Looking for tips about cleaning and storing a block?
jim larson said
Jul 29, 2011
IPicked up an old bb this summer for a possible future project. Did a preliminary cleaning and just got if back from the machine shop where it was jet cleaned and maged.
Everything good, no cracks. Look like all that would be needed is a bore, hone the lifter and main bores, etc.
Got It home and I want to clean it up as best I can and store it. Any tips on cleaning would be appreciated. Is there any way to get some of the rust out of the water jackets? After cleaning how should I treat and store it.
John D said
Jul 29, 2011
Back in another life I was an automotive machinist, and back when cleaning solvents and chemicals still had the "nasty" stuff in them we offered a de-rusting service. The block was immersed in a HOT caustic solution that pretty much chewed the rust loose. Then it was blasted in a rotating spray cabinet. The block & heads would come out like the day they were cast. Check with the machine shop if this is still available.
As far as storing it away I've got a few tips: * Start collecting dessicant bags - those little bags that say "DO NOT EAT" - they come shipped in a lot of stuff. * Put a light smear of engine oil on the mating registers, bolts, and install the main caps. Torque to about 30 ft/lbs. * If it's a machined surface - it gets a smear/coating of wheel bearing grease - and I mean every machined surface inside & out. * After greasing, spray the rest down with machine/engine oil - not WD40 or a penetrant. These will dissolve the grease. * Stick a bunch of the dessicant bags around the block, and wrap it in a heavy duty plastic bag. * Store the block on the bellhousing flange on wood blocks (up off the floor) in an area that doesn't have repeated & rapid heat/cool cycles (condensation).
It'll be a bytch to clean it up when it comes time for "finish/rebuild" machining, but this should save it.
Tony Hoffer said
Jul 29, 2011
Ive used this on the some things in past... Zep ironclad
jim larson said
Jul 31, 2011
The machine stop said to clean it as good as possible for the time being, then they said to spray it with LPS #1 to dispense any moisture, Then after a day or so, spray it down with LPS# 3. After the PLS #3 dries it look like a layer of grease. If storing for more that 2 years, wrap it up in plastic and store it in a place that doesn't change temperature much, like an Air Conditioned garage.
I also asked this in TC. One guy said to clean and paint all outside surfaces and then spray all machined surfaces with LPS #3, wrap in plastic and use plenty of duct tape, Similar to Your suggestions John. Sounds like the Zep product is like Boeshield; a wax product that needs to be re-applied every year according to their site.
I wonder if anyone has ever plugged the water outlets and filed it with a liquid to take away some of the rust in the water cavities. I have heard about filling it with vinegar and letting it sit for a while, then flushing it.
Tony Hoffer said
Jul 31, 2011
The Zep Iron clad is just Like LPS#3.. Ives used both and they both work well.
Dave Seitz said
Jul 31, 2011
Shipping parts overseas we drench the parts in oils or the new stuff is from IMS for long term storage and dries to like a military coating. This is a case of if some is good more is better for coating. My heads that sat for years were sprayed with SeaFoam Deep Creep WD40 and anything else I had around at the time. When I sold them the guys complained it had to much goo on them and would not hold paint without serious cleaning.
dashboard said
Jul 31, 2011
Jim, this is what we used on aircraft parts in the Navy, even protected parts from salt air..
Looks like the Cosmoline, LPS#1&3, and Zep are similar according to their description.
Think I will take your advise and store in the basement, since the temp and humidity is pretty constant as I always run a dehumidifier. Leaning towards a combination of suggestions. Clean & polish all machined surfaces, clean the rest of the surfaces, paint the exposed exterior surfaces, use one of the products to coat all the machined surfaces, and store as John suggested.
Just will use a truck to move the block to the basement. No hurry, after a fishing trip to AK, I hope it will be cooler with less humidity here in MN.
IPicked up an old bb this summer for a possible future project. Did a preliminary cleaning and just got if back from the machine shop where it was jet cleaned and maged.
Everything good, no cracks. Look like all that would be needed is a bore, hone the lifter and main bores, etc.
Got It home and I want to clean it up as best I can and store it. Any tips on cleaning would be appreciated. Is there any way to get some of the rust out of the water jackets? After cleaning how should I treat and store it.
The block was immersed in a HOT caustic solution that pretty much chewed the rust loose. Then it was blasted in a rotating spray cabinet. The block & heads would come out like the day they were cast.
Check with the machine shop if this is still available.
As far as storing it away I've got a few tips:
* Start collecting dessicant bags - those little bags that say "DO NOT EAT" - they come shipped in a lot of stuff.
* Put a light smear of engine oil on the mating registers, bolts, and install the main caps. Torque to about 30 ft/lbs.
* If it's a machined surface - it gets a smear/coating of wheel bearing grease - and I mean every machined surface inside & out.
* After greasing, spray the rest down with machine/engine oil - not WD40 or a penetrant. These will dissolve the grease.
* Stick a bunch of the dessicant bags around the block, and wrap it in a heavy duty plastic bag.
* Store the block on the bellhousing flange on wood blocks (up off the floor) in an area that doesn't have repeated & rapid heat/cool cycles (condensation).
It'll be a bytch to clean it up when it comes time for "finish/rebuild" machining, but this should save it.
After the PLS #3 dries it look like a layer of grease. If storing for more that 2 years, wrap it up in plastic and store it in a place that doesn't change temperature much, like an Air Conditioned garage.
I also asked this in TC. One guy said to clean and paint all outside surfaces and then spray all machined surfaces with LPS #3, wrap in plastic and use plenty of duct tape, Similar to Your suggestions John.
Sounds like the Zep product is like Boeshield; a wax product that needs to be re-applied every year according to their site.
I wonder if anyone has ever plugged the water outlets and filed it with a liquid to take away some of the rust in the water cavities. I have heard about filling it with vinegar and letting it sit for a while, then flushing it.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cosmoline
http://www.cosmolinedirect.com/?gclid=CJ-0wJjMrKoCFcbBKgodGE4-Yw
Looks like the Cosmoline, LPS#1&3, and Zep are similar according to their description.
Think I will take your advise and store in the basement, since the temp and humidity is pretty constant as I always run a dehumidifier. Leaning towards a combination of suggestions. Clean & polish all machined surfaces, clean the rest of the surfaces, paint the exposed exterior surfaces, use one of the products to coat all the machined surfaces, and store as John suggested.
Just will use a truck to move the block to the basement. No hurry, after a fishing trip to AK, I hope it will be cooler with less humidity here in MN.