Derek69SS wrote:

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Strato bench in an elky was a cool idea. I really like that!!!

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 He may have started a "trend"...

Yea, that looks pretty fantastic for sure. Did El Camino have medallions on the seat like Chevelles had?

I am guessing all Bucket seats on Malibus' and SS cars had the block medallions.
Don't remember for sure.
This seat was out of a Pontiac B-Body as they did NOT have that option in the A- Body Chevelle.
If I remember the Blue temporary bench seat had them also.
Ron wanted to commandeer them, I vetoed it.

The dash already had too much "bling"

This stuff is really fun when things start coming together.

Karl

Made it from CLA to Farmington under its' own power.

Has been several years since it was on the road.

AC held vacuum, still need to remove compressor add oil, reinstall and charge.

Ron will be fitting seat, then it will go back for headliner etc.

Still need to Ziebart frame and 1/4 panels.

Then, detail, tweak, and more detail.

Karl

Ron must have been giddy with excitement after that drive...

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Still need to Ziebart frame and 1/4 panels.

Karl

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Karl, I'm curious why the frame and 1/4 panels need to go be Ziebarted since it won't be driven in inclement weather I'm guessing?

Seat looks pretty good in car.
Going back for headliner and carpet this week, hopefully.

Love the Strato Bench! Perfect seat for an El Camino.

Looks sporty with the armrest down, but with practicality of having room for a 3rd person if ever needed.

I like it!  I wish my bench had an armrest lots of times when driving.

I just saw this on a Chevelle FB for sale page in PA for $550:

Here ya go, Stan. About the same as shipping alone would be for the Strato.
https://classicconsoles.com/product/bd-drinkster-bench-seat-console/

Looks great Ron.  I haven’t found any thing for either of my 66’s with original buckets and bench

Thanks for your interest in this stuff, it is fun.

Looks like an Oldsmobile B-Body seat

Curious to know if it has the lock button in the center of the backrest.
Rare with the headrests.
Probably an OK price considering the current markets and the limited production of the seat.

Maybe some beanbag chairs would be more affordable.

Ours was 66 Pontiac B-Body as stated.
I have seen or owned two others.
Mine, 68 Caprice full power, sold with a car package several years ago.
The other was a 67 Caprice I picked up in Woodbury and delivered to a guy out East when I was on one of my road trips years ago.

G-Body ElCaminos had some split bench/armrest options.

Plan on setting Blue Elky body back on frame this weekend. Ron plans on attacking that project as my $$ (cash flow) allows.

Wiring, need to buy Vintage air A/c unit or similar, probably going Dakota Digital on Dash Cluster.

Still need to refabricate Cadillac center console and shift cable for 700R4.

Plenty to do.

Sold LT-4 Vette yesterday, ITZHIZZ collector plate is now registered to Blue Elky. Traditional ITZHERZ plate still on 2010 Blue Camaro.

Waiting on Metro Upholstery to clear up schedule for balance of white Elky interior install.

Just keep chugging along.

Karl

BLUE CAR.

FRAMED!!

I love that blue color!    But then I'm partial to blue cars.

That's one Elky that I'd be proud to drive.  

Have been remiss with posts.

Frame and body are paired, need to fix one body mount. Ordered and received Vintage Air unit, Ron has been playing with that.

He was on vacation the last two weeks, (use it or lose it) wipers and related cowl stuff installed. Door trim and mirrors installed, power window regulators reconditioned. Right side bed rail (NOS) installed.

Left side NOS has an issue need to get to a stainless specialist. Core support assembled, populated, including A/C condenser.

OPGI has been great in plugging some inventory holes.  Have new door harnesses on order and some run channels. Going with an aftermarket rear bumper, replating has become an astronomic expense.

I have several cores. Waited too long, and Ron used some of my singles inventory on the White El Camino. (first come, first served) 

Ron is on a Mission to complete so he can play with the 1956 Convert burned car.

Some Pictures:

We blacked out the grille more than factory, used my best one. Ron bought new for his.

More progress Blue Elky.

Made a trip to Dillon radiator in Rochester to pick up cooling module for the Elky.

Switching to Big, Aluminum, Spaal fans.

My stock recored radiator ended up in white Elky. Ron was busy this week also, doors are going together, we replaced vent window seals, he assembled all glass, and misc. window hardware. Regulators are installed also window belt trim.

Pictures

Starting to resemble a car.

More Pictures.

Smugglers lid, taillights.

Moving on to seats, console, interior.

Working diligently on interior.

Seats and console from 1991 Cadillac Eldorado, my late wife Vickie had one, and we really liked the size and comfort of seats.

They are similar to the stock Astro Buckets in appearance.

Mounting brackets for Chevelle buckets were modified to fit seats and floor, console brackets were harvested and modified to fit floor.

3-point seat belts from 80s square body Blazer.

I had also purchased and scrapped a wrecked 91 Eldorado with Black interior to supplement the blue ones I kept when we disposed of Vickies' 91 Eldorado.

Multiple wiring harnesses were also acquired, and one set modified and rewired to work.

Power switches from 80s Gm.

Multiple spares for everything scavenged from U-Pull in Rosemount, I was a frequent flyer for several years.

Now cut and extend console slightly and figure out shift cable.

Eldorado was front wheel drive, overdrive, Elky is 700R4, should be interesting.

As you know this vehicle has been in process for now, 30 years, as it was started in the winter 30 years ago.

We remember this, as it was taken apart about the same time my first Grandchild was born, she turns 30 this month.

Also need to make a decision on leather upholstery, or not

It has been at least 20 years since the seats were fitted and wiring built.

Had to dig through 7 different storage Tubs and boxes to find all the pieces.

Total Easter Egg Hunt, as this stuff has all been repacked and moved several times.

30 years is a LOOOOOOONG time.  Thanks to Ron and his significant efforts things are on the move.

Weekly and bi-weekly orders for odds and ends required to assemble this project.

Engine was even in Biskwik for a while.

A couple more pictures:

One of my cats guarding the new brake booster.  one fender downstairs and unwrapped after 4-5 years

Vintage Air going in. 

Thanks Mitch, for the help on compression fitting clamp. 

Showed off Rons' control reassembly at the Club gathering.

Some pictures;

Ready for summer heat?  Don’t  know if this is relevant or not.  But a TC member said I should lay the inner fender up on the tire before I bolt up the front fender instead of trying to roll it in after fender is in place.

I usually fit fender to cowl and rocker.

Remove wheel and tire assembly Battery tray.

Leave core support loose.

Ron just had to load core support for mockup of all mechanicals and radiator.

Because of all the non-oem parts, radiator, electric fans and all air-conditioning hardware needing to be test fit and, in some areas, cut to fit. the approach is a little out of sequence.

Usually, bare core support, then fenders, bare, fit to cowl.

Install hood hinges, hood without latch striker.

Only parts on core support would be front hood adjustment bolts/bumpers.

Then final fit fenders, hood, cowl top panel and refine all gaps with suspension loaded.

With care, wheelhouse will slide into place easily after exterior sheet metal is in place and secure.

Leave core support loose on frame and upper fender bolts barely snug to core support.

Make sure all cage nuts are clean, lubed, and centered in their correct locations on fender and wheelhouse.

Normally the only thing on core support would be center grille support and upper grille tie bar.

NO headlamp mounts, lamps or any trim.

No lower painted valance installed until wheel housings are in place and "soft" fitted to fenders and core support.

All fasteners for wheel house should be 2-4 threads in, not tight, then Valance, lamp mountings, upper tie bar can be "soft" fitted.

Center grille support, and lower latch centered and fully tightened, loosely install hood striker, lightly snug to hood panel, leave lock nut for pin backed off a bit until hood latch is lined up to latch.

The pin should only be touching latch at rear of pin, not front or sides.

Smear thick axel grease on pin to verify pin location in lower latch.

It should only make contact with the release, not touch any of the sides or front of lower latch.

Shift pin and mounting plate as needed to fit hole.

Once positioned and tightened the pin can be adjusted to secure hood.

Do not tighten pin lock nut or side bumper lock nuts until you are satisfied with sheet metal fit.

Now you can torque all soft fit bolts/parts.

Sorry about the font change, it does not hold well when correcting my continual typos and fat finger errors.

I prefer to have wheels off, jack stands under frame for full access to adjust, then load suspension prior to final adjustments and tightening.

Sorry so long but took the opportunity for front Sheetmetal 101

Karl

Thanks Karl.  When Mitch and I took the fenders off the core support,etc was left on.  Hood, bumper and valance were removed.  I thought that might be. The best way to get things back where they came from factors, except I had to try an adjust the door since I had the lower driver hinge was being replace.

My adjustments are not that great, but pretty close to where they were from the factory.  I don’t think the factory did a good job.  Once I get the dash in and wiring hooked up and front bumper on the car should be drivable.

Ron is assembling dash, working on wiring and finishing all A/C and Heater hose hookups.

Ordered some different elbow fittings for Vintage Air system.

They should be here tomorrow.

Looking for thoughts on the re-wire.

Under hood will be mostly stock, factory wires with minor modifications.

Dash is another story.

Vintage Air controls, Custom Auto Sound Radio and Dakota Digital fancy gauge cluster, along with the needed relays, control units, for these items and the Spaal cooling fans.

Only stock items are the Ignition, Light, Wiper Switches, and lastly, Cigarette lighter. 

Power seats and added Console will also need some fresh wiring.

Comment  #1, would like to convert to later model spade style fuses. want to retain factory style firewall harness connections (plugs) for front lamp and engine harness.

Comment  #2, with all the dash changes, only 4-5 items (switches, lighter) retain original style plugs, everything else is aftermarket in one form or another.

Comment # 3, what wiring vendor has a stock style fuse block, with spade style fuses, that can accommodate the wiring need and modifications, without spending a fortune and carving up a new replacement harness for all the changes?

Comment #4, I do have several stock fuse block and harnesses that we can adapt if we give up on the fuse upgrade/update.

P.S. Ron changed his 300 Deluxe Elky out to a Custom dash with the upper trim strip. I am doing the opposite if you note and changing Elky Custom dash to a plain 300 Deluxe. Also, Ron and Charlas 300 Deluxe retained Factory Air with a 134A conversion, my Blue Elky, Vintage air.

The white Elky (300 Deluxe) also has Knee Knocker Tach, power tinted windows and a tissue dispenser added. Both have tilt wheels.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts,

Karl

Thanks Mitch,

Sent a lengthy e-mail to them, will call on Monday and pick their brains.

Karl

The update harness set is spade fuses and circuits for power windows, locks, vintage air, stereos with boosters, 1 wire alternator, electronic ignition, electric fans, direct wire for headlights, etc, etc, way more circuits than I needed, but I started with almost nothing. The wires are NOT terminated and are extra long to run hidden under carpet, etc. The fuse block is the same size as the '68 up and the hole in the firewall will need to be enlarged, comes with a pattern to mark the cut. Fairly good directions, maybe have improved in the 7-8 years since I bought mine for the '66. VERY complete set up with new ignition cylinder, headlight and wiper switches.... more than I can recall.

Ron got the dash assembled:

The Dakota Digital Cluster looks like the full gauge style with the added plus of a Tach built in Also, almost everything can be programed, including lighting color.

Custom Auto Sound noise box has a similar look to original, but different.

Bed rails on, upper cab roof trim re-fitted.

Now figure out transmission cabling, shifter is from 91 Eldorado, front wheel drive.

Transmission is early 700r4.

Both overdrives, need to figure cable routing, lock up or not.

Will drag poor Duane from TSI to hold my hand and consult.

He built the tranny, 20 years ago.

Not even sure what converter is in it

I will challenge his memory and skills!

Pictures of bed and roof rails.

Looking good !

As for the converter, that will depend on the rear axle ratio. If it is 3.08, you aren't going to want a lock up, if 3.31, maybe. Anything deeper, yes, use the lock up.

I can only relate the following to my 200r4 about eliminating the lock up circuit in the trans. No idea if the 700 is similar. You may want to bring this up with Duane.

This is, also, mainly an issue while towing my camper. BUT I found that at 70 on a longer drive without the trailer on the freeway, the fluid would heat slowly, and  still creep up near critical. With the trailer, I kept having the trans fluid overheat quickly and I finally learned that with out the lock up circuit, the amount of fluid going to the cooler is very limited. I had John convert it back and bought a lockup converter from him for an '86-7 GN, which has a higher stall speed than normal use too. It is around 1,800-2,000, which you may never feel as a Sunday driver. Normal driving has it engaging at lower rpm.

I then had Chris P remove the 3.08 gears and install 3.42. This allowed the lock up to be used at speeds over 40 mph in overdrive. 

I control the speed at which the convertor will lock with a B&M converter controller. There are other methods which claim to allow the converter to automatically lock by vacuum or load, but no experience with them. 10 years ago they all seemed to be problematic yet and only worked in overdrive. Hopefully that has changed, for the better.

The controller, also, allows me to use and control the converter to lock up in 2nd and 3rd gears, if shifted into them manually. This essentially, gives me a 7 speed transmission to keep the rpm where I need it for trailering in hills with the converter locked and sufficient fluid flowing to the external cooler to keep the trans temp down. Yes, I have an external cooler almost the same size as the radiator, but the radiators on these '37-38 cars is rather small for today's engines/transmissions...(hint)

So, after reading all the unrelated trailering blather, the bottom line is, talk with Duane about  whether eliminating the lock up circuit on the 700 will restrict fluid to the cooler and whether this will be an issue for your intended driving...

Thanks Mitch,

3:73 rear gear. 

Fair weather chugging around locally.

Highly unlikely any long drives in its' future.

NEVER a trailer on it in my lifetime.

Probably nothing ever in the bed even.

Have the luxury of other choices.

Duane and I live one lot away from each other, lucky for me, probably not so much for him

Karl

Playing with center console. 

Goal, Power seat switches on console, control boxes for Dakota digital dash in lower front of console.

Extending console to make room and close out most of front.

After console is mocked up will figure out shifter cabling.

Using 26 ga. material to fabricate, after cardboard templates cut out.

Then change mind re-engineer and use more metal.

Attaching with two-part adhesive, rivets and a couple of screws.

Also, adding a couple of mount brackets inside.

Getting closer. 

As you may have guessed, as usual, many spares, parted out 2 1991 Eldorados and several trips to U-PULL a few years ago.

Never have enough inventory.

Here we go:

-- Edited by more ambition than brains on Sunday 5th of May 2024 09:47:03 AM

Maybe just buy a Lokar shifter and cable and custom fabricate the entire console, rather than trying to modify an existing one ? You could plan better for the switches to be on top, rather than on the side..

Or build a better console to work with the factory shifter and position indicator. that would allow you to move the shifter fore/aft as needed/wanted too.

Just tossing the idea out to consider. I know a guy who could help building the final product, once you have it planned out.

Thanks for the thoughts

Going to stay the course, until I prove to myself that my original plane from 25 years ago is unworkable.

Have always been concerned the shift cabling could be a problem, too soon to tell.

Multiple floor modifications were made to fit seats and console.

Actually, cut a chunk of floor out of a 1991 Eldorado, refabricated to Elky floor, modified bucket seat brackets, etc.

Also, all seat wiring is re-configured to locate switches in the general area as shown.

We added the Dakota Digital control boxes after the fact.

Factory Cadillac console is fairly easy to open up for future access.

Cadillac original bracketry, plus one added bracket in front of factory shifter.

Power seat switch is my preference, less clutter on top of newly fabricated extension.

Sides and extension will be covered in some kind of plain, lightly padded black vinyl.

Agree your suggestion is VERY valid, and a great plan B.

Thanks again!!!!

Karl