The slicks are 10" wide, so I think they would fit under the fenders on a stock '72 (mine). I'm guessing the rims are 15 X 10's looking at the depth of them in the pic. I don't want to have to do any inner fender work to make slicks fit.
I also found these that are 26 X 8.5 X 15's. Kind of hard to tell how much rubber is left from the pics though. Price is right and they are close to me:
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 11:33:59 PM
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 11:39:01 PM
Bowtieman427 said
Nov 3, 2011
Not 100% SURE, I know Tony runs Hoosier 28 x 9.0 / 15 slicks for the strip and I know 275 60 r15 will work. I think about 28" x 8.5-9" on 8-8.5"x15" wheel is about it in a stock setup. Not sure if you go 10" wheel or if you play with back spacing. I think on a 8-8.5" 4.5-4 7/8" on wheel may work. Other things to consider if you running slick. If you are going tubless or tube screwing wheel down. The 26x8 x15 may work but you may want to consider getting the taller ones with the 4.10 gear We put the 275 60 r15 on Steve S car and they actully rubbed a little bumps in street. They were fine at the track. There are some posts on TC that talk about sizes but some people have rooled the lip up ont he rear fender.
I know many run M/T 3055S 15x10" wheel Section 11.7"x tread 10.0 x height 28.1 not sure of back space or if there are running stock rear arms or if they rolled the fender lip.
bowtie said
Nov 3, 2011
The issue might be backspacing and rubbing depending on rim. 26" should be no problem at all. The slicks are measured at only the tread width, so it will balloon out farther than the marking. street tires like ET Streets are measured at sidewall width. I just mounted one each Hoosier slick and an ET Street on my new Vector wheels and they are about the same width even though the Hoosier is a 30x10.5 and the ET is 28x12.5. (BTW, the Hoosier is really ballooned out on the 8.5" rim, but it's just for mocking up on my car).
Tony has a good setup, and a 275/60R15 should tuck under nicely with the right rims.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 3, 2011
I have a pair of M/T 26x8.5X15s that I ran on the '66 last weekend. There is room for a LOT more tire in my wheel well, but it is different than a '68-72. You're welcome to use them for research, as I won't use them until next year again. They are mounted on stock 15X7 Rally wheels and they do bulge. They really need a 8" wheel to lay flat.
I agree the 29" tall would work better with your gearing and a 10" wide tire will fit easily on the right wheel.
Tony probably has about the ideal set up at 28X9.
frank said
Nov 3, 2011
i have a 275 / 60 / r15 off the rim if you want to try it
Bowtieman427 said
Nov 3, 2011
Maybe check this out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2683768248.html
SShink said
Nov 3, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Maybe check this out http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2683768248.html
Thanks Jim. I'm afraid the 10.5's would be too wide though, and I'd have to roll the fender edge, which I don't want to do.
I did get an email back from the ones in Eagan (26 X 8.5 X 15) that they have 7 passes on them, but they are around 5 years old. They also need new tubes.
Does anyone know if the rubber in slicks harden over time?
If they have been stored inside, they should be fine. I don't have tubes in my slicks, nor does Tony. I need to screw mine to the wheels tho, as it appears they did walk a small amount.
Dave Seitz said
Nov 3, 2011
Stan just a few quick things for you. 1.Rubber DOES harden with age and heat cycles, natural or synthetic compounds does not matter. If these are to old they can blow at speed and cause damage to you and car.
2.Do you REALLY NEED slicks? You additionaly need a driveshaft loop and make sure rear suspension is up to snuff. If traction is the last issue to getting down the track for that last .01 to win the race then go ahead.
3.Can you just use a street slick DOT tire? One member will use a Blizzak winter tire for the snow drift that may suddenly appear on the track. I will not reveal his name or the LT1 Elky he drives.
4.Do you have another set of rims just for those tires, or is this just one of those "hey they are cheap I'll try running slicks"
Not trying to be a jerk, that comes easy for me. Just asking so you don't waste money that you could donate to other things or me.
SShink said
Nov 4, 2011
Dave Seitz wrote:
Stan just a few quick things for you. 1.Rubber DOES harden with age and heat cycles, natural or synthetic compounds does not matter. If these are to old they can blow at speed and cause damage to you and car.
2.Do you REALLY NEED slicks? You additionaly need a driveshaft loop and make sure rear suspension is up to snuff. If traction is the last issue to getting down the track for that last .01 to win the race then go ahead.
3.Can you just use a street slick DOT tire? One member will use a Blizzak winter tire for the snow drift that may suddenly appear on the track. I will not reveal his name or the LT1 Elky he drives.
4.Do you have another set of rims just for those tires, or is this just one of those "hey they are cheap I'll try running slicks"
Not trying to be a jerk, that comes easy for me. Just asking so you don't waste money that you could donate to other things or me.
Hey Dave, all good questions. I had no traction at all with the BF TA's on the track. I tried walking it out of the hole, then hitting it hard and it would still break both tires loose. The TA's are over 10 years old... so I'm sure they are on the hard side and not that good even when new for traction.
The snow tire idea is not bad as they are a much softer compound and are stickier. I know they work for a certain Elky as well.
If I find a pair of slicks, they will have their own rims. Probably steel rims to help with the rotational mass/slippage as well?
I don't think I need a driveshaft loop until it gets in the 11's? This Chevelle will be on the track 1-2 times/year, so I don't want to hack up the frame for a loop.
bowtie said
Nov 4, 2011
I would still look into a loop. If you do get traction, the U-joint would be a weak point. If it breaks, you could then become a vehicular pole vaulter. Tony/Frank/Steve/Darren might know if it's a NHRA or track requirement for running slicks.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 4, 2011
bowtie wrote:
I would still look into a loop. If you do get traction, the U-joint would be a weak point. If it breaks, you could then become a vehicular pole vaulter. Tony/Frank/Steve/Darren might know if it's a NHRA or track requirement for running slicks.
Pretty sure the loop is dependant on ET. I had slicks on and they never questioned, or looked for a loop, but then my car doesn't look as fast as Stan's...
In my humble opinion, TA's are some of the worst traction tires around. I had a set on my IROC and took them off right away because I couldn't keep the car on the road. Cornering was just as slippery as acceleration traction. I have Firestone Indy 500's on the '66 and the traction is pretty good off the line, if I don't floor it, but the slicks are much better. I have thrown the '66 into freeway ramps at 10 over suggested and it just goes around without drifting. The TA's on my IROC would break loose at posted and the car would drift. NOT a good feeling.
You will benefit greatly from the traction of slicks with the gearing you have.
Tony Hoffer said
Nov 4, 2011
My $.02
I would stay away from used slicks from a source I wasnt totally confident with....
slicks can get ruined by freezing as well as overheating.. also the sidewalls give out and they dont "work" as well...
A nice new pair of Hoosiers from http://www.tracksidetire.com/ will probably run you $350.. so you would have to weight your own cost to benefit ratio there... Some folks manage to get the 10 and 12" slick to fit and I know it would never happen on my car.. but our rides are 40 years old or older now.. accidents and body sitting on frame correctly all add to the equation..
As to the driveshaft loop.. unless you never intend to accelerate full throttle Id have one.. its simply cheap insurance.. I made a simple one by cutting off a 2" long piece of .25 x5" tubing and a couple of short pieces of 2" by .25" flat and welded them to the existing floorpan support rail
-- Edited by Tony Hoffer on Friday 4th of November 2011 12:31:42 PM
Tony Hoffer said
Nov 4, 2011
Beginning Jan 1, 2005, a rollbar and an SFI 16.1 driver restraint system will be mandatory on any vehicle running 11.49 or quicker and for convertibles running 13.49 or quicker. An SFI 3.2A jacket will be mandatory for all drivers running between 10.00 an 11.49 seconds. On any car running 11.49 or quicker, a flywheel and clutch meeting SFI spec 1.1 or 1.2 and a flywheel shield meeting SFI spec 6.1,6.2,6.3,or 9.1 will be mandatory. A driveshaft loop will be required on all cars running 13.99 or quicker and utilizing slicks, except vehicles equipped with street tires running 11.49 or slower.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 4, 2011
Hmmm..........that new loop ruling will affect many of us. I am looking to break into the high 13's next year. Don't think I need to worry about the clutch regulations.
SShink said
Nov 4, 2011
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
Tony-You probably gave the best advice that made me think about if I really want to buy and store slicks for only 1-2 times a year. At this point, I think I'll hold off buying and and see if I could borrow someone's at the next club drag race event for a couple of runs, and see what my best time can be and leave it at that.
I did have a blast getting on the track this year though!
Bowtieman427 said
Nov 4, 2011
You can get a loop for $20-25 out of Jegs. they were just on sale not a big deal and not to bad to put in. I had to rework mine as I have an OD unit. I would get loop on. Also if you are not running slicks or have traction at the Strip with our cars it is probable not all that fun. Like Mitch states regular street tires do not cut it. For exaple this really happend Steve S ran 13.3-4 with street radial BFG TA with BFG street drag radial he ran 12.1-2. That is a whole second faster. I think Chevelles are big and heavy and engines create a lot of torque to get it moving. If you do not have traction you will just spin on luanch. I can understand wanting a set of dedicated slicks for the track. It is not about going .01s faster it is about 1s faster.
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/pts/2682286895.html
The slicks are 10" wide, so I think they would fit under the fenders on a stock '72 (mine).
I'm guessing the rims are 15 X 10's looking at the depth of them in the pic. I don't want to have to do any inner fender work to make slicks fit.
I also found these that are 26 X 8.5 X 15's. Kind of hard to tell how much rubber is left from the pics though. Price is right and they are close to me:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/pts/2646752876.html
And these that are 9" wide, but 29" tall, that might be too tall?
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2670584260.html
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 11:33:59 PM
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 11:39:01 PM
Other things to consider if you running slick. If you are going tubless or tube screwing wheel down. The 26x8 x15 may work but you may want to consider getting the taller ones with the 4.10 gear
We put the 275 60 r15 on Steve S car and they actully rubbed a little bumps in street. They were fine at the track.
There are some posts on TC that talk about sizes but some people have rooled the lip up ont he rear fender.
I know many run M/T 3055S 15x10" wheel Section 11.7"x tread 10.0 x height 28.1 not sure of back space or if there are running stock rear arms or if they rolled the fender lip.
Tony has a good setup, and a 275/60R15 should tuck under nicely with the right rims.
I have a pair of M/T 26x8.5X15s that I ran on the '66 last weekend. There is room for a LOT more tire in my wheel well, but it is different than a '68-72. You're welcome to use them for research, as I won't use them until next year again. They are mounted on stock 15X7 Rally wheels and they do bulge. They really need a 8" wheel to lay flat.
I agree the 29" tall would work better with your gearing and a 10" wide tire will fit easily on the right wheel.
Tony probably has about the ideal set up at 28X9.
i have a 275 / 60 / r15 off the rim if you want to try it
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2683768248.html
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/pts/2683768248.html
Thanks Jim. I'm afraid the 10.5's would be too wide though, and I'd have to roll the fender edge, which I don't want to do.
I did get an email back from the ones in Eagan (26 X 8.5 X 15) that they have 7 passes on them, but they are around 5 years old. They also need new tubes.
Does anyone know if the rubber in slicks harden over time?
Here's the link:
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/pts/2646752876.html
If they have been stored inside, they should be fine. I don't have tubes in my slicks, nor does Tony. I need to screw mine to the wheels tho, as it appears they did walk a small amount.
1.Rubber DOES harden with age and heat cycles, natural or synthetic compounds does not matter. If these are to old they can blow at speed and cause damage to you and car.
2.Do you REALLY NEED slicks? You additionaly need a driveshaft loop and make sure rear suspension is up to snuff. If traction is the last issue to getting down the track for that last .01 to win the race then go ahead.
3.Can you just use a street slick DOT tire? One member will use a Blizzak winter tire for the snow drift that may suddenly appear on the track. I will not reveal his name or the LT1 Elky he drives.
4.Do you have another set of rims just for those tires, or is this just one of those "hey they are cheap I'll try running slicks"
Not trying to be a jerk, that comes easy for me. Just asking so you don't waste money that you could donate to other things or me.
Hey Dave, all good questions. I had no traction at all with the BF TA's on the track. I tried walking it out of the hole, then hitting it hard and it would still break both tires loose. The TA's are over 10 years old... so I'm sure they are on the hard side and not that good even when new for traction.
The snow tire idea is not bad as they are a much softer compound and are stickier. I know they work for a certain Elky as well.
If I find a pair of slicks, they will have their own rims. Probably steel rims to help with the rotational mass/slippage as well?
I don't think I need a driveshaft loop until it gets in the 11's? This Chevelle will be on the track 1-2 times/year, so I don't want to hack up the frame for a loop.
I would stay away from used slicks from a source I wasnt totally confident with....
slicks can get ruined by freezing as well as overheating.. also the sidewalls give out and they dont "work" as well...
A nice new pair of Hoosiers from http://www.tracksidetire.com/ will probably run you $350.. so you would have to weight your own cost to benefit ratio there... Some folks manage to get the 10 and 12" slick to fit and I know it would never happen on my car.. but our rides are 40 years old or older now.. accidents and body sitting on frame correctly all add to the equation..
As to the driveshaft loop.. unless you never intend to accelerate full throttle Id have one.. its simply cheap insurance.. I made a simple one by cutting off a 2" long piece of .25 x5" tubing and a couple of short pieces of 2" by .25" flat and welded them to the existing floorpan support rail
-- Edited by Tony Hoffer on Friday 4th of November 2011 12:31:42 PM
Hmmm..........that new loop ruling will affect many of us. I am looking to break into the high 13's next year. Don't think I need to worry about the clutch regulations.
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
Tony-You probably gave the best advice that made me think about if I really want to buy and store slicks for only 1-2 times a year. At this point, I think I'll hold off buying and and see if I could borrow someone's at the next club drag race event for a couple of runs, and see what my best time can be and leave it at that.
I did have a blast getting on the track this year though!
You can get a loop for $20-25 out of Jegs. they were just on sale not a big deal and not to bad to put in. I had to rework mine as I have an OD unit. I would get loop on. Also if you are not running slicks or have traction at the Strip with our cars it is probable not all that fun. Like Mitch states regular street tires do not cut it. For exaple this really happend
Steve S ran 13.3-4 with street radial BFG TA with BFG street drag radial he ran 12.1-2. That is a whole second faster. I think Chevelles are big and heavy and engines create a lot of torque to get it moving. If you do not have traction you will just spin on luanch.
I can understand wanting a set of dedicated slicks for the track. It is not about going .01s faster it is about 1s faster.
On the TC site
http://www.chevelles.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=49264&cat=6
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Saturday 5th of November 2011 01:54:20 PM