The second pick with the black outlining the white stripe I think looks awesome. The white outlining the white not so much.
Larry Lucast said
Oct 19, 2020
I agree with Chris. But it isn't our car.
John D said
Oct 25, 2020
Each "color" add to the job adds $$$ to the overall price guys... It's one more lap around with tape, paper, paint, sanding/prep, etc...!
more ambition than brains said
Oct 25, 2020
Cost is ALWAYS a relevant consideration.
However, you probably only get to do this once.
There is already a significant investment of time and $$$$$ in this beautiful build, try to make it "Just" the way you want it.
Am amazed by your attention to detail and fabrication efforts.
Glad you are almost there.
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 25, 2020
more ambition than brains wrote:
Cost is ALWAYS a relevant consideration.
However, you probably only get to do this once. There is already a significant investment of time and $$$$$ in this beautiful build, try to make it "Just" the way you want it.
Am amazed by your attention to detail and fabrication efforts.
Glad you are almost there.
Karl
I'm with Karl. Don't "regret" not adding that one more trip around later on. You've done a meticulous job of building it, find the extra funds for what you REALLY want and enjoy the results.
I have more "regrets" on the painting of my Chevelle than I care to remember....
John D said
Oct 25, 2020
I hear ya guys...
Personally I'm not a fan of the offset color/divider color on the stripes, so I'll probably not do it.
My worry is that the final color I'll choose will be a 3-stage... no way out of a big upcharge from the original quote!
John D said
Oct 25, 2020
However, you probably only get to do this once.
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 25, 2020
John D wrote:
However, you probably only get to do this once.
His and Hers, or for flipping
Derek69SS said
Oct 26, 2020
Daytona Coupe!?!?!
John D said
Oct 26, 2020
A cookie for Derek!
After a season of driving this beast, I've realized I (we're) getting to be a little "old-fartish", and really do appreciate the comforts that an enclosed car can offer. Don't get me wrong, the Roadster is the most fun you'll ever have with your clothes on, but the planning, logistics, and restrictions put a damper on the potential activities - especially in our climate.
There are soft tops available, but they are not a "real" convertible top. It's either on or off, and all's they do is get you less wet. When it's "off", it's either at home or taking 80% of your already minimal cargo space. The wind buffeting is also fatiguing.
I'll keep #9365 for awhile after paint, but then probably sell it to fund a Daytona Coupe project.
Derek69SS said
Oct 27, 2020
Then a GT-40 after that?
Does the Daytona Coupe have enough room for an HVAC system? Or is there enough airflow in the closed cockpit to be comfortable?
more ambition than brains said
Oct 27, 2020
Now the Budget takes priority.
Like real estate, only invest in what the "masses" will pay for.
No Gold faucets, crazy colors or swimming pools.
Cars are the same.
For many of us the real fun is the creation of our dream, not necessarily using it.
However it is nice to be able to do both.
On to the next dream
Good catch Derek.
Karl
-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Tuesday 27th of October 2020 09:16:31 AM
John D said
Oct 28, 2020
The Daytona is outfitted with a full HVAC system, but lacks "real" functional windows... more like lexan panels with sliders.
John D said
Jan 11, 2021
Been a long while since an update... October of 2020
Last real news was the trip to Indiana to drop the car off at "My Body & Paint Guy" - Jeff Kleiner. Even though our schedules meshed (as far as me getting there and him being there), my spot in his queue wasn't up yet. He was doing final cut & buff on a body, then re-assemble, then another entire car, then mine. Throw Christmas & New Year in there and we're to present day.
Like most places, he's got several balls in the air at once, and jumps back & forth between cars - so #9365 wasn't totally ignored. He started dis-assembly (trim, brightwork, windshield, etc.) as time permitted to get ready for rough bodywork.
The 2nd car was completed, and 9365 could finally move into the "dirty room". The body was pulled from the frame, the rough cutting (trimming the wheel & grille openings), and body seam sanding work done. The 1st coats of "mud" went on last week.
-- Edited by John D on Monday 11th of January 2021 05:25:22 PM
"He was doing final cut & buff on a body, then re-assemble, then another entire car, then mine. Throw Christmas & New Year in there and we're to present day."
"The body was pulled from the frame, the rough cutting (trimming the wheel & grille openings), and body seam sanding work done. The 1st coats of "mud" went on last week."
WOW, he really moves along, to get all that done in 3 months. The guy I took my Chevelle to in Virginia had it for 4 months and NEVER touched it, until I said I was coming to take it back.
You'll be heading back down in another 6-8 weeks to retrieve it.
John D said
Jan 11, 2021
Jeff has a distinct advantage... He only does FFR cars, primarily Roadsters - and this is all he does. He's a one-man shop too.
He knows all the sore spots, what & where needs attention, and when you contact him for a time-slot you get a laundry-list of "DON'T DO THIS, DON'T DO THAT... I'll take care of it". (He doesn't have to do a lot of re-work).
BLyke said
Jan 14, 2021
Good to see it is progressing!
John D said
Jan 17, 2021
Progress Report
The body is back on the chassis. Jeff's starting door, hood, and trunk fitment. All panel gaps & fit need to be done with the body on the chassis, with it torqued/tweaked as it will ultimately wind up, so the hinged panels will line up at final assembly. The other variable is this allows for you to torque/tweak the body in certain areas to get the doors to fit well.
One of the key elements for body fitment on a FFR MkIV is the front attachment of the "QuickJack" plates, Bumperettes, or (now) the Bumperette/Hoop assembly. The through-bolts/sleeves for these, with rubber grommets in the body pretty much locate the nose of the car. There are rubber blocks on the engine compartment side rails (concealed by the hood opening lip) that establish the nose height, but the bumper bolts lock the side-to-side.
Up until a few weeks ago, the oval hoop was it's own piece. There was a flat metal flange/strap welded to where the ellipses meet, and you drilled & bolted to the sides of the bumperettes. FFR changed the design and made the hoop & bumperettes one piece (the hoop is welded onto the bumperettes). I've got the "New & Improved", waited better part of 18 mos. for it, and it's probably a low number in the 1st batch of accepted parts by FFR.
There's good & bad to the one-piece design. The good is it's much cleaner looking, without the exposed mounting(s). The bad is you lose a lot of potential "fudge-ing" possibilities to get it to fit right and be square to the nose.
The part that is giving Jeff fits is... (and this is all FFR Roadsters, not just mine) the nose opening isn't perfectly symmetrical, nor is it square/perpendicular to the car centerline. The bumper hoop fore/aft to nose distance & squareness is established by shimming (washers) under any of the 4 protruding bolts... but if you change the up/down or left/right of the bolts you affect the alignment of the nose of the car to the chassis... See where this is going? At best the fitment will be a compromise of best appearance. No way around it.
Pics are of initial bolt-on of the bumper assembly. I'm guessing the bumper(hoop) will be out further from the nose, at that optical illusion sweet-spot where you really can't tell the nose isn't perpendicular or is it the bumper, or is it the... ??
Hood & trunk lid are now on, adjusted, shaped and gapped and the windshield is installed. I'll put the sidepipes on in the AM to recheck their fit, set the scoop and at that point the mockup will be done...then it all comes apart again."
Lost in the 60s said
Jan 20, 2021
Have you picked a color yet ??? looks like you don't have much more time to decide...
John D said
Jan 20, 2021
I think we've narrowed it down to 3 contenders...
The objective was a coppery/burnt orange - that would "POP" in sunlight, but not go to "Mud" in shadow... but not into the tangerine orange end of things. The stripes would be an off-white, with a hint of pearl. He's got a favorite pearl white he's used on many cars, so I'll trust his judgement on that.
The pic of the Roadster is one he did a few years ago (I don't know the color name). The SUV is Nissan's "Monarch Orange", and the Challenger is "Sinamon Stick".
Once I narrow it down he'll shoot a few test panels and send them to me.
(The 2020 Hellcat "Sinamon Stick" is a top contender right now)
Hellcat is a nice color. Can you find a pic of one in sunlight to see how far it washes out, like the Nissan ? I like the Nissan, but would need the pearl toned down, so it doesn't go so yellow.
I found one. It does go lighter. Seems to be rather dark without bright light. I've been looking at this same color palate for the '38 for 3 years now and it is very hard to pick one...
John D said
Jan 21, 2021
Geez Mitch... You're throwing crazy body-guy JuJu to Indiana. Latest pics from Jeff:
The Nissan "Monarch Orange" doesn't do it. It goes too yellow in bright light.
The following Roadster pics are of the car Jeff did awhile ago... it's a Dodge color "Mango Tango". A little more on the brown-side (in shadow) of the Hellcat "Sinamon". I think some test panels are in order...
-- Edited by John D on Thursday 21st of January 2021 05:11:10 PM
I've seen Mango Tango on a couple street rods and it's a cool color...
Larry Lucast said
Jan 21, 2021
I have firmly decided to paint my 79 Malibu some shade of green. Unless I change my mind. I like all of those samples you posted so now the color question is open again.
John D said
Jan 24, 2021
Update...
Panel fitting & Gapping is done. Witness marks & attachment points established (so the body will go back on the chassis in the same place) and it's "lift off". The next time the body will meet the chassis is after color for final fitment.
Had a call from Jeft after lunchtime today...
He complimented me on the build quality, and ease of dis-assembly/no surprises/service-ability aspect of the car.
During my body fitment stages I called him several times for "coaching" as to what to do to minimize rework, and make it easier - his tips paid off.
As it turns out, my initial body fitment attachments (rocker area) were nearly perfect - he just elongated my original mounting holes slightly. The nose height of the car was off, but nothing easily corrected (didn't have to rebuild the bumper holes). The rear of the car is +/- a 1/16" of my as-delivered - again, just elongating my holes.
What I'll take away from this is to share and talk to whomever is going to do your final bodywork & paint (if you're not doing it yourself). Also, find "A Guy" that specializes in your car. They know the faults. Pain in the azz for convenience - Yes/High. Anxiety level of leaving "your baby" 600+ miles away with an unknown - High. Cost of the work - High. Final result payoff - worth the trouble.
I've narrowed it down to "Mango Tango" or "Sinamon Stick", with his "Go To" favorite off-white pearl for the stripes.
Jeff's going to get a few ounces of each mixed up, shoot 'em, and send me some test samples.
Larry Lucast said
Jan 24, 2021
I am not the least surprised that he thought so much of your build quality. Everything else of yours has been near-perfect.
more ambition than brains said
Jan 25, 2021
For the "GUY" it must be a "Labor of Love" just like the builder. (YOU)
Great outcomes are provided by people that really care, and love their work,
You also gave him an unmolested project, well crafted, with sins if manufacture consistent with other vehicles he has done.
He sees them in his sleep.
Wise words John.
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Jan 25, 2021
I'm happy for you that Jeff is a man of his word and got right on your car.
Your perfectionism has, most likely, helped motivate him to excel also. When he has a vehicle that doesn't need a ton of baby sitting a poor build, he can make better use of his time and quicker progress. I believe the final product will be top notch.
My experience with a well renowned '66-67 Chevelle restoration expert wasn't the same. My car was more 1,000 miles away and didn't get touched for 4 months, after he agreed on drop off day to have it done in 2. I had no idea if the car or the many thousands of dollars of NOS parts I had left in his care even existed anymore. After 4 months of silence and excuses, I informed him I was coming to get it back and he, then, made a hurried, half hearted effort at painting the interior very poorly. This "guy" has awards for 100 point restorations and high dollar clients. Guess my car wasn't worthy of his time or having his name associated with it.
John D said
Jan 25, 2021
As of late, Jeff is booked out into spring of 2022.
If you want him to "do" your car, he requests you call and get a timeslot when you open your 1st box after delivery. He goes upon the timeline that anyone with reasonable skills can screw one of these together in 12 - 14 months. If you're not ready when your slot comes up you go to the end of the line - no exceptions.
We were chatting yesterday, and he's started on the car behind mine - letting my body off-gas/cure/dry/whatever the fillers need for awhile. The car behind me was delivered "Runs Great"... a little tidbit of info was left out - Runs great, but it didn't MOVE under it's own power properly! The clutch was mis-adjusted and not disengaging. Jeff had the guy wrenching on it in his driveway, doing something that should have been done long ago during go-kart phase and trials!
Quite frankly I don't think he charges enough for the work and little "extras" he throws into each car he does. An example: We were talking about final color. I was relating that I need to get busy about my final choice(s), and getting some pics of cars to Design Consultant Sheryl... his reply:
"If you (and your consultant) would like for me to spray some actual samples let me know. Probably about $50 in material for 2 samples... and since you haven't been a pain in the ass I won't charge for labor".
Lost in the 60s said
Jan 25, 2021
"and since you haven't been a pain in the ass I won't charge for labor".
Gotta love it, you aren't calling every day asking " is it done yet ???"
Yeah, 1/2 PINT of paint is usually $25-30, plus whatever he needs to mix in. He's doing this very reasonably for you.
John D said
Jan 26, 2021
Mon 01/26 Update: One of the things I'd asked of him is an occasional photo or two during the process(s) of body prep & paint. His response was "I'm not a photographer..." and this sentence kinda trailed off. I said "I don't want a step-by-step documentation, just a shot now & then would be great".
Anyway... Final sanding is uncovering some "blowouts". What begins as a small speck (like the 1st photo) turns into a hole (like the 2nd). Better to find them now rather than after spending a day in the sun after paint!!
Jeff told me that FFR only makes the doors, hood, and trunk "in-house". The bodies are made at a local boat company using FFR molds. The bodies would NEVER pass muster as a finished boat, and I'm convinced that it's the mold quality (and partially the lay-up) that dictates the final outcome. The last two through the shop were Monday & Friday cars! From what he's said I must have gotten a Wednesday car ... so far minimal "blowouts" and good seam alignment. FFR states very clearly in the build manual that the car will take an experienced person at least 40 hours of bodywork time. I guess this is why it's a $20,000 kit, not a $40,000 kit.
Got a few more pics from Jeff, and a neat little box in the mail.
No, there wasn't murder & mayhem at his shop, just a trip to the house after sanding red gel-coat!
The body & doors are ready for high-build primer. (I believe he uses a product called "Slick Sand"). My car is the one that just got a bath, the next one in progress to the right, and his car as a parts shelf(!).
The little box was my paint test panels. He also included two whites for stripe examples (not shown). If Mother Nature cooperates and we get some good sunshine I'll get some good pics in natural light.
That would be fun to just wash sanding dust off a car and not have it instantly rust.
Sample on left the Mango Tango ?
John D said
Jan 31, 2021
On the Left = MangoTango
On the Right = Sinamon Stick
(both are Chrysler colors)
John D said
Jan 31, 2021
Well, to be compliant with the recent changes in our society, I had a 180 turn as to my color choice. I need my car to "identify" and be more compassionate with it's less powerful & less agile siblings.
This is actually the 1st coat of a new product from Evercoat (makers of Rage filler, Slick Sand, etc.). Jeff's wanted to try it out for some time now. It's a 4:1 mix with catalyst as opposed to 50:1 for Slick Sand. It also builds up to 8 mils per coat vs. 6.
More coverage per dollar. He says he likes spraying it, but the jury's out until he starts sanding.
(He posted this on FB and the FFR Forum with no explanation other than "I just sprayed this today... don't judge". It has generated a LOT of comments!)
I hope it doesn't affect the color of the final paint.
dashboard said
Jan 31, 2021
Looks like a new neutral Jellybean color. Getting close JD.
Derek69SS said
Feb 1, 2021
I see you've added a hood scoop! I agree with that decision.
John D said
Feb 2, 2021
Yea... As a "427" replica it just doesn't work without a hole in the hood. If it was a "slab-side/early" 289 car then no scoop.
I'm kicking around a few ideas to use the air intake to feed the heater plenum. Kinda like cowl-induction to the carb, but not. It'd be nice to have some cool "ram-air" pushing through the ductwork, instead of pre-heated engine compartment fumes. The extra/blow-by would shove underhood hot air out the side louvers.
John D said
Feb 5, 2021
Update 02/05
The funny pink primer/surfacer is all blocked and sanded. It does a color change to gray during this... weird.
I got outside this afternoon and shot some pics of the test panels. Sunlight/Shadow/Inbetween/whatever. The camera did some funky thing occasionally and the snow went blue, but they show what the colors do in varying light.
My choice is swaying to "Mango Tango". The "Sinamon Stick" just goes too red/brown in shadow for me.
Some of these are too orange, some too brown, but it could be the lighting... This is the general idea however
The second pick with the black outlining the white stripe I think looks awesome. The white outlining the white not so much.
However, you probably only get to do this once.
There is already a significant investment of time and $$$$$ in this beautiful build, try to make it "Just" the way you want it.
Am amazed by your attention to detail and fabrication efforts.
Glad you are almost there.
Karl
I'm with Karl. Don't "regret" not adding that one more trip around later on. You've done a meticulous job of building it, find the extra funds for what you REALLY want and enjoy the results.
I have more "regrets" on the painting of my Chevelle than I care to remember....
Personally I'm not a fan of the offset color/divider color on the stripes, so I'll probably not do it.
My worry is that the final color I'll choose will be a 3-stage... no way out of a big upcharge from the original quote!
His and Hers, or for flipping
Daytona Coupe!?!?!
After a season of driving this beast, I've realized I (we're) getting to be a little "old-fartish", and really do appreciate the comforts that an enclosed car can offer. Don't get me wrong, the Roadster is the most fun you'll ever have with your clothes on, but the planning, logistics, and restrictions put a damper on the potential activities - especially in our climate.
There are soft tops available, but they are not a "real" convertible top. It's either on or off, and all's they do is get you less wet. When it's "off", it's either at home or taking 80% of your already minimal cargo space. The wind buffeting is also fatiguing.
I'll keep #9365 for awhile after paint, but then probably sell it to fund a Daytona Coupe project.
Then a GT-40 after that?
Does the Daytona Coupe have enough room for an HVAC system? Or is there enough airflow in the closed cockpit to be comfortable?
Now the Budget takes priority.
Like real estate, only invest in what the "masses" will pay for.
No Gold faucets, crazy colors or swimming pools.
Cars are the same.
For many of us the real fun is the creation of our dream, not necessarily using it.
However it is nice to be able to do both.
On to the next dream
Good catch Derek.
Karl
-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Tuesday 27th of October 2020 09:16:31 AM
Been a long while since an update... October of 2020
Last real news was the trip to Indiana to drop the car off at "My Body & Paint Guy" - Jeff Kleiner. Even though our schedules meshed (as far as me getting there and him being there), my spot in his queue wasn't up yet. He was doing final cut & buff on a body, then re-assemble, then another entire car, then mine. Throw Christmas & New Year in there and we're to present day.
Like most places, he's got several balls in the air at once, and jumps back & forth between cars - so #9365 wasn't totally ignored. He started dis-assembly (trim, brightwork, windshield, etc.) as time permitted to get ready for rough bodywork.
The 2nd car was completed, and 9365 could finally move into the "dirty room". The body was pulled from the frame, the rough cutting (trimming the wheel & grille openings), and body seam sanding work done. The 1st coats of "mud" went on last week.
-- Edited by John D on Monday 11th of January 2021 05:25:22 PM
"The body was pulled from the frame, the rough cutting (trimming the wheel & grille openings), and body seam sanding work done. The 1st coats of "mud" went on last week."
WOW, he really moves along, to get all that done in 3 months. The guy I took my Chevelle to in Virginia had it for 4 months and NEVER touched it, until I said I was coming to take it back.
You'll be heading back down in another 6-8 weeks to retrieve it.
He knows all the sore spots, what & where needs attention, and when you contact him for a time-slot you get a laundry-list of "DON'T DO THIS, DON'T DO THAT... I'll take care of it". (He doesn't have to do a lot of re-work).
Progress Report
The body is back on the chassis. Jeff's starting door, hood, and trunk fitment. All panel gaps & fit need to be done with the body on the chassis, with it torqued/tweaked as it will ultimately wind up, so the hinged panels will line up at final assembly. The other variable is this allows for you to torque/tweak the body in certain areas to get the doors to fit well.
One of the key elements for body fitment on a FFR MkIV is the front attachment of the "QuickJack" plates, Bumperettes, or (now) the Bumperette/Hoop assembly. The through-bolts/sleeves for these, with rubber grommets in the body pretty much locate the nose of the car. There are rubber blocks on the engine compartment side rails (concealed by the hood opening lip) that establish the nose height, but the bumper bolts lock the side-to-side.
Up until a few weeks ago, the oval hoop was it's own piece. There was a flat metal flange/strap welded to where the ellipses meet, and you drilled & bolted to the sides of the bumperettes. FFR changed the design and made the hoop & bumperettes one piece (the hoop is welded onto the bumperettes). I've got the "New & Improved", waited better part of 18 mos. for it, and it's probably a low number in the 1st batch of accepted parts by FFR.
There's good & bad to the one-piece design. The good is it's much cleaner looking, without the exposed mounting(s). The bad is you lose a lot of potential "fudge-ing" possibilities to get it to fit right and be square to the nose.
The part that is giving Jeff fits is... (and this is all FFR Roadsters, not just mine) the nose opening isn't perfectly symmetrical, nor is it square/perpendicular to the car centerline. The bumper hoop fore/aft to nose distance & squareness is established by shimming (washers) under any of the 4 protruding bolts... but if you change the up/down or left/right of the bolts you affect the alignment of the nose of the car to the chassis... See where this is going? At best the fitment will be a compromise of best appearance. No way around it.
Pics are of initial bolt-on of the bumper assembly. I'm guessing the bumper(hoop) will be out further from the nose, at that optical illusion sweet-spot where you really can't tell the nose isn't perpendicular or is it the bumper, or is it the... ??
Just Bangin' along...
Latest pics from Jeff. As you can see there's quite a bit of work blending the body edge to the door, and the door upper to the cowl.
Geez... does this guy sleep?!
Just a few minutes ago....
"John,
Hood & trunk lid are now on, adjusted, shaped and gapped and the windshield is installed. I'll put the sidepipes on in the AM to recheck their fit, set the scoop and at that point the mockup will be done...then it all comes apart again."
Have you picked a color yet ??? looks like you don't have much more time to decide...
I think we've narrowed it down to 3 contenders...
The objective was a coppery/burnt orange - that would "POP" in sunlight, but not go to "Mud" in shadow... but not into the tangerine orange end of things. The stripes would be an off-white, with a hint of pearl. He's got a favorite pearl white he's used on many cars, so I'll trust his judgement on that.
The pic of the Roadster is one he did a few years ago (I don't know the color name). The SUV is Nissan's "Monarch Orange", and the Challenger is "Sinamon Stick".
Once I narrow it down he'll shoot a few test panels and send them to me.
(The 2020 Hellcat "Sinamon Stick" is a top contender right now)
Hellcat is a nice color. Can you find a pic of one in sunlight to see how far it washes out, like the Nissan ? I like the Nissan, but would need the pearl toned down, so it doesn't go so yellow.
I found one. It does go lighter. Seems to be rather dark without bright light. I've been looking at this same color palate for the '38 for 3 years now and it is very hard to pick one...
Geez Mitch... You're throwing crazy body-guy JuJu to Indiana. Latest pics from Jeff:
More Pics:
The Nissan "Monarch Orange" doesn't do it. It goes too yellow in bright light.
The following Roadster pics are of the car Jeff did awhile ago... it's a Dodge color "Mango Tango". A little more on the brown-side (in shadow) of the Hellcat "Sinamon". I think some test panels are in order...
-- Edited by John D on Thursday 21st of January 2021 05:11:10 PM
I've seen Mango Tango on a couple street rods and it's a cool color...
Update...
Panel fitting & Gapping is done. Witness marks & attachment points established (so the body will go back on the chassis in the same place) and it's "lift off". The next time the body will meet the chassis is after color for final fitment.
DANG, it's like 3 pm on December 24th...
He complimented me on the build quality, and ease of dis-assembly/no surprises/service-ability aspect of the car.
During my body fitment stages I called him several times for "coaching" as to what to do to minimize rework, and make it easier - his tips paid off.
As it turns out, my initial body fitment attachments (rocker area) were nearly perfect - he just elongated my original mounting holes slightly. The nose height of the car was off, but nothing easily corrected (didn't have to rebuild the bumper holes). The rear of the car is +/- a 1/16" of my as-delivered - again, just elongating my holes.
What I'll take away from this is to share and talk to whomever is going to do your final bodywork & paint (if you're not doing it yourself). Also, find "A Guy" that specializes in your car. They know the faults. Pain in the azz for convenience - Yes/High. Anxiety level of leaving "your baby" 600+ miles away with an unknown - High. Cost of the work - High. Final result payoff - worth the trouble.
I've narrowed it down to "Mango Tango" or "Sinamon Stick", with his "Go To" favorite off-white pearl for the stripes.
Jeff's going to get a few ounces of each mixed up, shoot 'em, and send me some test samples.
For the "GUY" it must be a "Labor of Love" just like the builder. (YOU)
Great outcomes are provided by people that really care, and love their work,
You also gave him an unmolested project, well crafted, with sins if manufacture consistent with other vehicles he has done.
He sees them in his sleep.
Wise words John.
Karl
Your perfectionism has, most likely, helped motivate him to excel also. When he has a vehicle that doesn't need a ton of baby sitting a poor build, he can make better use of his time and quicker progress. I believe the final product will be top notch.
My experience with a well renowned '66-67 Chevelle restoration expert wasn't the same. My car was more 1,000 miles away and didn't get touched for 4 months, after he agreed on drop off day to have it done in 2. I had no idea if the car or the many thousands of dollars of NOS parts I had left in his care even existed anymore. After 4 months of silence and excuses, I informed him I was coming to get it back and he, then, made a hurried, half hearted effort at painting the interior very poorly. This "guy" has awards for 100 point restorations and high dollar clients. Guess my car wasn't worthy of his time or having his name associated with it.
If you want him to "do" your car, he requests you call and get a timeslot when you open your 1st box after delivery. He goes upon the timeline that anyone with reasonable skills can screw one of these together in 12 - 14 months. If you're not ready when your slot comes up you go to the end of the line - no exceptions.
We were chatting yesterday, and he's started on the car behind mine - letting my body off-gas/cure/dry/whatever the fillers need for awhile. The car behind me was delivered "Runs Great"... a little tidbit of info was left out - Runs great, but it didn't MOVE under it's own power properly! The clutch was mis-adjusted and not disengaging. Jeff had the guy wrenching on it in his driveway, doing something that should have been done long ago during go-kart phase and trials!
Quite frankly I don't think he charges enough for the work and little "extras" he throws into each car he does. An example: We were talking about final color. I was relating that I need to get busy about my final choice(s), and getting some pics of cars to Design Consultant Sheryl... his reply:
"If you (and your consultant) would like for me to spray some actual samples let me know. Probably about $50 in material for 2 samples... and since you haven't been a pain in the ass I won't charge for labor".
"and since you haven't been a pain in the ass I won't charge for labor".
Gotta love it, you aren't calling every day asking " is it done yet ???"
Yeah, 1/2 PINT of paint is usually $25-30, plus whatever he needs to mix in. He's doing this very reasonably for you.
Mon 01/26 Update:
One of the things I'd asked of him is an occasional photo or two during the process(s) of body prep & paint. His response was "I'm not a photographer..." and this sentence kinda trailed off. I said "I don't want a step-by-step documentation, just a shot now & then would be great".
Anyway...
Jeff told me that FFR only makes the doors, hood, and trunk "in-house". The bodies are made at a local boat company using FFR molds. The bodies would NEVER pass muster as a finished boat, and I'm convinced that it's the mold quality (and partially the lay-up) that dictates the final outcome. The last two through the shop were Monday & Friday cars!
From what he's said I must have gotten a Wednesday car 
... so far minimal "blowouts" and good seam alignment. FFR states very clearly in the build manual that the car will take an experienced person at least 40 hours of bodywork time. I guess this is why it's a $20,000 kit, not a $40,000 kit.
Got a few more pics from Jeff, and a neat little box in the mail.
No, there wasn't murder & mayhem at his shop, just a trip to the house after sanding red gel-coat!
The body & doors are ready for high-build primer. (I believe he uses a product called "Slick Sand"). My car is the one that just got a bath, the next one in progress to the right, and his car as a parts shelf(!).
The little box was my paint test panels. He also included two whites for stripe examples (not shown). If Mother Nature cooperates and we get some good sunshine I'll get some good pics in natural light.
Sample on left the Mango Tango ?
On the Right = Sinamon Stick
(both are Chrysler colors)
Well, to be compliant with the recent changes in our society, I had a 180 turn as to my color choice. I need my car to "identify" and be more compassionate with it's less powerful & less agile siblings.
More coverage per dollar. He says he likes spraying it, but the jury's out until he starts sanding.
(He posted this on FB and the FFR Forum with no explanation other than "I just sprayed this today... don't judge". It has generated a LOT of comments!)
I KNEW the first line was major BS....
I hope it doesn't affect the color of the final paint.
I see you've added a hood scoop!
I agree with that decision.
I'm kicking around a few ideas to use the air intake to feed the heater plenum. Kinda like cowl-induction to the carb, but not. It'd be nice to have some cool "ram-air" pushing through the ductwork, instead of pre-heated engine compartment fumes. The extra/blow-by would shove underhood hot air out the side louvers.
Update 02/05
The funny pink primer/surfacer is all blocked and sanded. It does a color change to gray during this... weird.
I got outside this afternoon and shot some pics of the test panels. Sunlight/Shadow/Inbetween/whatever. The camera did some funky thing occasionally and the snow went blue, but they show what the colors do in varying light.
My choice is swaying to "Mango Tango". The "Sinamon Stick" just goes too red/brown in shadow for me.
Thoughts?
You ordering Blizzaks and chains for that thing?
Did you order the "all Wheel Drive" option?
Sounds like you have a plan!
Karl