I just bought an old 396 that has been sitting for about 30 yrs.  Something to occupy my time with.  Well I just spent the better part of 3 days trying to tear it apart.  Had to cut the head bolts off  inside the valve cover on  one head to get it off (really rusted).  Had to cut the balancer off.  Getting the crank off was difficult to say the least; but a friend, a bunch of wood blocks and a mall did the trick.  Had to drill, cut, and chisel the rods out of the pistons, then drill, cut, and pound with a steel rod and 5 lb hammer  the pistons out.


Thats where I stopped.  Couldn't get the camshaft  and lifters out.  So I took it to a shop to finish the dismantling process.  They are then going to clean it, and put it in the oven and magnaflux the block and heads. Oh I also couldn't get the valves out; but did get them to move a little.  

Looks like the cylinders will clean up to 30 over, except for one I messed up a little.  Looking for an opinion, should  I would go more or sleeve that 1 cylinder?

Also the crank will have to be turned.  How much can I take off?  Probably going to be a rebuild  with a goal of around 400HP with a pretty much stock rebuild.

Those older block tend to have a lot of meat to them. I would not be afraid to bore it .040 if thats what it takes to clean it up. I would much rather do that then have a sleeve installed those just tend to create problems later in life.

Didn't know they had new piston for 40 over. I saw some for 40 over a 402; but that would actually be 70 over as I am all most sure it was never bored? thanks.

If you pour diesel fuel in the cylinders or use a good rust buster and leave it for a day or so it really helps with the stuck parts.

Tim H wrote:

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If you pour diesel fuel in the cylinders or use a good rust buster and leave it for a day or so it really helps with the stuck parts.

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More than diesel fuel to get this apart.  Finally got everything out, with torching the timing cover, grinding the balancer off, a 10 lb sledge hammer and numerous 6x6wood blocks , torching the inside head bolts on one side, and a big chisel and a 5 lb hammer to know the pistons out.

I think next time I would chisel out the rods pins from the aluminum pistons and then pour some muratic acid down the cylinder wall to eat the rust and free the piston.

The result, one cylinder with a crack, 3 others so badly rusted that .090 would not clean them up.  Just couldn't use it as an anchor for the boat, so we decided to sleeve all 8 back to stock with a 3/32 sleeve. The machines says he has good luck with sleeves, has 2 in his 1200HP race car, they will use special sealant on the one with the crank and pressure test the block. There are now high performance sleeves with a flange at the top; but you need a special cutter for those.   The walls were real thick (all over 300 on sonic test), so that leaves over .210 on all the cylinders plus the sleeve.   I think the guy is giving me a good price.  He had to cut the cam out with a plasma cutter, clean & de- rust  the block, mag it, will  install 8 sleeve, and deck the block.

Steel crank looks like it will clean up. intake is good, as are oil pan, brackets & bolts. Heads will need guides, new vavle seats.  Water pump need to be rebuilt.

 

-- Edited by jim larson on Friday 2nd of July 2010 12:33:29 PM

-- Edited by jim larson on Friday 2nd of July 2010 12:36:26 PM

You probably could've bought a new crate engine for what you'll have in it...

No really and it would be a new engine. Not as much fun and headaches to rebuild.

Hows the GTO coming?

-- Edited by jim larson on Sunday 4th of July 2010 11:08:36 AM

Stand still.........work, yard and no title yet. Title should be here in the next few weeks but no time for it. I took on a job replaceing the front sub-frame on a 69 Camaro with an LS1/T56 combo and rack steering. He may elect to do a 4 link back half and subframe connectors as well and a stainless fuel tank with internal pump. I'll be taking lots of pics of this pro-street type project. It also will generate INCOME for my cars...