After putting in the 1" Hotchkis lowering springs and Bilstein shocks, the Chevelle is riding/handling great, but I need to get it in for a front end alignment since the spring install may have changed things.
Derek-You gave me some alignment recommendations a couple of years ago for the white '71 Chevelle I had at the time. Can you list those again for stock arms and the 1" lowering springs?
I know it's somewhat limited with the stock geometry, but I think I remember you recommended puting some negative camber in it?
Thanks.
Derek69SS said
Apr 9, 2012
Camber: - 0.25deg Caster: + as much as possible, and equal on both sides (likely around +2 deg) Toe: 1/8" IN
It's completely backward from stock specs, but this will be better.
SShink said
Apr 9, 2012
Got it. Thanks!
Taking it in Wed. night for the alignment. Picked up the speedo adaptor to go in line with the 200-4R to adjust for the 3.42 gears today, so the check list is getting very short now!
jim larson said
Apr 13, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
Camber: - 0.25deg Caster: + as much as possible, and equal on both sides (likely around +2 deg) Toe: 1/8" IN
It's completely backward from stock specs, but this will be better.
Is this the same if you are using bias tires?
Derek69SS said
Apr 13, 2012
It would work with bias tires too... the only reason to run the factory specs is if you don't have Power Steering, as the + Caster would increase steering effort.
For a car like yours though that you want to look correct, you might want to stick with factory specs just so you don't see a big stack of shims on the back side of the upper A-arm cross shaft. It is pretty obvious when you align for + caster, especially if your shims are new and shiny.
jim larson said
Apr 13, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
It would work with bias tires too... the only reason to run the factory specs is if you don't have Power Steering, as the + Caster would increase steering effort.
For a car like yours though that you want to look correct, you might want to stick with factory specs just so you don't see a big stack of shims on the back side of the upper A-arm cross shaft. It is pretty obvious when you align for + caster, especially if your shims are new and shiny.
Thanks Derek. I have the Power Steering. I changed to the positive caster about 2 yrs ago. I could not nice any difference in steering effort.
Yes those new shinny shims look a little odd with a big stack in the back and a single shim in the front.
Maybe I should go back with the -.5 factory caster. Really don't think I could tell if it turns any easier.
I am thinking about try to change the steering ratio and effort by doinging something like a JGC conversion. Have you seen my post on that either here or on TC?
Derek69SS said
Apr 13, 2012
Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.
I would stay with the + caster alignment, as it's better for tire wear. To run - caster, you have to run a lot more toe-in for stability, which wears the tires more.
SShink said
Apr 13, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.
If Jim isn't interested, let me know. Now that the car is handling more firmly, I can tell the steering box ratio is the next weak link... assuming it would work with a BBC.
jim larson said
Apr 13, 2012
Derek69SS wrote:
Jim, I have a complete JGC setup (except the metric fitting adapters) if you're interested.
I would stay with the + caster alignment, as it's better for tire wear. To run - caster, you have to run a lot more toe-in for stability, which wears the tires more.
I am just not sure I want to put in a Jeep box as you can see if you check out my post on the project section. So maybe Stan can use it. If you have the rag joint for the 3/4" shaft, that should work with his 72 steering shaft according to what I have read. And I think I read that they started to use the 1400lb pressure valve in the pumps sometime in 1970. All he would need is the Lee adaptors.
After putting in the 1" Hotchkis lowering springs and Bilstein shocks, the Chevelle is riding/handling great, but I need to get it in for a front end alignment since the spring install may have changed things.
Derek-You gave me some alignment recommendations a couple of years ago for the white '71 Chevelle I had at the time. Can you list those again for stock arms and the 1" lowering springs?
I know it's somewhat limited with the stock geometry, but I think I remember you recommended puting some negative camber in it?
Thanks.
Caster: + as much as possible, and equal on both sides (likely around +2 deg)
Toe: 1/8" IN
It's completely backward from stock specs, but this will be better.
Got it. Thanks!
Taking it in Wed. night for the alignment. Picked up the speedo adaptor to go in line with the 200-4R to adjust for the 3.42 gears today, so the check list is getting very short now!
Is this the same if you are using bias tires?
For a car like yours though that you want to look correct, you might want to stick with factory specs just so you don't see a big stack of shims on the back side of the upper A-arm cross shaft. It is pretty obvious when you align for + caster, especially if your shims are new and shiny.
Thanks Derek. I have the Power Steering. I changed to the positive caster about 2 yrs ago. I could not nice any difference in steering effort.
Yes those new shinny shims look a little odd with a big stack in the back and a single shim in the front.
Maybe I should go back with the -.5 factory caster. Really don't think I could tell if it turns any easier.
I am thinking about try to change the steering ratio and effort by doinging something like a JGC conversion. Have you seen my post on that either here or on TC?
I would stay with the + caster alignment, as it's better for tire wear. To run - caster, you have to run a lot more toe-in for stability, which wears the tires more.
If Jim isn't interested, let me know. Now that the car is handling more firmly, I can tell the steering box ratio is the next weak link... assuming it would work with a BBC.
I am just not sure I want to put in a Jeep box as you can see if you check out my post on the project section. So maybe Stan can use it. If you have the rag joint for the 3/4" shaft, that should work with his 72 steering shaft according to what I have read. And I think I read that they started to use the 1400lb pressure valve in the pumps sometime in 1970. All he would need is the Lee adaptors.