So I discovered the rear windows still leaks in my new Chevelle. All I know what to do is caulk it up, maybe from the inside but I know that won't seal 100%. Can anybody maybe help me try to seal this up right? Surprisingly, I have never removed a piece of trim in the 10 or so Chevelles I have owned since 1977 so I would like to get some help with this. The car should be streetable by this weekend to bring it over or I could barter or pay for some of your time and gas (steak dinner at Timber Lodge?).
The bottom corner of the driver's side has some rust that was cleaned up but not sealed up.
Thank you!!!
67ss said
Apr 11, 2011
Best thing to do would be to have the back window removed to check for more rust. Fix what ever is found and have the window glued back in. The stuff they installed windows with back then is terrible, the newer glues are much better.
Tim H said
Apr 11, 2011
There are two sizes of ribbon 5/16 and 3/8 they used in the cars. If you use the ribbon use the correct size or your window trim may not fit correctly. There is information on the Chevelle Tech site about using it with original thickness glass and after market glass.
I agree with what Chris said just get it to the correct thickness for correct trim fitment.
Chris R said
Apr 11, 2011
Its definetly going to have to come out in order to be fixed and sealed.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 12, 2011
This will most likely turn into much more than a simple remove and reseal job. Since the water is going in the trunk, I would guess there are rust holes at the bottom of the pinchweld channnel that need to be dealt with. I would get a trim removal tool for a few dollars and once the trim is removed, you can clean the channel to evaluate the situation better and decide on your next step. I have used hvac seam tape on the underside with brushable seam sealer in the channel to temporarily seal up rust holes. It will last a few years, if the holes aren't too big.
The issue I have with modern "glues" is that once it's there, you destroy the glass if it ever needs to be removed. I always clean the seal area with denatured alcohol or acetone and install ribbon sealer.
Chris R said
Apr 12, 2011
Its best to just have a professional glass shop do this work. Especially for getting it so you know its sealed right and when it comes time to place the window back on. You only get one shot to get it in place right. They have the special tools for putting the window back in place anyways. If they can get the window out without breaking it, it shouldnt be that expensive.
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 12, 2011
Well, I am hearing nobody here really wants to tackle the job. Where would you all suggest I go for this???
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 12, 2011
Actually ... I track well with Mitch's comments:
I would get a trim removal tool for a few dollars and once the trim is removed, you can clean the channel to evaluate the situation better and decide on your next step. I have used hvac seam tape on the underside with brushable seam sealer in the channel to temporarily seal up rust holes. It will last a few years, if the holes aren't too big.
I suppose I can get a trim tool at any parts store but what about HVAC seam tape and brushable seam sealer???
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 12, 2011
4-door Chevelle wrote:
Actually ... I track well with Mitch's comments:
I would get a trim removal tool for a few dollars and once the trim is removed, you can clean the channel to evaluate the situation better and decide on your next step. I have used hvac seam tape on the underside with brushable seam sealer in the channel to temporarily seal up rust holes. It will last a few years, if the holes aren't too big.
I suppose I can get a trim tool at any parts store but what about HVAC seam tape and brushable seam sealer???
I have time during the week, while everyone else is at work, but my weekends for the next 6 weeks are busy. I also foresee it becoming more than may possibly be done in an afternoon. If you have any days off during the week, I could see what I can do with it. I have everything here but the butyl ribbon sealer.
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 13, 2011
Hey that sounds great Mitch, I really appreciate it. I hope to get the rear-end out tonight, clean that area up and at least start getting the other one in. I am off at 11:00am on Friday's but I still won't have an exhaust system in yet. If it works for you I can be at your place by noon one day early next week?
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 13, 2011
Yeah, I can fit it in. See if you can get the butyl seal locally or if it needs to be ordered in. I don't know which size it requires.... 5/16 or 3/8.
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 14, 2011
From TC:
"Most auto parts store carry "buytl tape" and all body shop supply stores have it. You have to pick between 5/16" and 3/8" thick tape. Stock glass is thicker than the aftermarket glass so you use the 5/16" (thinner) tape so that the window sit's at the right height so your window trim will fit correctly. With the thin glass you use the thicker tape. Install your trim clips before setting the glass."
NAPA is the only one who has it, #08611 $20.00 in stock so I will pick that up.
Shoot me your number again. Thanks!
4-door Chevelle said
Apr 20, 2011
Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU Mitch for helping me clean this up today and get it back together. I really appreciated your time and if you ever need anything please just ask.
So I discovered the rear windows still leaks in my new Chevelle. All I know what to do is caulk it up, maybe from the inside but I know that won't seal 100%. Can anybody maybe help me try to seal this up right? Surprisingly, I have never removed a piece of trim in the 10 or so Chevelles I have owned since 1977 so I would like to get some help with this. The car should be streetable by this weekend to bring it over or I could barter or pay for some of your time and gas (steak dinner at Timber Lodge?).
The bottom corner of the driver's side has some rust that was cleaned up but not sealed up.
Thank you!!!
Best thing to do would be to have the back window removed to check for more rust. Fix what ever is found and have the window glued back in. The stuff they installed windows with back then is terrible, the newer glues are much better.
I agree with what Chris said just get it to the correct thickness for correct trim fitment.
Its definetly going to have to come out in order to be fixed and sealed.
This will most likely turn into much more than a simple remove and reseal job. Since the water is going in the trunk, I would guess there are rust holes at the bottom of the pinchweld channnel that need to be dealt with. I would get a trim removal tool for a few dollars and once the trim is removed, you can clean the channel to evaluate the situation better and decide on your next step. I have used hvac seam tape on the underside with brushable seam sealer in the channel to temporarily seal up rust holes. It will last a few years, if the holes aren't too big.
The issue I have with modern "glues" is that once it's there, you destroy the glass if it ever needs to be removed. I always clean the seal area with denatured alcohol or acetone and install ribbon sealer.
Its best to just have a professional glass shop do this work. Especially for getting it so you know its sealed right and when it comes time to place the window back on. You only get one shot to get it in place right. They have the special tools for putting the window back in place anyways. If they can get the window out without breaking it, it shouldnt be that expensive.
I would get a trim removal tool for a few dollars and once the trim is removed, you can clean the channel to evaluate the situation better and decide on your next step. I have used hvac seam tape on the underside with brushable seam sealer in the channel to temporarily seal up rust holes. It will last a few years, if the holes aren't too big.
I suppose I can get a trim tool at any parts store but what about HVAC seam tape and brushable seam sealer???
Yeah, I can fit it in. See if you can get the butyl seal locally or if it needs to be ordered in. I don't know which size it requires.... 5/16 or 3/8.
"Most auto parts store carry "buytl tape" and all body shop supply stores have it. You have to pick between 5/16" and 3/8" thick tape. Stock glass is thicker than the aftermarket glass so you use the 5/16" (thinner) tape so that the window sit's at the right height so your window trim will fit correctly. With the thin glass you use the thicker tape. Install your trim clips before setting the glass."
NAPA is the only one who has it, #08611 $20.00 in stock so I will pick that up.
Shoot me your number again. Thanks!