. So in the end, you basically rebuilt the steering box anyways (after all, it had to be completely taken apart anyways for this upgrade).
Lares Corp in Cambridge does this work or me and Brad sent our numbers correct steering boxes to Power Steering Services in Missouri along with many TC'ers with no trouble. Brad had his converted to quick ratio, I believe as his 70 had power steering. My 66 does not have power steering and I just wanted mine rebuilt.
I may end up going to power steering and since I dont have a numbers car. Since a numbers correct PS box doesnt matter to me personally, I highly recommend the JGC steering box.
Derek69SS said
Apr 13, 2012
I had a whole column that I gave to somebody in the club last year... Jamie Munter or Chris Reid maybe.
I've never had a steering box apart, so I can't help much with that...
jim larson said
Apr 14, 2012
I think the guy in MO by the name of Chip only changes the ratio and replaces other parts that are worn to bad with original part. I don't think he changes the valves to increase the turning effort.
I don't understand what they are talking about when they refere to the T bar?
jim larson said
Apr 21, 2012
Looks like a few good options out there for a rebuild and ratio change if you want to retain your original box and look, if you want to pay the price.
Tom Lee in CA wants $440 plush S&H for a ratio change, torsion bar change, and rebuild. Waiting to here if he will put a larger T-bar in my input shaft and I would do the rest.
Chip in MO want $330 for a ratio change and rebuild, with no change in the T-bar (he doesn't do that).
ARG will take your gear box, machine it to fit their parts with a ratio change and a T-bar size to your specifications for $330 plus S&H.
Chris R said
Apr 21, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
I had a whole column that I gave to somebody in the club last year... Jamie Munter or Chris Reid maybe.
I've never had a steering box apart, so I can't help much with that...
I forgot to respond to this the other day. If you need a whole column, check with Jamie. Ill bet he grabbed Dereks extra column. He has the space to store a lot of stuff and usually takes free parts off anyones hands if no one wants it, for the just in case someone else down the road in the club needs it.
Looking for a little information. I have been doing quite a bit of reading on the Jeep GC conversion to change the ratio and create a little stiffer feel.
The only thing is I would like to use an original 66 box as there are quite a few differences in the Jeep box, like 3 mounting pads instead of 4, even though only 3 are used. Some other visual difference. Then there are the Lee inserts you must use to use the original hoses, the change in the rag joint which will fit the 67-steering column flange; but you have to modify your 66 flange if you want to use it.
It looks like you can take the internals out of a Jeep box and swap them to the 66 box; but I still have the problem with the change in the input shaft size that is 3/4" instead of the 13/16" so you would have to do the rag joint/ flange thing .
What I would like to do, if possible is use the 66 input shaft with the rest of the Jeep internals. I have not been able to find out if this is possible? Anyone know if this is possible.
I guess I could buy a new resto ARG gear box from summit (about $400 when all is said and done). Again the box at first glance looks ok; but there are differences. All the internals will go in the 66 box I am told. And it has the input shaft that a 13/16" end to fit the original 64-76 car rag joints. Or send it out to someone like Lee Manufactoring.
Contact "JIML82" on Team Chevelle http://www.chevelles.com/forums/member.php?u=9377
He was an engineer at Saginaw, and knows those steering boxes inside-and-out. He will know if the internals are all interchangeable.
I sent him a email this morning. Waiting to here from him. The information I have is from reading his papers on steering.
In one of his posts on TC regarding swaping the internals, he stated that you:
"MUST" use the worm and rack along with the pitman shaft as a matched set from the used JGC gear.
You "SHOULD" use the bearing, valve, and adjuster plug from the JGC gear.
I wrote to him on a clarifcation of the "SHOULD" items. Along with a clarification on the intermediate shaft (input shaft).
I think that if you want the stiffer turn you have to use the JCG valve and think that means you would have to use the intermediate shaft from the JGC gear.
If this is the case, I would have to get a rag joint for the 3/4" shaft and then modify my steering column flange. It would take an expert to know the difference. Hey maybe you have a extra steering column flange?
Jim. If you want a quicker ratio in your stock original steering box. I would just recommend having yours rebuilt with the quicker ratio internals then. Thats what I did and Brad Wilder did that on his El Camino he had since he was a strictler on the details as well. You end up getting nearly the same quick ratio and upgraded feel as you would with the Jeep box. It also saves the hassle of trying to retro-fit parts from a Jeep box into your steering box anyways. So in the end, you basically rebuilt the steering box anyways (after all, it had to be completely taken apart anyways for this upgrade).
Lares Corp in Cambridge does this work or me and Brad sent our numbers correct steering boxes to Power Steering Services in Missouri along with many TC'ers with no trouble. Brad had his converted to quick ratio, I believe as his 70 had power steering. My 66 does not have power steering and I just wanted mine rebuilt.
I may end up going to power steering and since I dont have a numbers car. Since a numbers correct PS box doesnt matter to me personally, I highly recommend the JGC steering box.
I've never had a steering box apart, so I can't help much with that...
I think the guy in MO by the name of Chip only changes the ratio and replaces other parts that are worn to bad with original part. I don't think he changes the valves to increase the turning effort.
I don't understand what they are talking about when they refere to the T bar?
Looks like a few good options out there for a rebuild and ratio change if you want to retain your original box and look, if you want to pay the price.
Tom Lee in CA wants $440 plush S&H for a ratio change, torsion bar change, and rebuild. Waiting to here if he will put a larger T-bar in my input shaft and I would do the rest.
Chip in MO want $330 for a ratio change and rebuild, with no change in the T-bar (he doesn't do that).
ARG will take your gear box, machine it to fit their parts with a ratio change and a T-bar size to your specifications for $330 plus S&H.
I forgot to respond to this the other day. If you need a whole column, check with Jamie. Ill bet he grabbed Dereks extra column. He has the space to store a lot of stuff and usually takes free parts off anyones hands if no one wants it, for the just in case someone else down the road in the club needs it.