Chevelle is going under the knife SOON. Plans are:

1. Remove the "one wheel peel" 10 bolt
2. Replace with 3.42:1 geared 12 bolt axle
3. Remove front & rear power drum brakes & replace with front Wilwood and rear stock style disc brakes & a new power booster/MC/lines/etc.
4. New 17" wheels & new tires. I'm tired of the 14" and they won't fit anyway.
5. Dial in suspension (may have to suck it up and ask for help!!)

Will keep you updated. :)

Sounds like a plan.  Pics of the wheels you've picked out?

The current 8.5 10 bolt you have is very nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. If you are running a near stock engine it will last a long time. I think you should sell the 12 bolt to me....

Better brakes and wheels/tires are always fun.

Dan, do you already have a 12 bolt?

Saw this on CL:

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/wsh/pts/2086345306.html

Seems o.k. for a good complete housing with brakes but you would need to add gears/posi.

Update, I made a mistake, I decided to go with 3.55:1's and I forgot until I checked my reciept again. Even better. :)

I'll probably be going with chrome Coy's 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 in the rear running 295/45/17 M/T drag radials. They would look like this:



The 12 bolt is already ready to go, I have a spare housing for sale though?? I'll be running a stock style disc setup in the rear. The 10 bolt is coming out, and I'm a bit more power than stock, I currently have a 496ci running on e85. The 10 bolt "one wheel peel" rear is a ticking time bomb (not literally). I also have a much bigger motor in the works....

Derek, would love to have you beat on my car, think it can keep up with yours at the Street Elims next year? LOL, NO WAY I could touch that. Maybe you can help me with suspension setup..

Dan

-- Edited by DNeinstadt on Thursday 2nd of December 2010 01:53:09 PM

Dan, that will look sweet with those rims.  17" rims are just right IMO.  Anything bigger is just too much.  I guess I fall in that 'older guy' group now that doesn't like big rims.  LOL

I'm with Stan - there's something about the "rubber-band on a rim" look that just doesn't make it on a Chevelle... they need some sidewalls showing.
(It took me a long time to convince myself that the low-profile's on my '17s looked "right" - and when it's time for tires I'll step up a notch on sidewall).

just a ? why would you be using drag radials?

They are much softer compound for better traction on the street. Most of the street tires don't hook with any type of power, they just make some sort of weird screetching noise.. Also because I don't drive it in the raid and they will likely last 3-4 years. :) Dan

ok was just wondering. one year at the end of season i left mine on after the drag strip,  drove for about a month. the next year they had no traction at the strip had to get rid of them. found out that they say on tires not to drive on the street it sucks the oils out of  them renders them useless.

Dan, Those wheels will look great! Let me know if you need a hand.

Are your current Cragars 14 or 15"?

-- Edited by Clutch on Friday 3rd of December 2010 11:09:22 PM

I have 14's right now. :)

OK, tearing the old axle out and I have decided to get new control arms. Does anyone have a suggestion for a set of uppers and lowers?

UMI w/ Roto-Joint
Edelbrock w/ spherical joint
Currie w/ Johnny-Joint

-- Edited by Derek69SS on Thursday 13th of January 2011 11:26:57 AM

Lakewood Traction Action for straight line performance...
Oh that's right, you want to drive around those silly cones in a parking lot...