Trying to measure for custom Drive shaft in 72 Chevelle. Insatlled Gear Vendor over drive (had to alter cross member) installed Strange S-60 rear end and all new control arms that are adjustable. Talked to drive shaft place today and they say I want 2-3 downward degrees on both rear end yoke and Gear Vendor OD with reference to the Chassis when taking meassurements for drive shaft.
I can adjust both rear end and GV OD but do not know where for reference on the chassis. I was able to borrow a digital protractor from work that I can 0 at any reference point. WHAT and where on the frame is the best place to reference ?
Got this on TC too.
steve m said
Apr 18, 2011
The bottom of the engine block were the oil pan mounts is were you check that and the front of the pinion yoke for the other, the frame has nothing to do with it, You are checking the angles of the engine and rear end.
steve m said
Apr 18, 2011
If you are measuring for driveshaft clutch and u joint mesures it from end of output shaft and on the yoke it is the end or middle of cap
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 18, 2011
Thanks Steve, It does not make sence to me what the drive shaft guy is asking. This is what I did I measured the balancer, flex plate and the end of the GV OD it they are all the same makes sence to me they are all perpendicual to the crank. They are 4.3 degrees pointing down. (85.7 degrees). I have yet to set the Rear yoke. To me it makes sence to set it about 2.3 degrees pointing up (88 degrees). Thinking it would give me a starting point of -2 degrees pinion angle to start with. Then meassure from there for my drive shaft.
Does this make sence ?
Need to mount a laser pointer to the rearend yoke dead cneter on yoke bolt adjust rear end till it hits dead center on GV OD output shaft That would get me to 0 and go from there : )
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 12:29:23 AM
steve m said
Apr 19, 2011
You can just put the gauge on the end of the yoke and use that measurement. I would get the driveshaft made and then play with it, I had my blue chevelle at -3 degrees at the yoke and it worked out just fine. You can spend all day with them adjustable rear arms.
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 19, 2011
I hear you I am sick of messing with them. The one issue I am having is with the GV OD as high as it can go the output is lower then the rearend yoke. Typically output is higher If I set the rear yoke to 88.0 positive degrees measure 41 1/2" the other came out to around 41 7/16". 1/16" or even 1/4" makes that much difference in drive shaft length? I thought there was 5/8" play in them
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 06:03:31 PM
steve m said
Apr 19, 2011
Does the vendor come with a slip yoke. Most of the time there is a lot of slide in and out, Just dont measure short, Its alot less to shorten then lenghten if wrong
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 19, 2011
Is there anyone reputable that can shorten locally without screwing up my good driveshaft?
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 19, 2011
Tony Hoffer wrote:
Is there anyone reputable that can shorten locally without screwing up my good driveshaft?
I had Proven Force in Arden Hills shorten a shaft and they did a nice job. Supposedly we have a club discount at CatCo in roseville and they do automotive shafts too. I've only had shaft work done by them on my semi's and it was OK.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 19, 2011
steve m wrote:
Does the vendor come with a slip yoke. Most of the time there is a lot of slide in and out, Just dont measure short, Its alot less to shorten then lenghten if wrong
It must have a slip yoke or he would need to have a slip shaft built.
If you have the yoke for the OD output, slide it all the way in and then pull it back out an inch. There should still be AT LEAST 1 to 1 1/2 inches in the OD at that point. Then measure from the CENTER of the slip yoke u-joint cap to the CENTER of the rear yoke u-joint cap. That is normally how they want it measured.
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 19, 2011
Here is the Deal Denny's drive shaft is building it they have my Yoke I sent it to them. They have a form to fill out. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/webroot/img/File/how_to_measure_diagrams/b.html
He needs B6 & B7 form me. He want me to make sure before any measurig my rear end was setup with pinion angles, but whay he told me from a pinion angle perspective made no sence for my simple mind. Plus what I do not like it looks like to rearend Yoke is higher then the GV OD output. I hope I have enough play in the shaft to make adjustments if needed. Want to make sure I get it right the first time.
Tony how long does your shaft have to be ?
frank said
Apr 19, 2011
you have the diagram i take it from dennys. he isn't asking for much. your tranny must be where its going to stay is the rear end close i don't think if its a degree or 2 off it matters. measure from the two points in the picture thats b6 --b7 is just distance shaft sticks out of housing.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 19, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Here is the Deal Denny's drive shaft is building it they have my Yoke I sent it to them. They have a form to fill out. http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/webroot/img/File/how_to_measure_diagrams/b.html
He needs B6 & B7 form me. He want me to make sure before any measurig my rear end was setup with pinion angles, but whay he told me from a pinion angle perspective made no sence for my simple mind. Plus what I do not like it looks like to rearend Yoke is higher then the GV OD output. I hope I have enough play in the shaft to make adjustments if needed. Want to make sure I get it right the first time.
I agree with Frank.....just measure the length from the back of the OD case to the flat edge of the rear yoke.
If the shaft of the OD unit doesn't stick out of the case, that dimension is 0, or however far it sticks out. There should be at least 1" of slip joint tolerance for movement of the suspension and any tiny amount that changes with angle adjustment won't matter.
Be SURE to have the suspension loaded with the weight of the car as they state in the directions. That will center the slip yoke travel.
You can do this.....
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 06:04:01 PM
frank said
Apr 19, 2011
so if your tranny is at minus 3 degrees you should have your rear end at minus 3 degree plus a preload based on rear end type and horsepower. two degrees is common i think. so rearend at minus 5 if i remember right. try google setting rearend.
frank said
Apr 19, 2011
don't know how economy has hit dennys but sometimes he is a few months out on drive shafts
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 19, 2011
sent him the numbers already. Called him a couple weeks ago to get in que. supposed to be done May 2nd. Keeping fingers crossed. He told me he is very busy.
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 19, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Tony how long does your shaft have to be ?
Probably need to shorten an 1" or so..
frank said
Apr 19, 2011
i always go to dennys tony but had a car once that the rearend was tacked in and a buddyof mine who weighs 300lbs got in and gave me to much traction on a quick trip around the block broke the welds spun that baby up to the floor ate the end off drive shaft. took it to proven force they fixed it lasted good. on rice street back then. never bought a new one from the couldn't figure there measurements.
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:03:07 PM
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 19, 2011
Its a Dennys driveshaft.. I just dont want to have to ship to New Jersey if I could find someone competent to shorten it here..
frank said
Apr 19, 2011
ya it was a dennys i had repaired at "proven force" its at 3785 lexington north don't recommend it but i have ground the welds off the end cut inches off then welded back on should balance, the guys i did it for never balanced were slow street rods though.
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:19:08 PM
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:23:28 PM
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 19, 2011
Denny's is in Buffalo, NY where I grew up my home town NOT NJ. They have quite a reputation. They may shorten it for free. The shipping and time it will take will probabaly kill that deal. Will "Proven Force" balance it well ?
Chris R said
Apr 19, 2011
Tony Hoffer wrote:
Is there anyone reputable that can shorten locally without screwing up my good driveshaft?
I would recommend Proven Force and I also understand that Catco, which we get a pretty good discount from, also does a pretty good job on this as well.
Chris R said
Apr 19, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Denny's is in Buffalo, NY where I grew up my home town NOT NJ. They have quite a reputation. They may shorten it for free. The shipping and time it will take will probabaly kill that deal. Will "Proven Force" balance it well ?
Intresting. We actually have you and another member in our club thats from Buffalo, NY.
John D said
Apr 20, 2011
We do have an arrangement set up at Catco. The location that actually does the work is in Roseville, off 35w & Cty C (or B2... behind the car dealers), but you can drop off the shaft at any location and they'll inter-branch deliver it around. (Club Member Charlie M. set it up for us, but I've heard through the grapevine he's no longer working for Catco). We're listed under Northstar Chevelle Club
If you're going to use Catco, call the Roseville location, talk to the service dept., and ask them what specific measurements they need.
I had my stocker shortened there when I did the 4L60e conversion. Took them a couple of days. When I picked it up it was all cleaned up, painted black, and freshly greased. Nice work.
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 20, 2011
Now for the original question on pinion angle. It looks like my GVOD output is a little lower then the rear end yoke. How would I go about setting the pinion angle. The GVOD is shimmed up as high as it can go. All other instances where I read about pinion angles the output is higher then the rearend yoke. Do I need to consider new springs or something ?
May have to take it all apart and hammer some more. What a PITA.
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 12:21:37 PM
Chris R said
Apr 20, 2011
Some adjustable upper control arms would help with that.
Scott Parkhurst said
Apr 20, 2011
Chris R wrote:
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Denny's is in Buffalo, NY where I grew up my home town NOT NJ. They have quite a reputation. They may shorten it for free. The shipping and time it will take will probabaly kill that deal. Will "Proven Force" balance it well ?
Intresting. We actually have you and another member in our club thats from Buffalo, NY.
Hell ya! Go Sabres!
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 21, 2011
Scott, COOL hope to meet you at one of the meetings or events. Sabres rule they have the most USA players : ) What part of Buffalo you from ? Miss the great Pizza and wings there. I hammered like a mad man and got the GVOD as high as it can possible go. Measured the center output shaft of GVOD and it is about 3/4" above the rearend center yoke bolt. Got the car level and have -4.2 degrees on GVOD for reference. I think the tunnel may be smaller as the car was born a 4 speed, the clearance issue is not with GVOD but with the tranny and shifter area. I like it up like this the engine sits a lot better. Looks like I have something to work with now. Got adjustable uppers and lowers figured would need them to deal with GVOD mod and non stoke rearend. Sure feels like ever step forward I take 2 steps backwards. I geuss that is part of learning.
I can adjust both rear end and GV OD but do not know where for reference on the chassis.
I was able to borrow a digital protractor from work that I can 0 at any reference point.
WHAT and where on the frame is the best place to reference ?
The bottom of the engine block were the oil pan mounts is were you check that and the front of the pinion yoke for the other, the frame has nothing to do with it, You are checking the angles of the engine and rear end.
If you are measuring for driveshaft clutch and u joint mesures it from end of output shaft and on the yoke it is the end or middle of cap
Thanks Steve, It does not make sence to me what the drive shaft guy is asking. This is what I did I measured the balancer, flex plate and the end of the GV OD it they are all the same makes sence to me they are all perpendicual to the crank. They are 4.3 degrees pointing down. (85.7 degrees). I have yet to set the Rear yoke. To me it makes sence to set it about 2.3 degrees pointing up (88 degrees). Thinking it would give me a starting point of -2 degrees pinion angle to start with. Then meassure from there for my drive shaft.
Does this make sence ?
Need to mount a laser pointer to the rearend yoke dead cneter on yoke bolt adjust rear end till it hits dead center on GV OD output shaft That would get me to 0 and go from there : )
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 12:29:23 AM
You can just put the gauge on the end of the yoke and use that measurement. I would get the driveshaft made and then play with it, I had my blue chevelle at -3 degrees at the yoke and it worked out just fine. You can spend all day with them adjustable rear arms.
I hear you I am sick of messing with them. The one issue I am having is with the GV OD as high as it can go the output is lower then the rearend yoke. Typically output is higher If I set the rear yoke to 88.0 positive degrees measure 41 1/2" the other came out to around 41 7/16". 1/16" or even 1/4" makes that much difference in drive shaft length?
I thought there was 5/8" play in them
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 06:03:31 PM
Does the vendor come with a slip yoke. Most of the time there is a lot of slide in and out, Just dont measure short, Its alot less to shorten then lenghten if wrong
He needs B6 & B7 form me. He want me to make sure before any measurig my rear end was setup with pinion angles, but whay he told me from a pinion angle perspective made no sence for my simple mind. Plus what I do not like it looks like to rearend Yoke is higher then the GV OD output.
I hope I have enough play in the shaft to make adjustments if needed. Want to make sure I get it right the first time.
Tony how long does your shaft have to be ?
you have the diagram i take it from dennys. he isn't asking for much. your tranny must be where its going to stay is the rear end close i don't think if its a degree or 2 off it matters. measure from the two points in the picture thats b6 --b7 is just distance shaft sticks out of housing.
-- Edited by Lost in the 60s on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 06:04:01 PM
so if your tranny is at minus 3 degrees you should have your rear end at minus 3 degree plus a preload based on rear end type and horsepower. two degrees is common i think. so rearend at minus 5 if i remember right. try google setting rearend.
Probably need to shorten an 1" or so..
i always go to dennys tony but had a car once that the rearend was tacked in and a buddyof mine who weighs 300lbs got in and gave me to much traction on a quick trip around the block broke the welds spun that baby up to the floor ate the end off drive shaft. took it to proven force they fixed it lasted good. on rice street back then. never bought a new one from the couldn't figure there measurements.
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:03:07 PM
ya it was a dennys i had repaired at "proven force" its at 3785 lexington north don't recommend it but i have ground the welds off the end cut inches off then welded back on should balance, the guys i did it for never balanced were slow street rods though.
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:19:08 PM
-- Edited by frank on Tuesday 19th of April 2011 07:23:28 PM
I would recommend Proven Force and I also understand that Catco, which we get a pretty good discount from, also does a pretty good job on this as well.
Intresting. We actually have you and another member in our club thats from Buffalo, NY.
We're listed under Northstar Chevelle Club
If you're going to use Catco, call the Roseville location, talk to the service dept., and ask them what specific measurements they need.
I had my stocker shortened there when I did the 4L60e conversion. Took them a couple of days. When I picked it up it was all cleaned up, painted black, and freshly greased. Nice work.
Now for the original question on pinion angle. It looks like my GVOD output is a little lower then the rear end yoke. How would I go about setting the pinion angle.
The GVOD is shimmed up as high as it can go.
All other instances where I read about pinion angles the output is higher then the rearend yoke.
Do I need to consider new springs or something ?
May have to take it all apart and hammer some more. What a PITA.
-- Edited by Bowtieman427 on Wednesday 20th of April 2011 12:21:37 PM
Some adjustable upper control arms would help with that.
Miss the great Pizza and wings there.
I hammered like a mad man and got the GVOD as high as it can possible go. Measured the center output shaft of GVOD and it is about 3/4" above the rearend center yoke bolt. Got the car level and have -4.2 degrees on GVOD for reference. I think the tunnel may be smaller as the car was born a 4 speed, the clearance issue is not with GVOD but with the tranny and shifter area. I like it up like this the engine sits a lot better. Looks like I have something to work with now.
Got adjustable uppers and lowers figured would need them to deal with GVOD mod and non stoke rearend.
Sure feels like ever step forward I take 2 steps backwards. I geuss that is part of learning.