Ok so I fiqured it was about time I took some pictures of what I have been working on instead of my darn cars. What started as just a rear end swap turned into change to an auto transmission, weld in side motor mounts, install transmission cross member and rebuild a stock steering column to shift the automatic.
So I put in the side motor mounts with the manual transmission still in so the motor was sitting correctly. Then removed the manual and here is the 700r4 bolted up so I could get the crossmember position and welded in brackets on the frame.
-- Edited by 67ss on Sunday 4th of September 2011 02:10:36 PM
This is the 74 nova 8.5 10 bolt that is the exact same width as the stock rear end. It will have 3.42 gears and a factory auburn posi when it is all done. Had it blasted and painted to make it look pretty. Had the driveshaft shortened by proven force in arden hills.
And last how many steering columns does it take to make one, the answer is three. Here is all the pieces that will make one good one eventually. We also got a wider brake pedal from a 56 to go with the automatic transmission, not technically correct but I think it will look better.
So why am I doing all this? The muncie that came out of this car is going into my chevelle over the winter. Running the casting number on the muncie it is a 65-66 so how perfect is that.
bowtie said
Sep 4, 2011
This is also the car that toasted the rear end at last summer's BBQ up at Chris's.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 4, 2011
bowtie wrote:
This is also the car that toasted the rear end at last summer's BBQ up at Chris's.
That would explain why Chris gets to fix it.....it probably never left after that...
bwild70ss396 said
Sep 5, 2011
Where did you get the motor and trans mounts? They are different then the ones I have? My column I shortened and put a smooth collar on it for a floor shift. Those columns have alot of sloppy moving parts
Derek69SS said
Sep 5, 2011
Taking a 4spd out for an automatic? Isn't there some kind of law against that?
67ss said
Sep 5, 2011
bwild70ss396 wrote:
Where did you get the motor and trans mounts? They are different then the ones I have? My column I shortened and put a smooth collar on it for a floor shift. Those columns have alot of sloppy moving parts
Yea these columns are really POS's I am in the process of putting it back together. Hopefully it all works when it's all done.
Derek that has been said by more then one person. But he is building this for his significant other to drive so that is why the automatic is going in.
Chris R said
Sep 6, 2011
Stan wrote that law a few years ago.
Bungy L-76 said
Sep 6, 2011
Well, he is replacing a 4 spd with a 4 spd if that helps.
Also the 64-65 Muncie cases ended in 1325 and the 66-67 ended in 010.
67ss said
Sep 6, 2011
Bungy L-76 wrote:
Well, he is replacing a 4 spd with a 4 spd if that helps.
Also the 64-65 Muncie cases ended in 1325 and the 66-67 ended in 010.
Thanks for the clarification, it ends in 010 so its 66-67.
67ss said
Sep 25, 2011
Making some progress, got the gears setup, put in the moser axles, and installed all the brake parts. Slipped it back under the car and bolted it all in and adjusted the e- brake to make sure it would work.
Next is to remove the motor and transmission so the transmission can be rebuilt. That will also give me the room to finish welding the motor mounts. Then into storage to be put back together in the spring.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 25, 2011
Then you start on the '66 as a winter project ??
67ss said
Sep 25, 2011
The camaro gets fixed first. I bought a different (bigger) supercharger for it, so I want to get it going first. Then it will be the chevelle next. But yes my hope is they will both be ready for spring.
67ss said
Oct 9, 2012
Motor is on the running stand and ready to fire tomorrow to break the cam in and make sure everything is good.
Nice looking engine and that stand is the shiznits...
SShink said
Oct 9, 2012
67ss wrote:
Motor is on the running stand and ready to fire tomorrow to break the cam in and make sure everything is good.
Chris, I may have missed it, but what is that engine setup? 283, 350?
67ss said
Oct 9, 2012
SShink wrote:
Chris, I may have missed it, but what is that engine setup? 283, 350?
It is a 355, with forged flat top pistons,balanced rotating assembly, 0 and sqaure decked block. Heads are 041 casting small chamber with 1.94/1.60 valves and have some pretty extensive porting work done on them. Cam is a lunati 60102 219/227 duration with 1.55 rocker arms putting lift at 483/505. I figure horse power numbers to be in the 350-375 range. I would like to dyno it but I don't think he wants to spend the money.
67ss said
Oct 10, 2012
Yes but things did not go as well as hoped. I should know better to not use chrome engine parts. The oil pan and timing cover are leaking. They are getting removed and thrown away. The chinese knock off intake did not seal up to the heads correctly causing a vacuum leak. Lastly his pertronix distributor conversion died at the end, but I think I may have killed it accidently so I had to order a new one of those today. I just keep saying that at least it is not in the car and then having to pull it back out. I will get everything resealed and fire it up again to make sure all is well before it goes in. Mechanically the motor itself sounded great no noises or anything and had good oil pressure.
-- Edited by 67ss on Wednesday 10th of October 2012 04:00:55 PM
dashboard said
Oct 10, 2012
So.............did ya fire that bad boy up?
dashboard said
Oct 11, 2012
Exactly the purpose of the test stand. I’d say it’s paid for itself already, just think if it had been in the car. Good news is, the engine is sound.
bowtie said
Oct 11, 2012
I'm with Kevin. That test stand already saved you a ton of hassle.
dashboard said
Oct 11, 2012
How did you come across the test stand? I’ve been checking CL and never see one.
Did you have to do much to it to make it serviceable? Would you conceder renting it out?
I know, I know, so many questions; I want to run this LS1 engine on a stand before I install it.
Scott Parkhurst said
Oct 11, 2012
I've got a decent intake and timing cover if you need them...
Derek69SS said
Oct 11, 2012
Kevin, if you want to build a stand, I've got a radiator for you... heavy 4-row, but it's not as wide as a Chevelle.
Perfect for a stand because I have no idea what it fits, but it's too nice to scrap for the copper.
67ss said
Oct 11, 2012
dashboard wrote:
How did you come across the test stand? I’ve been checking CL and never see one.
Did you have to do much to it to make it serviceable? Would you conceder renting it out?
I know, I know, so many questions; I want to run this LS1 engine on a stand before I install it.
I stumbled across it on craigslist a while back, I don't see them on there very often. When I get all the bugs out of this motor you are welcome to borrow it to mock up your ls on it. I should not need it for awhile, I don't think I will be getting the 327 for the chevelle done for awhile. Will have to come up with a way to get your electric pump hooked into the fuel system. I can help add a few more wires into the stand to run the computer and such should not be to difficult.
Scott I rechecked the intake and I should be able to make it work. Just have to be very careful when I set it on to make sure it is perfectly centered. I have a timing cover I was going to use and then talked my self out of it, but thanks for the offer.
dashboard said
Oct 11, 2012
If I knew how to weld, had the equipment and the space it would be a fun project. But don’t give up that radiator just yet.
Chris, what instruments are on the control panel?
I could set the new tank with fuel pump off to the side and just ground it back to the stand frame. I plan on getting a stand alone harness with a computer preprogrammed for the L33. I’d like to use or somehow functionally test my fan setup for both temp and AC operation.
In a nut shell Id like to be able to operationally check everything on a stand prior to installation. Perhaps it could be a tech session in March or April.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 11, 2012
67ss wrote:
I have a timing cover I was going to use and then talked my self out of it.
Don't ya hate it when ignoring your instinct backfires ??
I KNEW I shouldn't have gone to TN for that '38 but I "hoped" it would turn out OK..
I'm gonna start paying attention to my gut feeling more often...
67ss said
Oct 11, 2012
dashboard wrote:
Chris, what instruments are on the control panel?
I could set the new tank with fuel pump off to the side and just ground it back to the stand frame. I plan on getting a stand alone harness with a computer preprogrammed for the L33. I’d like to use or somehow functionally test my fan setup for both temp and AC operation.
In a nut shell Id like to be able to operationally check everything on a stand prior to installation. Perhaps it could be a tech session in March or April.
The gauge panel has temp, oil, volt, vacuum, and tach. There is a lighted switch for ignition coil power and a lighted switch for cooling fan. I can set up an ignition power feed to go to the ECM and the injectors for you. Setting the tank off to the side should work just fine and run wires over to it. The fan could be rewired to the ecm to test fan temp turn on and off points easily.
Mitch
Don't know why I did not listen to the voice in my head on the chrome stuff. Will not happen ever again though.
67ss said
Oct 18, 2012
Made some progress this week. Got the front suspension back in with the disc brake kit. Power steering box rag joint and steering column all fitted. Last version 2.0 on motor break in again. Went much better no vacuum leaks and no oil leaks so far. Took out the break in valve springs and rocker arms and installed the final ones. Fired it up again to make sure all quite and still running ok.
Few more pictures of some progress. Motor and transmission are all bolted in. Now just working on getting everything hooked back up on the motor. Had to order a flexible dipstick tube as there is no room behind the engine for it to come up, should be here by end of the week.
Quite the ordeal for starting out to just repair the rear axle so he could get it home...
67ss said
Oct 25, 2012
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Quite the ordeal for starting out to just repair the rear axle so he could get it home...
Some of it is my fault as I wanted the muncie out of it for my chevelle. So I helped start the chain of events. But I was not expecting to have to rebuild the whole engine. Thought it was just going to be a cam and head swap. Once it is done he should not have to touch anything for a long time and be able to enjoy it without breaking anything.
bowtie said
Oct 25, 2012
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Quite the ordeal for starting out to just repair the rear axle so he could get it home...
That was after breaking the rear axle doing a burnout at Chris's fall BBQ up there a couple years back.
67ss said
Dec 28, 2012
The day is finally is coming. New years day for sure but maybe this weekend even it is going to be started up and breath some life again. Been able to work on it and getting the last things buttoned up on it next couple of days. Will try and get some updated pic's though the underhood does not look much different other then swapping to a long water pump setup.
Lost in the 60s said
Dec 28, 2012
Good to hear, Chris. I'm sure you'll be happy to get that car out of your hair...
67ss said
Jan 2, 2013
Got it fired up and everything is good with the motor, cooling system, and all the rewiring I did. Now its time to go back to the brakes and figure out why the pedal feels like crap. First I need to warranty the proportioning valve as it is leaking. Hopeing that is the main cause but will have to see. Camera battery is dead still working on new pics.
67ss said
Jan 7, 2013
Finally got the pic's. Dash now has a radio and the factory trim across the middle. Mounted the Electric coolant fan controller in the glove box. Picture of the cooling fan mounted to the radiator and an over all engine shot. Relocated the battery up against the radiator support. Makes the firewall look much cleaner.
Chris, does that mean your Chevelle is moving into the heated garage for some work?
dashboard said
Jan 14, 2013
I love that color combo and the wheels really set it off. I would have found it difficult to not go for a quick spin down the street. So, did ya!
67ss said
Jan 14, 2013
Stan, I have some other things I need to catch up on before the chevelle makes it's way up to the garage. Wife has some honey do list things I have been putting off.
Kevin, it was very tempting to go drive it but we had a light snow dusting yesterday so the roads were not dry. Plus the alignment is way off now because of the new spindles. First thing come spring load it on the trailer and take it to the alignment shop.
67ss said
May 14, 2013
Dug it out of moth balls this weekend. Installed a front sway bar on it and is headed to the alignment shop Wednesday. Hope to put some miles on it this weekend and work out any last bugs it might have.
Lost in the 60s said
May 14, 2013
67ss wrote:
Dug it out of moth balls this weekend. Installed a front sway bar on it and is headed to the alignment shop Wednesday. Hope to put some miles on it this weekend and work out any last bugs it might have.
It will be really nice to have that out of your way....
Then it's start on the Chevelle engine build-up time, eh...
Ok so I fiqured it was about time I took some pictures of what I have been working on instead of my darn cars. What started as just a rear end swap turned into change to an auto transmission, weld in side motor mounts, install transmission cross member and rebuild a stock steering column to shift the automatic.
So I put in the side motor mounts with the manual transmission still in so the motor was sitting correctly. Then removed the manual and here is the 700r4 bolted up so I could get the crossmember position and welded in brackets on the frame.
-- Edited by 67ss on Sunday 4th of September 2011 02:10:36 PM
This is the 74 nova 8.5 10 bolt that is the exact same width as the stock rear end. It will have 3.42 gears and a factory auburn posi when it is all done. Had it blasted and painted to make it look pretty. Had the driveshaft shortened by proven force in arden hills.
And last how many steering columns does it take to make one, the answer is three. Here is all the pieces that will make one good one eventually. We also got a wider brake pedal from a 56 to go with the automatic transmission, not technically correct but I think it will look better.
So why am I doing all this? The muncie that came out of this car is going into my chevelle over the winter. Running the casting number on the muncie it is a 65-66 so how perfect is that.
Taking a 4spd out for an automatic? Isn't there some kind of law against that?
I got them from here http://www.williamsclassicchassis.com/new/ I am super impressed with the quality of there stuff.
Yea these columns are really POS's I am in the process of putting it back together. Hopefully it all works when it's all done.
Derek that has been said by more then one person. But he is building this for his significant other to drive so that is why the automatic is going in.
Stan wrote that law a few years ago.
Well, he is replacing a 4 spd with a 4 spd if that helps.
Also the 64-65 Muncie cases ended in 1325 and the 66-67 ended in 010.
Thanks for the clarification, it ends in 010 so its 66-67.
Making some progress, got the gears setup, put in the moser axles, and installed all the brake parts. Slipped it back under the car and bolted it all in and adjusted the e- brake to make sure it would work.
Next is to remove the motor and transmission so the transmission can be rebuilt. That will also give me the room to finish welding the motor mounts. Then into storage to be put back together in the spring.
Then you start on the '66 as a winter project ??
The camaro gets fixed first. I bought a different (bigger) supercharger for it, so I want to get it going first. Then it will be the chevelle next. But yes my hope is they will both be ready for spring.
Motor is on the running stand and ready to fire tomorrow to break the cam in and make sure everything is good.
Nice looking engine and that stand is the shiznits...
Chris, I may have missed it, but what is that engine setup? 283, 350?
It is a 355, with forged flat top pistons,balanced rotating assembly, 0 and sqaure decked block. Heads are 041 casting small chamber with 1.94/1.60 valves and have some pretty extensive porting work done on them. Cam is a lunati 60102 219/227 duration with 1.55 rocker arms putting lift at 483/505. I figure horse power numbers to be in the 350-375 range. I would like to dyno it but I don't think he wants to spend the money.
Yes but things did not go as well as hoped. I should know better to not use chrome engine parts. The oil pan and timing cover are leaking. They are getting removed and thrown away. The chinese knock off intake did not seal up to the heads correctly causing a vacuum leak. Lastly his pertronix distributor conversion died at the end, but I think I may have killed it accidently so I had to order a new one of those today. I just keep saying that at least it is not in the car and then having to pull it back out. I will get everything resealed and fire it up again to make sure all is well before it goes in. Mechanically the motor itself sounded great no noises or anything and had good oil pressure.
-- Edited by 67ss on Wednesday 10th of October 2012 04:00:55 PM
So.............did ya fire that bad boy up?
Exactly the purpose of the test stand. I’d say it’s paid for itself already, just think if it had been in the car. Good news is, the engine is sound.
How did you come across the test stand? I’ve been checking CL and never see one.
Did you have to do much to it to make it serviceable? Would you conceder renting it out?
I know, I know, so many questions; I want to run this LS1 engine on a stand before I install it.
Perfect for a stand because I have no idea what it fits, but it's too nice to scrap for the copper.
I stumbled across it on craigslist a while back, I don't see them on there very often. When I get all the bugs out of this motor you are welcome to borrow it to mock up your ls on it. I should not need it for awhile, I don't think I will be getting the 327 for the chevelle done for awhile. Will have to come up with a way to get your electric pump hooked into the fuel system. I can help add a few more wires into the stand to run the computer and such should not be to difficult.
Scott I rechecked the intake and I should be able to make it work. Just have to be very careful when I set it on to make sure it is perfectly centered. I have a timing cover I was going to use and then talked my self out of it, but thanks for the offer.
If I knew how to weld, had the equipment and the space it would be a fun project. But don’t give up that radiator just yet.
Chris, what instruments are on the control panel?
I could set the new tank with fuel pump off to the side and just ground it back to the stand frame. I plan on getting a stand alone harness with a computer preprogrammed for the L33. I’d like to use or somehow functionally test my fan setup for both temp and AC operation.
In a nut shell Id like to be able to operationally check everything on a stand prior to installation. Perhaps it could be a tech session in March or April.
Don't ya hate it when ignoring your instinct backfires ??
I KNEW I shouldn't have gone to TN for that '38 but I "hoped" it would turn out OK..
I'm gonna start paying attention to my gut feeling more often...
The gauge panel has temp, oil, volt, vacuum, and tach. There is a lighted switch for ignition coil power and a lighted switch for cooling fan. I can set up an ignition power feed to go to the ECM and the injectors for you. Setting the tank off to the side should work just fine and run wires over to it. The fan could be rewired to the ecm to test fan temp turn on and off points easily.
Mitch
Don't know why I did not listen to the voice in my head on the chrome stuff. Will not happen ever again though.
Made some progress this week. Got the front suspension back in with the disc brake kit. Power steering box rag joint and steering column all fitted. Last version 2.0 on motor break in again. Went much better no vacuum leaks and no oil leaks so far. Took out the break in valve springs and rocker arms and installed the final ones. Fired it up again to make sure all quite and still running ok.
Few more pictures of some progress. Motor and transmission are all bolted in. Now just working on getting everything hooked back up on the motor. Had to order a flexible dipstick tube as there is no room behind the engine for it to come up, should be here by end of the week.
Quite the ordeal for starting out to just repair the rear axle so he could get it home...
Some of it is my fault as I wanted the muncie out of it for my chevelle. So I helped start the chain of events. But I was not expecting to have to rebuild the whole engine. Thought it was just going to be a cam and head swap. Once it is done he should not have to touch anything for a long time and be able to enjoy it without breaking anything.
That was after breaking the rear axle doing a burnout at Chris's fall BBQ up there a couple years back.
The day is finally is coming. New years day for sure but maybe this weekend even it is going to be started up and breath some life again. Been able to work on it and getting the last things buttoned up on it next couple of days. Will try and get some updated pic's though the underhood does not look much different other then swapping to a long water pump setup.
Good to hear, Chris. I'm sure you'll be happy to get that car out of your hair...
Got it fired up and everything is good with the motor, cooling system, and all the rewiring I did. Now its time to go back to the brakes and figure out why the pedal feels like crap. First I need to warranty the proportioning valve as it is leaking. Hopeing that is the main cause but will have to see. Camera battery is dead still working on new pics.
Finally got the pic's. Dash now has a radio and the factory trim across the middle. Mounted the Electric coolant fan controller in the glove box. Picture of the cooling fan mounted to the radiator and an over all engine shot. Relocated the battery up against the radiator support. Makes the firewall look much cleaner.
Looks great, Chris. He should be very happy...
It moved under it's own power today from the garage to the shed.
Chris, does that mean your Chevelle is moving into the heated garage for some work?
I would have found it difficult to not go for a quick spin down the street. So, did ya!
Stan, I have some other things I need to catch up on before the chevelle makes it's way up to the garage. Wife has some honey do list things I have been putting off.
Kevin, it was very tempting to go drive it but we had a light snow dusting yesterday so the roads were not dry. Plus the alignment is way off now because of the new spindles. First thing come spring load it on the trailer and take it to the alignment shop.
Dug it out of moth balls this weekend. Installed a front sway bar on it and is headed to the alignment shop Wednesday. Hope to put some miles on it this weekend and work out any last bugs it might have.
It will be really nice to have that out of your way....
Then it's start on the Chevelle engine build-up time, eh...