Hello all, This is my very first posting and was curious if there is any advice out there. I bought a 72 Malibu back in 2004 and it may actually be running this Spring. The engine is in Owatona getting back together. I am going to put in a GV OD and running a TH 400 with 3500 stall 557 BBC. Does anyone have any experience putting the engines back in. Any advice. I have a small 2 car garage. Not a lot of ceiling clearance. I was hoping to bolt up the engine to the tranny with the OD, but I am not sure that will work. The engine should be done inthe next month or so.
John D said
Jan 24, 2011
Welcome to the site... Geez, another 71/72! (JK)
If you look around there's a bunch of guys in the same situation, there's at least a 1/2 dozen in the "car's apart club", with engine/trans/front end/etc. off the car and in-progress.
Just network around and you'll find some of our "southern metro" guys more than willing to offer help, an extra hand, tools, skills, or raid your beer fridge!
bowtie said
Jan 24, 2011
First, WELCOME!
Now, if you have a hoist with an engine tilter, you might be able to slowly work it in while bringint it down and leveling it all out, though with the added length og a Gear Vendors unit, it might be tough. When I was putting mine back in, I had the wheels off since I had the garage door to contend with (frame was supported in front on wood blocks, but back tires on). Otherwise, you should be able to stab the assy in w/o the GV and then bolt it together while the engine/trans is still suspended, making it a little more moveable to get to all the bolts.
Make sure you check out the whole site-we have calendars and other merchandise available. Paid memberships ($24/12 months) get some added benefits including newsletters, member's contact list, free window decal, etc.
thanks for posting!
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 24, 2011
John D wrote:
Welcome to the site... Geez, another 71/72! (JK)
If you look around there's a bunch of guys in the same situation, there's at least a 1/2 dozen in the "car's apart club", with engine/trans/front end/etc. off the car and in-progress.
Just network around and you'll find some of our "southern metro" guys more than willing to offer help, an extra hand, tools, skills, or raid your beer fridge!
Thanks I will join or I should say rejoin I was a member once back in '04 did not make it to any events or anything : ( Live in Pine Island near Rochester. I will need help. Especailly now that we are getting closer to the finish line. If anyone close by LMK if interseted in helping out. Also I can help anyone out also. I am real good at taking apart putting back takes a little longer ; ) It helps to have someone around that has done this a few times.
dashboard said
Jan 24, 2011
Welcome to the group, if your pulling or stuffing an engine you came to the right spot, lots of Chevelle front springs fully extended this time of year. There are a couple of members with big blocks about to go back in, I’m sure they will chime in.
How low/high is your ceiling? I’m not familiar with your OD unit, what does it ad to the overall length of the power train?
Wait for Stan to come on line, he has R&R his engine and trany so many times in the last two year we made him our President.
What part of town are you located? There are several BBC on stands or hanging from chains that should be going back in soon. Could be a great time to serve an apprenticeship, and get to know some good guys.
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 24, 2011
Sadly I am from Pine Island, MN 55-60 miles south of St. Paul on Hwy 52. My garage floor to ceiling is about 8ft (standard hight) and yes have garage door and it is not very deep either. The GV OD adds about 18-22" total. I have not pounded the floor of the car yet for the extra clearance needed. I have welded up and modified the trany mount. The next couple of weeks I will be getting into it seriously. So I am planning trying to plan ahead. Figure engien will be done in the next month to 6 weeks. I hope it warms up. I hate the cold : )
SShink said
Jan 24, 2011
Welcome back! I joined in 2003, left in '04-'06 because of a transfer out of state, but came back for more.
What's your 1st name? I wish we had the option to put that next to our avatar pic (John D......?).
I've attached some pics of the BBC/trans pulls I've done in the past few years (you'll see a trend here! ). The first 2 pics were done in my garage with a 9' ceiling and I didn't use an adjustable hook. The 3rd pic is in a garage with an 11' ceiling.
I usually just remove the hood and that's it. I don't jack up the front end or take it completely off like some of us... (see pic 4)!
A few of us live in the southern metro and have driven further than 60 miles to help other car guys out, so let us know if you need a hand.
Welcome... A BB/TH400 combo is about all the compartment will fit. I'm afraid with the extra length and girth of the Gear Vendors, you're gonna need to either pull the core support or put the OD in afterward. In your case, pulling the support as in Stan's pic #4 may be a very good option. You would be able to push it nearly straight in.
bowtie said
Jan 24, 2011
He's a Jim from what it says when you click his name.
SShink said
Jan 24, 2011
bowtie wrote:
He's a Jim from what it says when you click his name.
Thanks Bryan. I forgot that there is more info by clicking on the username above the avatar pic.
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 24, 2011
Stan sent you a PM. My name is Jim : )
Chris R said
Jan 24, 2011
The only member I can think of in your area is Derek. Welcome back.
Derek69SS said
Jan 25, 2011
Welcome back Jim! Good to hear you're finally getting it back together! Just recently I was wondering if you ever got it going. Do you still have the old truck that you bought from my brother?
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 25, 2011
Still have the old truck : ) It is up north in our shed. My 9yr old son loves that beater truck. His first pinewood derby car was based off that truck he called it "Death Truck". Sadly have not started it up for few years. I may be asking for physical and mental help in the near future : ) if you are up for it.
SteveS said
Jan 25, 2011
Welcome Jim, it's good to see another '72 in the club, and another one south of the cities. I'm about 40 miles south of you in Fountain.
As they said above, I'm not sure with the added length you'll be able to install it without pulling the front clip or bolting the gear vendors unit on after the motor is in place.
Dave Seitz said
Jan 25, 2011
Jim, are you that far removed you have forgotten the engine install call.
FREE BEER! FREE PIZZA, OPEN HEADERS!
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 25, 2011
Dave Seitz wrote:
Jim, are you that far removed you have forgotten the engine install call.
FREE BEER! FREE PIZZA, OPEN HEADERS!
Dave, I am learning and I am a little slow thanks for reminding me on what I have forgoten. When we get closer. I will be taking orders for Pizza and Beer. I am hoping a Sat will work to get it done : ) Engine is very close to getting done. They called today and need my valve covers. bolts for the intake and see if I have a set of pushrods that will work.
Pushrod said
Jan 25, 2011
Hey Jim Im one of the south metro guys my car is Stans #4 pic BB Im in if you looking for help!
Bowtieman427 said
Jan 27, 2011
Thanks Pushrod. I am sure I will need help. I will post again a few weeks prior to putting it in.
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 5, 2011
Talked to Sput's Friday and they have it all together and we are waiting on Dyno time last next or early week after. Here is the build and hope all my homework pays off as this was designed by myself with help from Mark Lewis and Jim Moore and others on TC when the first 540 had issues. Went this route do to many factors during research.
1- 4.375" crank same price as 4.25"
2- found a killer deal on AFR 335CNC heads with the Jesel shaft mounts installed and milled by AFR to 112cc and Mahle actually made an off shelf piston that would work me close to the 11:1 for my app another cost savings
3- Designed around the heads I am one that thinks heads are where it is at and the rest is around for the ride.
4- Already had many parts
5- Spent a small fortune on lifters as I think these will be the best for street strip app. They need to perform at low RPM and deal with low oiling at low RPM.
Merlin II block
4.375" stroke 4.5" bore
Goal make an awsome BBC street/strip 72 Chevelle 11:1 SCR that can run pump gas all day long and make a ton of raw power.
Design goals shared with builder:
Short Block
-Make sure there are NO oil restrictors in place. Want oil all over even Cam & lifters.
-Balance rotating assembly. Cranks should NOT be like swiss cheese during balancing ask if they lath metal off instead of drilling everywhere. There should be at most 2 drill holes.
-quench 0.034-0.041” want to minimize as much as possible. If possible 0- -X deck block and standard Fel-Pro #17048 or #1047 prefer 0.039” gasket if can be used. Best judgement will be considered if piston has to be in hole a little. I do not want to spend tons on a head gasket + decking.
Main Clearances Shoot for looser clearances use Celvite H or ACL series Mains & rods 0.0028-0.0035” a little on high side clearance OK
-Piston rings 0.022” top ring, 0.026” second ring. Do not want pressure delta or blow by gowing super big on top and small on bottom creates blow bye
-Make sure block is super clean with all plugs out. Cleaner the better
Parts
-Crank Callies Compstar 4.375” stroke suppose to be cleared for 6.385” rod
-ATI 917060 Internal balance Damper can make it external Damper ATI 917740 may need to be honed. Or heat treatment before install.
-ATI flex plate internal balance 9155441
-Rods Callies Compstar 6.385”
-Pistons Mahle
4.500 bore 4.375 stroke 6.385 ROD 0.990 PD 1.228R CH 8cc dome 531g 11.0 with 112cc PN / BBC228500D08
Heads
-AFR 335CNC chamber 112cc
-- ARP #135-3703 BBC Mark IV bolts
--Springs Manley NexTek 221424-16 max lift .880 1.640 od .860id 250# @ 2.000” 647#/inch spring rate 1.070 coil Cam needs 225-250# seat pressure. They may be shimmed as the gentleman I bought them from said they are 380# on seat and 697# open. Should be gtg with shims out.
--Jesel sportman shaft mount rockers 1.7"
Lifters
-Isky Red Zone 372-96-RH-EZX
-Cam
--Custom from Harold Brookshire Lunati 265i 271e @ 0.050” .725” gross (net .700”) lift
Intake
-Merlin single plane
Carb
-Holley 4150 1000HP tuneable jets
Oil Pump
-Melling anti cavitatioin
-Have not work this one out yet. Leaning toward a HP HV pump. Want higher OP shim spring 0.030” & High volume. Do not want to ever see 10# again in my life. Check Oil Pump for end play sand housing if needed clearance 0.005” – 0.0015” is what you want.
Push rods
--3/8" push rod but want some very solid ones.
Milodon gear drive
Outcomes:
Quench is at 0.041" with 0.036" gasket 10.95:1 SCR was hoping for over 11:1 but could not see paying to grind the heads for such a small gain.
Added MSD crank trigger.
In car will have Lemon headers 2 1/8" 4" collector 3" exhaust with Morso Exhaust evac system TH 400 3500 stall with GVOD and 4.56:1 rear running a 28" tire wish I could fit bigger and wider.
The car is pure stock looking even bench seat. B&M shfter & small tach on Dash kind of looks a little mean : ) It has a SS hood as I could not fit the engine in with stock hood. Have a very low profile air cleaner. may change this setup in future.
What do you think this will Dyno at HP and FtLb ?
Any geusses ? What will I lose in the car ?
Where will it nose dive ?
I will try to post the Dyno once it is complete.
Hopfull get it in the car March time frame
thanks Jim
SShink said
Feb 5, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Goal make an awsome BBC street/strip 72 Chevelle 11:1 SCR that can run pump gas all day long and make a ton of raw power.
What do you think this will Dyno at HP and FtLb ? Any geusses ? What will I lose in the car ? Where will it nose dive ? I will try to post the Dyno once it is complete. Hopfull get it in the car March time frame thanks Jim
Man Jim, that is an AWESOME setup!
My conservative SWAG is 650 HP/680 Ft. Lbs. Torque
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 5, 2011
A guy in the Camaro Club just had a 462 bb built much more conservative than yours and hit 652 hp 580 torque at Wheelers. I'll guess yours at 780hp 720 torque.
bowtie said
Feb 6, 2011
Assuming you had all the other stuff lined up before picking the cam, I'm going to say no matter what you'll have an awesome cam. I don't have the exact story so I won't repeat it other than to say Harold is THE cam guy. Here's a quick list Harold posted on Team Chevelle as to his experience:
1969---Went to work for State of Mississippi as computer operator, rose to be lead operator at CDPA, Central Data Processing Agency.
1972---Began working on cam design program in my spare time.
Dec 15, 1972---Sold 310AP SBC solid to Reed Cams, Georgia, for $125.00.
1973---Made $3000 selling to Reed, Isky, Engle, Norris.
1974---Designed Reed's RxxxULX line of rollers, and a lot more, including Benny Parson's 1975 Daytona 500-winning cam. Also Shirl Greer's TF/FC NHRA National Champion Nitro Funny car cam, designed for Norris, and it was a True Chrysler flat tappet, with .438" lobe lift.
1974---Became General Kinetics' cam designer, worked with people like Bill Jenkins and Jack Roush on the cams for their ProStockers.
1976---Jenkins wins Pro Stock Natinal Championship, with GK doing large-barrel cams.
1977---I start in January with Competion Cams, as their original cam designer. Over the next 3 years, I design them hundreds of cams, including the 268 High Energy. I introduce them to the unsymmetrical cam.
1979---I write them their 1st in-house cam design program. Before that, we shared a program with Cam Dynamics.
1980---After negotiating since late 1976 for some stock ownership in Competition Cams, I leave and start UltraDyne on April 1st, 1980. The 1st month I design the 288/296F5 and the 288/296R6, the 2 most popular cams I ever made.
1981---In September, I hire my 1st employee, Mike O'Neal, who ran my shop, made all my models and masters, etc.
1982---We're running 2 shifts, from 7:00 AM to 12:00 PM. Tim Goolsby comes to work for me, he is Mike's brother-in-law. I also design UltraDyne's first hydraulic cams, such as the 272, the 276, the 288/296H.
From then on until 2000, we all just worked. UltraDyne grossed over $1.2 Million a year from 1990 to 1999.
2000---A number of independent factors began to take their toll---Federal Mogul acquiring my 2 major solid lifter core manufacturers, and their later Chapter 11, Lifter companies disappearring, tremendous cash-flow problems in the end of 2000, initially triggered by the UPS strike---We lost around $50,000 in the strike.
2001---A un-named cam company in Memphis hires 8 of my 12 employees, and 2 more just leave because they think --that's it. Only Tim and Gail are left with me.
2001-2003---UltraDyne is in the Chapter 11 'Death Spiral'. I take a $0 salary for 2002, and pump all my, and my wife's, retirment money into UltraDyne, along with all the equity I could get on my house, etc, etc, etc.
June 2003---Everything is gone, the government locks the doors.
August 2003---I go to work at Lunati, charged with completely re-doing their entire line of cams. Mike is already there, waiting for me, along with Steve Slavik, who worked for me for 13 years (Mike for 19...). Then I meet the corporate world.....
Oct 2004---Lunati introduces the VooDoo cams. And they really work good.....
From everything I have heard and read about him, your cam will be EXACTLY what you ask for and need for the engine based on what you tell him. If I were building a big eninge, I would want him to do my cam, that's for sure.
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 6, 2011
I spoke to Harold for awhile on the cam for the car. He is a great guy with a well of knowledge very down to earth and pratical. He is not some guy plugging numbers in a coputer spitting out a cam for you. I tell everyone deciding on a cam to talk to him before deciding on anything.
Dave Seitz said
Feb 6, 2011
Yea Harold knows a thing or two about cams, engines and performance in general.
Minor problem I see is the if the car does hook off the line frame twist and if it does not hook many sets of tires. With a big HP and TQ available driveline shock may come into play for you. How did you plan to plant all that power on the street?
-- Edited by Dave Seitz on Sunday 6th of February 2011 0443 PM
-- Edited by Dave Seitz on Sunday 6th of February 2011 04:20:02 PM
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 6, 2011
That is a great question....This will need to be the next phase any ideas ? : )
I am sure there will be all kinds of issues. I think I will need to take it easy for a while feeling it out. For now I have BFG street drag radial tires, 12 bolt posi 4.56 with LPW Ultimate axle cover and tube support. Built TH400 and GVOD. I have to get the Drive shaft cut and rebalanced for GV may splurg and get a different shaft with bigger U-Joints. Have not research it fully yet. Suspension is where the real issues will be. air shocks, not sure what all else is back there or if there have been any other upgrades.
I am new to this sort of thing.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 6, 2011
Don't even think about using the stock drive shaft. That will be the first piece to fail behind all that power. You need to have an aftermarket shaft custom built. The air shocks won't be conducive to traction either and they usually enhance wheel hop. You may want to look into a set of drag bags for inside the rear springs or coil-overs. Making the kind of power you are talking brings a whole host of issues downstream that get costly to remedy. If you don't abuse the rear axle with really sticky tires a lot, it may hold up fine, but you are really into the range of a Moser nodular 12 bolt or a 9" for strength. If you still have stock axle shafts, seriously consider aftermarket. They are much stronger.
67ss said
Feb 7, 2011
Definitely will want to get C clip eliminators in the rear end. Would hate to see an axle come out and wreck the car after all that work you are putting into it.
SteveS said
Feb 7, 2011
I have not dealt with Sput's myself, but I've heard nothing but good things, especially with the circle track guys. You can be sure it will be put together right.
John D said
Feb 7, 2011
Running a TH-400 w/ a GV-OD you're not going to have to worry about the driveshaft... it'll only be about a foot & 1/2 long .
Scott Parkhurst said
Feb 7, 2011
Wow! No stock driveshaft or rear axle will put up with that kind of power for long.
Those T/As will be severely challenged- but the drag radials are better than most. The latest/greatest versions are well reviewed...but if you get bite you'll bust an axle.
I've got a 9-inch (w/Chevelle brackets) I might be willing to part with. It's Currie-built and has all their goodies in it. I want to keep the center section, though (4.30:1 gears and a Detroit Locker in a nodular carrier). It's narrowed 3 inches and may force you to consider mini-tubs, which is something else guys with 700 ft-lbs should consider...!
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 9, 2011
67ss wrote:
Definitely will want to get C clip eliminators in the rear end. Would hate to see an axle come out and wreck the car after all that work you are putting into it.
Chris, I agree completely How hard is it to put in them in ? Any experience. Also may consider a set of good aftermarket axles. Is there a way to check what I have without tearing it all apart ?
-Drive shaft will be shorter and the TH400 should be less stress on Drive Shaft did call up Denny's anyway they reccomend the Nitro. I think it will be less 18-20" shorter then stock. The one issue is it would be spinning very very fast at full speed.
Current setup 12 bolt posi 4.56
I was hoping the BFG street drags would have a lot of give compared to full slicks and issues would be minimum.
Thanks everyone for comments and suggestions. It is so cold in garage my ambition has been low latley.
67ss said
Feb 10, 2011
Pulling off the rear drums and seeing if there is any kind of retainer bolting to the flange that holds the backing plate on would tell you if it has c clip eliminators. If not you will just see the axle going through the seal and into the housing.
The best c clip elimination would be to take your rear end out of the car and take it to a rear end shop to have ford ends welded onto it with matching axle shafts to press on ford bearings and seals. We did it on my uncles old 69 chevelle. I think it cost about $700 bucks which included all the labor and the new axles to match everything. I have not heard good things about the style that has you cut the end of the tube off and bolt them to the existing brake backing plate flange. They seem to be prone to leaking.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 10, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
-Drive shaft will be shorter and the TH400 should be less stress on Drive Shaft did call up Denny's anyway they recommend the Nitro. I think it will be less 18-20" shorter then stock. The one issue is it would be spinning very very fast at full speed.
Current setup 12 bolt posi 4.56
I was hoping the BFG street drags would have a lot of give compared to full slicks and issues would be minimum.
Thanks everyone for comments and suggestions. It is so cold in garage my ambition has been low lately.
The original tubing thickness is much thinner than a good aftermarket. It will twist like a pretzel until it gets short enough to pull out of the OD output.
The Ford ends and axles are much heavier and would prolong the current set-up but at some point the carrier caps are gonna explode and destroy the housing. I would seriously look at a Currie or Moser 9" before spending $700 to modify the 12 bolt. If the 12 bolt isn't original to the car and you aren't attached to it, it would bring some decent coin to offset the changeover.
seagrams72 said
Feb 11, 2011
Look at your true use for the car in the mean time. If it is a track car, dump the 12 bolt and get a 9". If it is mostly cruising with maybe a heavy foot here and there, a 12 bolt with custom axles should be fine for the mean time. I would buy a 9" before I modify a 12 bolt. The 12 bolt as built could be sold to help offset the 9" cost, probably even close to buy you the new case from Moser/ Currie.
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 14, 2011
Did something completely different Do not go with a 9" or 12 bolt
Called Strange Engineering and ordered a S-60 Dana rear end
Detriot Locker with 4.10 Spice gears
35 spline S/T strange axles.
½ 3” long studs
11” Ford drum brakes
Chrome Moly 1350 Pinion Yoke
Need to get Shoulder lug nuts
LPW support cover
http://www.strangeengineering.net/catalog/index.html
This sholud solve the weak rear end problem.
Needless to say a 12 bolt posi 4.56 rear end will be up for sale soon.
Thinking of getting Spohn or USI adjustable uppers, and a Spoun Drag ARB. I have SSM lower arms. Have to double check on what I have for Triangulation bars I thought I had some but will double check.
Lost in the 60s said
Feb 14, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Did something completely different Do not go with a 9" or 12 bolt Called Strange Engineering and ordered a S-60 Dana rear end Detriot Locker with 4.10 Spice gears 35 spline S/T strange axles. ½ 3” long studs 11” Ford drum brakes Chrome Moly 1350 Pinion Yoke Need to get Shoulder lug nuts LPW support cover
Needless to say a 12 bolt posi 4.56 rear end will be up for sale soon.
Thinking of getting Spohn or USI adjustable uppers, and a Spoun Drag ARB. I have SSM lower arms. Have to double check on what I have for Triangulation bars I thought I had some but will double check.
Good move.....selling the 12 bolt will put funds towards the Strange. If you waited till the 12 bolt blew up, you'd have nothing and still need to buy an axle... If all you have for the frames braces are the stock, stamped pieces, I'd suggest going with the tubular, adjustable ones. I don't think the stamped units are going to help much.
67ss said
Feb 14, 2011
Yea you won't explode a Dana 60, good call.
Chris R said
Feb 14, 2011
What gear ratio did you decide to get?
Bowtieman427 said
Feb 14, 2011
4.10
Bowtieman427 said
Mar 8, 2011
Dyno done 758HP @ 5800RPM and 720ftlb @ 5000RPM Posted all info on TC
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332751
SShink said
Mar 8, 2011
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Dyno done 758HP @ 5800RPM and 720ftlb @ 5000RPM Posted all info on TC http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332751
AWESTOME Jim!!!!
And to think I was being 'conservative' with my 650 HP/680 Torque! Looks like Mitch was closer! I can't wait to hear that thing in person and maybe go for a spin...
69SSConv said
Mar 8, 2011
Those are some very impressive numbers, it will be even more impressive to hear it run. Great job!
-- Edited by 69SSConv on Tuesday 8th of March 2011 03:58:52 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 9, 2011
SShink wrote:
Bowtieman427 wrote:
Dyno done 758HP @ 5800RPM and 720ftlb @ 5000RPM Posted all info on TC http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332751
AWESTOME Jim!!!!
And to think I was being 'conservative' with my 650 HP/680 Torque! Looks like Mitch was closer!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you verrrrry muuuuch
Bowtieman427 said
Mar 25, 2011
SShink wrote:
Welcome back! I joined in 2003, left in '04-'06 because of a transfer out of state, but came back for more.
What's your 1st name? I wish we had the option to put that next to our avatar pic (John D......?).
I've attached some pics of the BBC/trans pulls I've done in the past few years (you'll see a trend here! ). The first 2 pics were done in my garage with a 9' ceiling and I didn't use an adjustable hook. The 3rd pic is in a garage with an 11' ceiling.
I usually just remove the hood and that's it. I don't jack up the front end or take it completely off like some of us... (see pic 4)!
A few of us live in the southern metro and have driven further than 60 miles to help other car guys out, so let us know if you need a hand.
Stan
OK I know I am revisiting this. I have an aftermarket MOROSO pan it was a little tricky get it out without the tranny, but woroking against gravity figure it may be easier putting in with gravity. How much ceiling cllearance will I need if I go engine and tranny. I have 8 ft ceiling. (Stan it looks like you did not have to get it all that high.
I also know they went in together the first time figure it can happen again : )
How much of a PITA is it to put the tranny in after the engine is in. I am getting real close to putting it in. Finishing up some wiring projects. I may try to get it in this next week or next weekend April 2nd. I still do not have converter or carb back yet. Carb is at the "Carb Shop" in St Paul.
Dave Seitz said
Mar 25, 2011
The trick is to drop the front of the car down as low as you can get it. DO NOT FILL THE TRANS WITH OIL YET! angle the engine/trans combo down at the steepest angle you can and slow tip it back towards level as it goes under the car. It helps to have another guy or 2 for guidance into the spot and not dent or scratch the freshly painted firewall and fenders.
Did you get your headers yet if you did get them in and settle the engine down in between them in one motion. It is a PIA but easier now then later when your trying to twist and tilt and dimple things to fit.
SShink said
Mar 25, 2011
Jim, you should be o.k. with an 8' ceiling, but it will be a little close.
I've installed the engine both with and without the trans attached. I only did it once with just the engine, and then did it with the trans ever since.
It wasn't that bad getting the trans attached after the engine was in, but it is definitely a 2 man job jockying the tranny around to get the housing onto the engine dowels. It can be done!
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 12, 2011
Got engine, tranny and GV OD in on Sat. and reshim as the . Friend of mine came over last Sat nad he and I got the it all in. Engine went in real easy tranny with GV OD was another story.
Called up GV and went over install and their contridictions in directions made sure it was set right. GV OD directions are not the best and it seems so straight forward on install. ended up taking apart the GV OD after work and reshim. Rearend and rear suspension done last couple of weeks excapt the ARB. 90% wiring done. Took a week off of work to be with kids as they were off of school. My 10 year old sone and I would work all day on this and he is grat at helping out. Currently looking at GV OD and rearend allignment. The GV OD appears to be 1/2-1" out of vertical alignment. Currently have motor mounts loose adjusting and tweaking tranny cross member. Tryign to get a lazer pointer to point straight line to rear yoke to see if it is really off or my eyes are plying tricks on me.
Any ideas on how to adjust if needed vertical position on tranny ? It seems like it ia very very hard to budge left or right Also is it typical for this to be off vertically (left or right)? I assume I want this to be dead on for less angular drive shaft HP loss
I do not like that it being off vertically. Horizontal I figure I wil have to adjust the rear end to get in the 1.5-2.5 degrees downward angle.
Called Denny's today and in que for driveshaft ... Got to get him the measurements, but want it all lined up first. Hoping tomorrow or Wednesday night can work on beefing up the cross member and work out the alignment issues if any. Lots of little things.
After market parts sucks : ) nothing ever lines up or fits right. Seems like simple things take a long time as they need to be messaged and worked over yto fit right
Bowtieman427 said
Apr 27, 2011
It fired up and my son says "Bad Bowtie" lives up to its name. We have been working every night for a month straight to get it going.
Things left todo:
1) waiting on driveshaft
2) Radiator wire in ground for fans H2O test for leaks.
3) ARB on rearend
4) install exhaust may have clearnce issue with tranny cross bar. I hope not.
The engine should be done inthe next month or so.
The next couple of weeks I will be getting into it seriously. So I am planning trying to plan ahead. Figure engien will be done in the next month to 6 weeks.
I hope it warms up. I hate the cold : )
What's your 1st name? I wish we had the option to put that next to our avatar pic (John D......?).
I've attached some pics of the BBC/trans pulls I've done in the past few years (you'll see a trend here!
I usually just remove the hood and that's it. I don't jack up the front end or take it completely off like some of us... (see pic 4)!
A few of us live in the southern metro and have driven further than 60 miles to help other car guys out, so let us know if you need a hand.
Stan
A BB/TH400 combo is about all the compartment will fit. I'm afraid with the extra length and girth of the Gear Vendors, you're gonna need to either pull the core support or put the OD in afterward.
In your case, pulling the support as in Stan's pic #4 may be a very good option. You would be able to push it nearly straight in.
The only member I can think of in your area is Derek. Welcome back.
I may be asking for physical and mental help in the near future : ) if you are up for it.
Dave, I am learning and I am a little slow thanks for reminding me on what I have forgoten. When we get closer. I will be taking orders for Pizza and Beer. I am hoping a Sat will work to get it done : )
Engine is very close to getting done. They called today and need my valve covers. bolts for the intake and see if I have a set of pushrods that will work.
Hey Jim Im one of the south metro guys my car is Stans #4 pic BB Im in if you looking for help!
My conservative SWAG is 650 HP/680 Ft. Lbs. Torque
I'll guess yours at 780hp 720 torque.
Minor problem I see is the if the car does hook off the line frame twist and if it does not hook many sets of tires. With a big HP and TQ available driveline shock may come into play for you. How did you plan to plant all that power on the street?
-- Edited by Dave Seitz on Sunday 6th of February 2011 04
-- Edited by Dave Seitz on Sunday 6th of February 2011 04:20:02 PM
The air shocks won't be conducive to traction either and they usually enhance wheel hop. You may want to look into a set of drag bags for inside the rear springs or coil-overs. Making the kind of power you are talking brings a whole host of issues downstream that get costly to remedy. If you don't abuse the rear axle with really sticky tires a lot, it may hold up fine, but you are really into the range of a Moser nodular 12 bolt or a 9" for strength. If you still have stock axle shafts, seriously consider aftermarket. They are much stronger.
Running a TH-400 w/ a GV-OD you're not going to have to worry about the driveshaft... it'll only be about a foot & 1/2 long
.
-Drive shaft will be shorter and the TH400 should be less stress on Drive Shaft did call up Denny's anyway they reccomend the Nitro. I think it will be less 18-20" shorter then stock. The one issue is it would be spinning very very fast at full speed.
Current setup 12 bolt posi 4.56
I was hoping the BFG street drags would have a lot of give compared to full slicks and issues would be minimum.
Thanks everyone for comments and suggestions. It is so cold in garage my ambition has been low latley.
The best c clip elimination would be to take your rear end out of the car and take it to a rear end shop to have ford ends welded onto it with matching axle shafts to press on ford bearings and seals. We did it on my uncles old 69 chevelle. I think it cost about $700 bucks which included all the labor and the new axles to match everything.
I have not heard good things about the style that has you cut the end of the tube off and bolt them to the existing brake backing plate flange. They seem to be prone to leaking.
If all you have for the frames braces are the stock, stamped pieces, I'd suggest going with the tubular, adjustable ones. I don't think the stamped units are going to help much.
AWESTOME Jim!!!!
And to think I was being 'conservative' with my 650 HP/680 Torque! Looks like Mitch was closer!
I can't wait to hear that thing in person and maybe go for a spin...
-- Edited by 69SSConv on Tuesday 8th of March 2011 03:58:52 PM
OK I know I am revisiting this. I have an aftermarket MOROSO pan it was a little tricky get it out without the tranny, but woroking against gravity figure it may be easier putting in with gravity. How much ceiling cllearance will I need if I go engine and tranny. I have 8 ft ceiling. (Stan it looks like you did not have to get it all that high.
I also know they went in together the first time figure it can happen again : )
How much of a PITA is it to put the tranny in after the engine is in. I am getting real close to putting it in. Finishing up some wiring projects. I may try to get it in this next week or next weekend April 2nd. I still do not have converter or carb back yet. Carb is at the "Carb Shop" in St Paul.
Did you get your headers yet if you did get them in and settle the engine down in between them in one motion. It is a PIA but easier now then later when your trying to twist and tilt and dimple things to fit.
Jim, you should be o.k. with an 8' ceiling, but it will be a little close.
I've installed the engine both with and without the trans attached. I only did it once with just the engine, and then did it with the trans ever since.
It wasn't that bad getting the trans attached after the engine was in, but it is definitely a 2 man job jockying the tranny around to get the housing onto the engine dowels. It can be done!
Called up GV and went over install and their contridictions in directions made sure it was set right. GV OD directions are not the best and it seems so straight forward on install. ended up taking apart the GV OD after work and reshim.
Rearend and rear suspension done last couple of weeks excapt the ARB. 90% wiring done. Took a week off of work to be with kids as they were off of school. My 10 year old sone and I would work all day on this and he is grat at helping out. Currently looking at GV OD and rearend allignment. The GV OD appears to be 1/2-1" out of vertical alignment. Currently have motor mounts loose adjusting and tweaking tranny cross member.
Tryign to get a lazer pointer to point straight line to rear yoke to see if it is really off or my eyes are plying tricks on me.
Any ideas on how to adjust if needed vertical position on tranny ? It seems like it ia very very hard to budge left or right
Also is it typical for this to be off vertically (left or right)? I assume I want this to be dead on for less angular drive shaft HP loss
I do not like that it being off vertically. Horizontal I figure I wil have to adjust the rear end to get in the 1.5-2.5 degrees downward angle.
Called Denny's today and in que for driveshaft ... Got to get him the measurements, but want it all lined up first.
Hoping tomorrow or Wednesday night can work on beefing up the cross member and work out the alignment issues if any.
Lots of little things.
After market parts sucks : ) nothing ever lines up or fits right. Seems like simple things take a long time as they need to be messaged and worked over yto fit right
It fired up and my son says "Bad Bowtie" lives up to its name. We have been working every night for a month straight to get it going.
Things left todo:
1) waiting on driveshaft
2) Radiator wire in ground for fans H2O test for leaks.
3) ARB on rearend
4) install exhaust may have clearnce issue with tranny cross bar. I hope not.
5) Install driveshaft loop
6) May install a switch for fuel pump.
Looks good Jim, that thing is going to be a monster
.