I need to connect the downpipes from the exhaust manifolds to the exhausting tail pipes. Both are 2.5" dia. tubing.
I bought these band clamps from Summit thinking I can cut the downpipes and the tail pipes so they butt together, then use the band clamp for the butt joint.
As I look at the band clamp, there is a seam and I'm not sure if that would make an exhaust leak. The info says they will seal.
I'd guess that O'Reilly might even rent one. This way you can make a true mechanical slip-joint and with a clamp and some puckumgooky it'll never leak.
Dan Williams said
Apr 4, 2011
I have used them a couple of times, they work great, been on a few years and still look like new. I probably can get some pictures if you want, the 71 is on the lift anyway. Also have the tool John is talking about, works good for re-rounding a pipe or stretching a little, but have split a pipe with it while trying to get it that extra litlle bit.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
Dan Williams wrote:
I have used them a couple of times, they work great, been on a few years and still look like new. I probably can get some pictures if you want, the 71 is on the lift anyway. Also have the tool John is talking about, works good for re-rounding a pipe or stretching a little, but have split a pipe with it while trying to get it that extra litlle bit.
Thanks Dan. Pics would be great when you get a min.
So you cut the pipes so the ends butted up against each other, wrapped the clamp around them, and tightened it up? Was there any air gap between the two pipes or did you cut it so that they touched?
Dan Williams said
Apr 4, 2011
It's been awhile, I have to go out to the shop in a litlle bit, I will look and take pictures and back on here by this evening. Seems to me we cut them as straight as possible and they basicly touched. These clamps are also available at NAPA, that is where I got mine.
Chris R said
Apr 4, 2011
Ive used them before as well and the good quality ones work pretty slick. They arent that expensive. like 10 dollars each. I have never been a fan of fully welding an exhaust system to seal it personally and I plan to use stainless steel band clamps as well.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 4, 2011
I put a pair of them on another Camaro I worked on because of the very thing Chris mentioned. It had a completely welded system and I needed to remove the entire subframe assembly so I cut the pipes with a sawzall. I had to move the mufflers forward so I cut more off the pipes and they were close when I reassembled with the band clamps but not toughing. The small gap at the seam of the clamp should close up as you tighten the clamp and it stretches around the pipes to seal. I don't remember if the clamp came with a strip of crush-able aluminum to seal the gap but they didn't leak when done. I use band clamps on the Pete all the time and they come with a crush strip for the gap. Just remember, they AREN"T reusable. Make sure everything is where you want it before final tightening.
Dan Williams said
Apr 4, 2011
SShink wrote:
Dan Williams wrote:
I have used them a couple of times, they work great, been on a few years and still look like new. I probably can get some pictures if you want, the 71 is on the lift anyway. Also have the tool John is talking about, works good for re-rounding a pipe or stretching a little, but have split a pipe with it while trying to get it that extra litlle bit.
Thanks Dan. Pics would be great when you get a min.
So you cut the pipes so the ends butted up against each other, wrapped the clamp around them, and tightened it up? Was there any air gap between the two pipes or did you cut it so that they touched?
Pictures came out like crap for some reason, was in a huge hurry and must of had some setting off. Will try again later.
Dan Williams said
Apr 5, 2011
Here's a couple of pic'sof my 71, they are overlapping at the joints, it was another car where we butt connected them. They worked great either way.
SShink said
Apr 6, 2011
Thanks Dan. This is the step down style versus the straight butt type clamp. I would expect the same results with the straight type also now that I can see the aluminum that covers the gap. That was where I was concerned it would leak.
Hopefully I'll find out soon if they leak or not!
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 6, 2011
That was a flat band when he started. The stainless stretches and conforms to the joint. You will find it takes some time and strength to draw the band completely into the aluminum block. If you use a power tool, be careful to tighten the bolts equally, or the band can tear at the block if pulled too far on one side. When properly done, it won't leak...
Chris R said
Apr 6, 2011
The nicer ones can stand up to being reused so you can swap mufflers without having to replace them.
I need to connect the downpipes from the exhaust manifolds to the exhausting tail pipes. Both are 2.5" dia. tubing.
I bought these band clamps from Summit thinking I can cut the downpipes and the tail pipes so they butt together, then use the band clamp for the butt joint.
As I look at the band clamp, there is a seam and I'm not sure if that would make an exhaust leak. The info says they will seal.
Anyone have experience with this style of clamp?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-693250/
I'd still go this route: http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7769211_0109098891
I'd guess that O'Reilly might even rent one. This way you can make a true mechanical slip-joint and with a clamp and some puckumgooky it'll never leak.
Thanks Dan. Pics would be great when you get a min.
So you cut the pipes so the ends butted up against each other, wrapped the clamp around them, and tightened it up? Was there any air gap between the two pipes or did you cut it so that they touched?
Ive used them before as well and the good quality ones work pretty slick. They arent that expensive. like 10 dollars each. I have never been a fan of fully welding an exhaust system to seal it personally and I plan to use stainless steel band clamps as well.
I put a pair of them on another Camaro I worked on because of the very thing Chris mentioned. It had a completely welded system and I needed to remove the entire subframe assembly so I cut the pipes with a sawzall. I had to move the mufflers forward so I cut more off the pipes and they were close when I reassembled with the band clamps but not toughing. The small gap at the seam of the clamp should close up as you tighten the clamp and it stretches around the pipes to seal. I don't remember if the clamp came with a strip of crush-able aluminum to seal the gap but they didn't leak when done. I use band clamps on the Pete all the time and they come with a crush strip for the gap. Just remember, they AREN"T reusable. Make sure everything is where you want it before final tightening.
Pictures came out like crap for some reason, was in a huge hurry and must of had some setting off. Will try again later.
Here's a couple of pic'sof my 71, they are overlapping at the joints, it was another car where we butt connected them. They worked great either way.
Thanks Dan. This is the step down style versus the straight butt type clamp. I would expect the same results with the straight type also now that I can see the aluminum that covers the gap. That was where I was concerned it would leak.
Hopefully I'll find out soon if they leak or not!
That was a flat band when he started. The stainless stretches and conforms to the joint. You will find it takes some time and strength to draw the band completely into the aluminum block. If you use a power tool, be careful to tighten the bolts equally, or the band can tear at the block if pulled too far on one side. When properly done, it won't leak...
The nicer ones can stand up to being reused so you can swap mufflers without having to replace them.