2012-2013 A Body Winter............and into Spring Project
dashboard said
Jun 12, 2013
Steve, I think I remember reading or you telling me that a hundred years ago when I started. This is bad, I’m already forgetting things I learned and researched for this project; note to self, take better notes next time.
Mitch your right that bolt is going to be a one time hurdle.
The exhaust is in from the back to forward of the cross member and ready for down pipes.
Since I didn’t get much done today here’s some pictures of mock up components we made for the project. The computer mockup is indestructible; it can be dropped and banged around without fear of damage while trying to find a place to put the real one. The wooden engine towers help establish the required engine height.
Steve, I think I remember reading or you telling me that a hundred years ago when I started. This is bad, I’m already forgetting things I learned and researched for this project
Well my memory is bad too, If I did, I don't remember knowing about that issue until I looked it up now. Those are really tall mounts, hood clearance still OK?
dashboard said
Jun 12, 2013
SteveS wrote:
Steve, I think I remember reading or you telling me that a hundred years ago when I started. This is bad, I’m already forgetting things I learned and researched for this project
Well my memory is bad too, If I did, I don't remember knowing about that issue until I looked it up now. Those are really tall mounts, hood clearance still OK?
I sure hope so but it's going to be close, I'll keep the hacksaw close.
dashboard said
Jun 13, 2013
Car is off tomorrow to have the exhaust finished. Today was spent getting it ready for transport and making sure everything was installed that could possibly create a conflict with the exhaust system.
I also tried to zero in on were this darn computer is going to go. Just inboard of the glove box looked like it would work just great. After trying the wooden block ten different ways I grabbed the real thing and a brighter flashlight I was about to stuff the computer up in the hole and then I saw it, there it was bigger than life.
A great big 2”x 2” by 1.5” magnet sitting on the 48 year old speaker, the computer would almost be touching the magnet.
Going to plan B, still 997 things still left to do……tomorrow will be the first time I will see the car in the sunlight.
<----------Stan those are tail lights.
Enganeer said
Jun 14, 2013
Kevin,
On my 64, I found a lot of room under the glove box and made a plate to mount the holley ECU. I drilled my hole just above the bend in the firewall from the floor, close to the wheelwell.
-- Edited by Enganeer on Friday 14th of June 2013 11:22:04 PM
dashboard said
Jun 15, 2013
Thursday was the first time I’ve seen the car in sun light and I like it. The exhaust is done, O2 bungs are welded in plus I added two additional bungs for wide band sensors. Speaker is being moved to the rear and the computer will be installed under the dash.
The computer placement has become a project onto itself. Like other parts of this conversion everything is like a big balloon, if you push here it will bulge somewhere else so several decisions are based on some form of compromise.
Most of today was spent cutting, soldering and rerouting original wiring around the area that the computer will soon live. Of course the entire dash had to be removed to facilitate this.
Tomorrow we’ll poke the 2” hole in the firewall for the harness hope it works.
John I looked closely at yours when you posted it. Under the clove box could still be a possibility; however I really want to save as much of the glove box as possible, there is simply nowhere else to stow anything in this car.
Would you still have the dimensions for your controlled it looks somewhat smaller then this computer. Was your car an original air car?
I have chosen the spot where the harness will run through the firewall and there should be ample harness under the dash for computer placement.
Enganeer said
Jun 15, 2013
Kevin,
My car was original AC car. I still can slide the glove box in as it sits above the plate in the third picture.
If you found room, then good to go.
dashboard said
Jun 15, 2013
John, you have actually afforded me a slightly different concept and design idea. The Buick glove box is significantly different than yours, in that it drops down just inside the door and my door only holds two cups, but I may be able to sacrifice the depth and add space to the left inside the dash.
The internal portion of the glove box may become part of phase two however, I’m focusing on putting some miles on the car and starting to leave some things for next winter.
dashboard said
Jun 15, 2013
Holes drilled and painted, off to pick up some sheet metal.
Holes drilled and painted, off to pick up some sheet metal.
Watch out stripper barbie when that hole saw goes through the firewall!
Jon H said
Jun 16, 2013
SShink wrote:
dashboard wrote:
Holes drilled and painted, off to pick up some sheet metal.
Watch out stripper barbie when that hole saw goes through the firewall!
Nice to see the old girl back, she has been noticeable missing for quite some time in the photo shoots.
dashboard said
Jun 16, 2013
She was gone for a while with some Mopar guy. She quickly realized he had no money, no motivation and no future so she junked him, now she’s back keeping an eye on happenings in the shop.
bowtie said
Jun 16, 2013
She has that "Oh Noooooo" look like Mr Bill.
dashboard said
Jun 20, 2013
This design on the fly is not as quick as one might think; in fact it seems to be slowing things down. The computer placement has moved from the right forward fender behind the battery then to the left side below the air box but the wire harness was to short, it has now landed in the newly constructed glove box. The end result will be a much cleaned engine compartment.
I have gained a new respect for automotive design engineers and their ability to fit so much into a small space.
The glove box fab has taken a lot longer than I expected, it needs to be built on the workbench then assembled in place under the dash. So it looks like I’ll be getting some under dash time.
John D stopped by and we, or I should say he welded the tunnel back in, this took two nights. I see the tunnel installation as the over the “hump” (get it, over the hump) moment for the project. Now I just need to apply seam sealer and paint both the inside and underneath and that part of the project is behind us.
Brake lines, all of them, fuel tank and lines, exhaust, and engine install are done, wiring (under dash), radiator, transmission and power steering to go, plus 50 or so things I don’t know about or haven’t discovered yet. I am getting pretty good with the transmission though, it’s been in and out of the car no less than six times in the last week.
Once again JD, thanks.
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 20th of June 2013 11:26:03 PM
It's coming right along, good to see the floor in and that's a good spot for the computer. They did a nice job on that exhaust too, very clean. I'm happy to see Barbie has her eye's covered from the welding arc, but you may want to think about a tiny helmet, and maybe any apron if she's going to be doing much metal working.
dashboard said
Jun 23, 2013
The new glove box is installed, we might pretty it up latter but for now it’s done. The computer is installed and wired to the engine; it encroaches into the glove box area but the compartment now extends farther to the right. The computer is held in place with a homemade strap, might not look pretty but it should withstand 30Gs.
I mounted the relay and fuse control box almost directly under the computer on the underside of the glove box so it is very accessible from below. I then placed a placard to identify circuit assignments just outboard of it.
What little bit of soundproofing was installed behind the work area makes a big difference, looking forward to seeing how much quieter the car is when it’s done.
Looks like old Blu is picking up speed and pulling ahead.
When Stan got his in dash tach Mitch was right, I had to have one. Only problem, no one makes one for a Buick because they never had an in dash tach, until now that is. They used the old knee knocker tach; I was thinking of installing a hood mounted tach but got over ruled by the owner.
Herb at Shift Works was very helpful and helped me research dimensions for several in dash tach. Like so many things on this project days of homework for a few hours work
I had to remove both the clock and tach from their respective mounting cases then modify the clock case to receive the tach. Next I had to ‘discover’ the correct amount of shimming for the tach inside the case to establish the correct depth or distance behind the dash glass. I wanted the tach to be the same depth as the fuel quantity gauge, it's tight but it's in there.
So I’ve moved on to the wiring phase and integrating the old with the new.
Sure looks like it was meant to be there. Gonna be very sweet when it is all done.
dashboard said
Jun 26, 2013
Waiting on parts again so it’s time to do some fun things.
Stopped by JD’s today and was able to gain clearance to the JD Skunk Works, his secret little workshop hidden away underground where he does his magic. I was in need of a place to install the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the dashboard. So once again JD did his magic. It is hardly even noticeable (see pix of tach on bench) but when it is eliminated there’s no doubt it’s on. Thanks again John.
The freshly rebuilt grill now sports an LS1 emblem. Got the paint booth back out and repainted the instrument panel and then installed some soundproofing.
And there’s always wiring to play with; hope the parts get here by Friday.
-- Edited by dashboard on Wednesday 26th of June 2013 11:47:05 PM
The Ninja Doctor kind of scares me. Looks like the "slice and dice" specialist.
So Barbie gets to sit up front ???
dashboard said
Jun 28, 2013
Actually she’s a pretty smart gal, she’s in the El Camino, that way she at least gets a ride once and a while. She does get around the shop frequently however checking out the progress on the yellow one. We need to get by Goodwill and pickup some cloths for her, she did not have much when she arrived.
Mitch, the seat belt anchors came from the place you link to in a past post.
dashboard said
Jun 28, 2013
Shush, you might wake up the censor.
(he never sleeps......)
Lost in the 60s said
Jun 29, 2013
dashboard wrote:
Actually she’s a pretty smart gal, she’s in the El Camino, that way she at least gets a ride once and a while. She does get around the shop frequently however checking out the progress on the yellow one. We need to get by Goodwill and pickup some cloths for her, she did not have much when she arrived.
Mitch, the seat belt anchors came from the place you link to in a past post.
I used those anchors and their seat belts in the '38 and YES, I do occasionally wear it...
Um...Barbie doesn't really need clothes. I tell my Barbie that often too.....
Tim H said
Jun 29, 2013
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Um...Barbie doesn't really need clothes. I tell my Barbie that often too.....
and how does that work out for you.... No don't answer that.
dashboard said
Jun 29, 2013
Still waiting on parts, we’re doing what we can that won’t latter conflict with what still needs to be done.
Speaker wires, fuel pump power lead and all other wiring is routed to the rear. Soundproofing, padding, carpet, and rear seat with belts are installed. The instrument cluster is reassembled and ready for installation.
I installed the dual function brake switch that also acts as the torque converter clutch switch. What should have been a quick 15 minute task turned into three hours. The electrical portion went very smoothly, getting the adjustment the way I wanted it took forever, it was……not so much fun.
The transmission tail cone should have shipped today. I’m very close to a decision on a radiator, fan, shroud combination, should order it Monday.
Looks like the 4 of July holiday may back things up a little.
Um...Barbie doesn't really need clothes. I tell my Barbie that often too.....
and how does that work out for you.... No don't answer that.
SShink said
Jun 29, 2013
Lookin' good Kevin!
I think we are both at about the same stage, or will be by Noon tomorrow after I finish up the engine bay stuff. Hopefully we will both be able to debut our projects at Car Craft!
dashboard said
Jun 29, 2013
Car Craft is a long shot, I still have several 'how are we going to do that' things ahead and probably a few more hiding in the weeds.
Today the goal is to marry some 'steam engine' instrumentation to the new engine. If that goes well I may tackle the gas peddle modification that I've been avoiding from the start of the project.
SteveS said
Jun 29, 2013
dashboard wrote:
If that goes well I may tackle the gas peddle modification that I've been avoiding from the start of the project.
You've got seat belts in the backseat now. Just sit back there and use the pedal you have
dashboard said
Jun 29, 2013
Just need someone to steer, we could do it just like Cale and AJ, one works the gas and the other steers.
Chris R said
Jun 30, 2013
Use a couple of blocks of wood tied to the bottom of your feet.
dashboard said
Jul 3, 2013
Anyone have experience with Header Insulation Tape? I’ve installed my stand alone oil pressure and water temp sending units for the ‘steam engine’ side of things. The oil press sw is closer to the down pipe than I like, I’m looking for a way to protect it from heat.
How well will the tape protect things around it from heat? Are we talking Space Shuttle tiles or just a blanket? Can you touch the stuff with your hand when the engine is running? Or asked another way is the stuff worth the cost?
67ss said
Jul 3, 2013
Kevin I have used this stuff from napa, seems very similar to what GM used on the wire to the temp and oil senders back in the day. It states it is rated to 250 degrees. They have it in various diameters this is just one I grabed for reference.
Is there room and a fastening point to fab a tin shield ? They work better to deflect heat on the order of a starter heat shield. Header wrap is more designed to keep the heat in the pipe but not necessarily going to create a "cool" area around it.
SteveS said
Jul 3, 2013
I've got a roll of DEI Cool tape that is self adhesive. I can bring some next time I'm up your way. But it's silver and maybe you were looking for something that's a little more hidden?
Mitch, that goes to my question. Does the tape reduce the amount of heat radiating out from the pipe?
Steve I have some of the DEI tape but was hoping to warp about 8" of the downpipe.
SteveS said
Jul 3, 2013
Ah, I thought you were looking to wrap the wires, not the pipe
Lost in the 60s said
Jul 3, 2013
dashboard wrote:
Mitch, that goes to my question. Does the tape reduce the amount of heat radiating out from the pipe?
Steve I have some of the DEI tape but was hoping to warp about 8" of the downpipe.
Once the wrap is heat soaked, I don't think it will help much in a reduction of temp around it. The shield deflects the heat and will self cool.
dashboard said
Jul 3, 2013
Here is what I’m trying to not over heat. Ideally I would have liked to mount the oil pressure sending unit pointing up but it gets’ even closer to the down pipe.
I think you could fab up a thin sheet-metal deflector and mount to the exhaust stud(s). I made a deflector for my wiring harness since it ran by one of my headers.
dashboard said
Jul 3, 2013
Ya baby we have a gas pedal. It may not look like much but it took a lot of time and work. Angles, dangles bends and twists to maintain the correct full pedal travel and feel for the ‘drive by wire’ pedal. One more milestone past, and a nice one to have in the rear view mirror.
Dash is slowly going back in, still chasing some electrical gremlins but there falling one at a time. Right now my TEMP light (steam Gauge) will not test but it will illuminate when tested to ground at the probe. A ground should be provided thru the cranking position of the ignition switch for testing but it’s not working.
Unable to load pictures tonight.
Unable to load pictures this morning.
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:30:12 AM
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 4th of July 2013 07:41:50 AM
Lost in the 60s said
Jul 3, 2013
I don't see that you have anything to worry about. It appears to be a decent distance away from the pipe and with air flow down the road, won't be a problem. Even with parade speed, the heat will rise away from the sender.
dashboard said
Jul 4, 2013
You’re probably correct Mitch I can tend to over think some of these things.
Tim H said
Jul 4, 2013
dashboard wrote:
Anyone have experience with Header Insulation Tape? I’ve installed my stand alone oil pressure and water temp sending units for the ‘steam engine’ side of things. The oil press sw is closer to the down pipe than I like, I’m looking for a way to protect it from heat.
How well will the tape protect things around it from heat? Are we talking Space Shuttle tiles or just a blanket? Can you touch the stuff with your hand when the engine is running? Or asked another way is the stuff worth the cost?
I've used header wrap on motorcycles and it works well
Steve, I think I remember reading or you telling me that a hundred years ago when I started. This is bad, I’m already forgetting things I learned and researched for this project; note to self, take better notes next time.
Mitch your right that bolt is going to be a one time hurdle.
The exhaust is in from the back to forward of the cross member and ready for down pipes.
Since I didn’t get much done today here’s some pictures of mock up components we made for the project. The computer mockup is indestructible; it can be dropped and banged around without fear of damage while trying to find a place to put the real one. The wooden engine towers help establish the required engine height.
Well my memory is bad too, If I did, I don't remember knowing about that issue until I looked it up now
. Those are really tall mounts, hood clearance still OK?
I sure hope so but it's going to be close, I'll keep the hacksaw close.
Car is off tomorrow to have the exhaust finished. Today was spent getting it ready for transport and making sure everything was installed that could possibly create a conflict with the exhaust system.
I also tried to zero in on were this darn computer is going to go. Just inboard of the glove box looked like it would work just great. After trying the wooden block ten different ways I grabbed the real thing and a brighter flashlight I was about to stuff the computer up in the hole and then I saw it, there it was bigger than life.
A great big 2”x 2” by 1.5” magnet sitting on the 48 year old speaker, the computer would almost be touching the magnet.
Going to plan B, still 997 things still left to do……tomorrow will be the first time I will see the car in the sunlight.
<----------Stan those are tail lights.
Kevin,
On my 64, I found a lot of room under the glove box and made a plate to mount the holley ECU. I drilled my hole just above the bend in the firewall from the floor, close to the wheelwell.
-- Edited by Enganeer on Friday 14th of June 2013 11:22:04 PM
Thursday was the first time I’ve seen the car in sun light and I like it. The exhaust is done, O2 bungs are welded in plus I added two additional bungs for wide band sensors. Speaker is being moved to the rear and the computer will be installed under the dash.
The computer placement has become a project onto itself. Like other parts of this conversion everything is like a big balloon, if you push here it will bulge somewhere else so several decisions are based on some form of compromise.
Most of today was spent cutting, soldering and rerouting original wiring around the area that the computer will soon live. Of course the entire dash had to be removed to facilitate this.
Tomorrow we’ll poke the 2” hole in the firewall for the harness hope it works.
Would you still have the dimensions for your controlled it looks somewhat smaller then this computer.
Was your car an original air car?
I have chosen the spot where the harness will run through the firewall and there should be ample harness under the dash for computer placement.
My car was original AC car. I still can slide the glove box in as it sits above the plate in the third picture.
If you found room, then good to go.
The internal portion of the glove box may become part of phase two however, I’m focusing on putting some miles on the car and starting to leave some things for next winter.
Holes drilled and painted, off to pick up some sheet metal.
Watch out stripper barbie when that hole saw goes through the firewall!
Nice to see the old girl back, she has been noticeable missing for quite some time in the photo shoots.
This design on the fly is not as quick as one might think; in fact it seems to be slowing things down. The computer placement has moved from the right forward fender behind the battery then to the left side below the air box but the wire harness was to short, it has now landed in the newly constructed glove box. The end result will be a much cleaned engine compartment.
I have gained a new respect for automotive design engineers and their ability to fit so much into a small space.
The glove box fab has taken a lot longer than I expected, it needs to be built on the workbench then assembled in place under the dash. So it looks like I’ll be getting some under dash time.
John D stopped by and we, or I should say he welded the tunnel back in, this took two nights. I see the tunnel installation as the over the “hump” (get it, over the hump) moment for the project. Now I just need to apply seam sealer and paint both the inside and underneath and that part of the project is behind us.
Brake lines, all of them, fuel tank and lines, exhaust, and engine install are done, wiring (under dash), radiator, transmission and power steering to go, plus 50 or so things I don’t know about or haven’t discovered yet. I am getting pretty good with the transmission though, it’s been in and out of the car no less than six times in the last week.
Once again JD, thanks.
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 20th of June 2013 11:26:03 PM
It's coming right along, good to see the floor in and that's a good spot for the computer. They did a nice job on that exhaust too, very clean. I'm happy to see Barbie has her eye's covered from the welding arc, but you may want to think about a tiny helmet, and maybe any apron if she's going to be doing much metal working.
The new glove box is installed, we might pretty it up latter but for now it’s done. The computer is installed and wired to the engine; it encroaches into the glove box area but the compartment now extends farther to the right. The computer is held in place with a homemade strap, might not look pretty but it should withstand 30Gs.
I mounted the relay and fuse control box almost directly under the computer on the underside of the glove box so it is very accessible from below. I then placed a placard to identify circuit assignments just outboard of it.
What little bit of soundproofing was installed behind the work area makes a big difference, looking forward to seeing how much quieter the car is when it’s done.
Looks like old Blu is picking up speed and pulling ahead.
When Stan got his in dash tach Mitch was right, I had to have one. Only problem, no one makes one for a Buick because they never had an in dash tach, until now that is. They used the old knee knocker tach; I was thinking of installing a hood mounted tach but got over ruled by the owner.
Herb at Shift Works was very helpful and helped me research dimensions for several in dash tach. Like so many things on this project days of homework for a few hours work
I had to remove both the clock and tach from their respective mounting cases then modify the clock case to receive the tach. Next I had to ‘discover’ the correct amount of shimming for the tach inside the case to establish the correct depth or distance behind the dash glass. I wanted the tach to be the same depth as the fuel quantity gauge, it's tight but it's in there.
So I’ve moved on to the wiring phase and integrating the old with the new.
Sure looks like it was meant to be there. Gonna be very sweet when it is all done.
Waiting on parts again so it’s time to do some fun things.
Stopped by JD’s today and was able to gain clearance to the JD Skunk Works, his secret little workshop hidden away underground where he does his magic. I was in need of a place to install the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) in the dashboard. So once again JD did his magic. It is hardly even noticeable (see pix of tach on bench) but when it is eliminated there’s no doubt it’s on. Thanks again John.
The freshly rebuilt grill now sports an LS1 emblem. Got the paint booth back out and repainted the instrument panel and then installed some soundproofing.
And there’s always wiring to play with; hope the parts get here by Friday.
-- Edited by dashboard on Wednesday 26th of June 2013 11:47:05 PM
The tach looks fabulous! As suspected with the lens in place the lamp really disperses and will definitely get your attention.
)
(Clearance to the Skunk Works isn't easily obtained - hear no, see no, speak no is in effect - lead-lined walls, cameras, security cabinets and all
I had to take the oath.
‘What you see here, what you hear here, what you do here, stays here when you leave here’.
"So Barbie gets to sit up front ???"
Now Mitch it is a convertible so barbie should be on the top of the back seat doing the wave.
Those two are just the body guards.
-- Edited by 67ss on Friday 28th of June 2013 11:58:49 AM
At last we have rear seat belts.
The Ninja Doctor kind of scares me. Looks like the "slice and dice" specialist.
So Barbie gets to sit up front ???
Mitch, the seat belt anchors came from the place you link to in a past post.
Shush, you might wake up the censor.
(he never sleeps......)
I used those anchors and their seat belts in the '38 and YES, I do occasionally wear it...
Um...Barbie doesn't really need clothes. I tell my Barbie that often too.....
and how does that work out for you.... No don't answer that.
Still waiting on parts, we’re doing what we can that won’t latter conflict with what still needs to be done.
Speaker wires, fuel pump power lead and all other wiring is routed to the rear. Soundproofing, padding, carpet, and rear seat with belts are installed. The instrument cluster is reassembled and ready for installation.
I installed the dual function brake switch that also acts as the torque converter clutch switch. What should have been a quick 15 minute task turned into three hours. The electrical portion went very smoothly, getting the adjustment the way I wanted it took forever, it was……not so much fun.
The transmission tail cone should have shipped today. I’m very close to a decision on a radiator, fan, shroud combination, should order it Monday.
Looks like the 4 of July holiday may back things up a little.
Lookin' good Kevin!
I think we are both at about the same stage, or will be by Noon tomorrow after I finish up the engine bay stuff. Hopefully we will both be able to debut our projects at Car Craft!
Today the goal is to marry some 'steam engine' instrumentation to the new engine. If that goes well I may tackle the gas peddle modification that I've been avoiding from the start of the project.
You've got seat belts in the backseat now. Just sit back there and use the pedal you have
Use a couple of blocks of wood tied to the bottom of your feet.
How well will the tape protect things around it from heat? Are we talking Space Shuttle tiles or just a blanket? Can you touch the stuff with your hand when the engine is running?
Or asked another way is the stuff worth the cost?
Kevin I have used this stuff from napa, seems very similar to what GM used on the wire to the temp and oil senders back in the day. It states it is rated to 250 degrees. They have it in various diameters this is just one I grabed for reference.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=NW_737103_0063685816
Is there room and a fastening point to fab a tin shield ? They work better to deflect heat on the order of a starter heat shield. Header wrap is more designed to keep the heat in the pipe but not necessarily going to create a "cool" area around it.
I've got a roll of DEI Cool tape that is self adhesive. I can bring some next time I'm up your way. But it's silver and maybe you were looking for something that's a little more hidden?
http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/insulating-materials/cool-tape
Steve I have some of the DEI tape but was hoping to warp about 8" of the downpipe.
Ah, I thought you were looking to wrap the wires, not the pipe
Once the wrap is heat soaked, I don't think it will help much in a reduction of temp around it. The shield deflects the heat and will self cool.
Here is what I’m trying to not over heat. Ideally I would have liked to mount the oil pressure sending unit pointing up but it gets’ even closer to the down pipe.
I think you could fab up a thin sheet-metal deflector and mount to the exhaust stud(s). I made a deflector for my wiring harness since it ran by one of my headers.
Ya baby we have a gas pedal. It may not look like much but it took a lot of time and work. Angles, dangles bends and twists to maintain the correct full pedal travel and feel for the ‘drive by wire’ pedal. One more milestone past, and a nice one to have in the rear view mirror.
Dash is slowly going back in, still chasing some electrical gremlins but there falling one at a time. Right now my TEMP light (steam Gauge) will not test but it will illuminate when tested to ground at the probe. A ground should be provided thru the cranking position of the ignition switch for testing but it’s not working.
Unable to load pictures tonight.
Unable to load pictures this morning.
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 4th of July 2013 06:30:12 AM
-- Edited by dashboard on Thursday 4th of July 2013 07:41:50 AM
I don't see that you have anything to worry about. It appears to be a decent distance away from the pipe and with air flow down the road, won't be a problem. Even with parade speed, the heat will rise away from the sender.
I've used header wrap on motorcycles and it works well