If I could guess lottery numbers, I would've won the 640 million Mega Millions game a couple weeks ago and we'd all have all the parts we need to complete our cars. I could probably even come close to affording your '69 when it's done...
Here are your Powerball Numbers
67 68 69 71 72 and the Powerball is 70
Sure I'd take 640 million for it.... maybe a NCC discount could apply
OscarZ said
Apr 21, 2012
Saw Kevin's project in person yesterday. I think the paint turned out really good and I like the color. Can't wait to see it out in the sun. The motor was looking good too!
dashboard said
Apr 21, 2012
I have some new parts on the engine so I decided to do a complete mockup on the stand prior to installation to check for conflicts, I’m glad I did. It now has a new/different carburetor and fuel line setup, distributor with external coil, AC compressor and its brackets.
The AC belt adjustment bracket (see pix) conflicts with the power steering adjustment bracket. I think I have the fix worked out but want/need to maintain the belt alignment.
New carb is a Quick Fuel 750 double pumper with mechanical secondary’s (I know, I said I’d never have another Holley product) it has only one large vacuum port on the back side. My Holley and Edelbrock had one forward and aft for brakes and PCV. With that set up the only thing that taped the intake manifold for vacuum was the heating AC system. Any one use a T and tap both brakes and PCV of the same port?
I’d like to avoid the manifold tap so as not to compromise the fuel air mixture to number eight cylinder; or am I just over thinking this?
Use the manifold port for your brakes. It won't compromise anything - #8 shares a runner/plenum/chamber with another cylinder - and you need direct massive vacuum for the booster to function properly. Use the carb baseplate vacuum for the pcv.
Do you still need vacuum for the heat/ac system controls? I thought they were mechanical. (?)
dashboard said
Apr 21, 2012
Yes I need vacuum for heat, defrost and AC all the doors and valves are vacuum operated. It’s an on demand system and uses vacuum only to reposition doors and valves so its demand is minimal. As long as there are no leaks that is.
dashboard said
Apr 21, 2012
Anyone have one of these with the tap ports 180* apart lying around?
Anyone have one of these with the tap ports 180* apart lying around?
I have one that is similar except the barbs are 90 degrees apart. It supplies the interior vent system and the cowl induction hood flapper door with another tee off that line for the cruise control pod.
Make sure you have enough clearance to install it, or you may need to trim one of the barbs like I did on mine since it hit the intake manifold when threading it in.
dashboard said
Apr 21, 2012
Bryan, are these still available from GM?
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 21, 2012
The vacuum line to the booster is steel and rubber. The manifold fitting takes the flared end of the steel line and various fittings will accommodate any combination of vacuum lines you need. Here is a link to Classic Muscle. Scroll down to page 5 and you will see all the parts in exploded view. They are available. I've bought a LOT of parts from them and it's all quality stuff.
The vacuum line to the booster is steel and rubber. The manifold fitting takes the flared end of the steel line and various fittings will accommodate any combination of vacuum lines you need. Here is a link to Classic Muscle. Scroll down to page 5 and you will see all the parts in exploded view. They are available. I've bought a LOT of parts from them and it's all quality stuff.
Passed another milestone Thursday, Gearlube stopped by and we installed the engine and transmission; thanks Tom. Now I continue with trying to making some new parts fit. Spent the last two days reworking and rerouting wiring in the engine compartment and integrating the new A/C compressor system.
Everything that has been reinstalled has fresh paint so I had to refresh several grounding points, thanks Stan.
As always much more work than expected; hope to start it by next weekend but then I thought it would be running before today.
Too bad all that new paint is hidden under all those hoses.
Tim H said
May 1, 2012
It looks real nice in the Elky. I got to see it this past weekend and I'm real impressed with the details.
dashboard said
May 5, 2012
I’m not sure I can honestly say it’s out of CAC but the Elky has been started several times and has moved forward and backward under its own power.
It is however in need of several adjustments but it runs, I would have taken it out for a test drive if not for the pouring rain.
Thanks to Stan his son Eric and Eric’s buddy Wyatt the hood is installed.
SShink said
May 5, 2012
No problem Kevin. The boys learned something about engines and how to work together. Both good lessons!
Kevin's 'new' engine sure sounds and idles nice at 750 rpm. And it looks nice with that domed hood back on with the engine underneath instead of on a stand!
I'm sure you'll have some debugging runs, but it is moving on ships power and you beat the CAC counter!
Lost in the 60s said
May 5, 2012
dashboard wrote:
I’m not sure I can honestly say it’s out of CAC but the Elky has been started several times and has moved forward and backward under its own power.
It is however in need of several adjustments but it runs, I would have taken it out for a test drive if not for the pouring rain.
Thanks to Stan his son Eric and Eric’s buddy Wyatt the hood is installed.
Bring it out to the Fairgrounds tomorrow. It won't be cold enough to snow....
Good to hear it's all together, but I assume your camera broke, since there are no pics to verify this claim...
Chris R said
May 6, 2012
Kevin, where did you have those exhaust manifolds coated? Or did you paint them using high temp cast iron paint? Engine compartment is looking really nice.
dashboard said
May 6, 2012
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Bring it out to the Fairgrounds tomorrow. It won't be cold enough to snow....
Good to hear it's all together, but I assume your camera broke, since there are no pics to verify this claim...
Well darn Mitch; I can’t just snatch a picture off my computer of the Elky sitting outside; there all the wrong color.
No fair grounds for me, I’m going to start on the adjustments and work on the AC install.
dashboard said
May 6, 2012
Chris R wrote:
Kevin, where did you have those exhaust manifolds coated? Or did you paint them using high temp cast iron paint? Engine compartment is looking really nice.
Chris, I used a product called VHT Header Paint comes in an aerosol can, sold at O Reilly’s. I put on several coats after blasting the manifold. In the past I’ve used the Eastwood header paint but it just doesn’t seem hold up very well or last more than 18 months, if it gets any water on it rusts right away.
So we’ll see how this holds up over the next year.
Lost in the 60s said
May 6, 2012
I hope you have better luck with the VHT than I did. I painted my headers after sandblasting and cleaning with lacquer thinner and it all peeled off in a year....
A pic of the assembled car in the "shop" would suffice. A color change does keep you from cheating...
dashboard said
May 6, 2012
Like I said, will wait and see how they look in a year. Good thing is they can be removed in 30 minutes; if this doesn’t hold up I’ll try high temp power coating next.
I have heard and read that lacquer thinner can be very detrimental when used as a surface cleaner. Here are some interesting thoughts on the subject from another site the posts tend to go sour toward the end but you can get the idea.
Weather permitting I’ll get it outside today for a test drive and get ya some pixs.
-- Edited by dashboard on Sunday 6th of May 2012 08:14:27 AM
jim larson said
May 7, 2012
16 bolts and the lead pipes, takes me move that 30 min and then I have to re-install. I also used the Eastwood paint a few years ago, then my manifolds showed a little rust after a couple of years. Eastwood also make a product that you wipe on with your fingers. I used it last spring and it still looks good this spring.
John D said
May 8, 2012
I have heard and read that lacquer thinner can be very detrimental when used as a surface cleaner.
Yup... use acetone... leaves nothing behind, and leaves your hand so dried out they'll crack.
Scott Parkhurst said
May 11, 2012
You're really busting ass on this. Can't wait to see it!
Lost in the 60s said
May 11, 2012
I was at "The Cleanest Garage in Town" today and got a ride in the Green Hornet. Runs very nice and goes down the road like a new car. The attention to detail and making sure things were right really paid off...
Here are your Powerball Numbers
67 68 69 71 72 and the Powerball is 70
Sure I'd take 640 million for it.... maybe a NCC discount could apply
Saw Kevin's project in person yesterday. I think the paint turned out really good and I like the color. Can't wait to see it out in the sun. The motor was looking good too!
I have some new parts on the engine so I decided to do a complete mockup on the stand prior to installation to check for conflicts, I’m glad I did. It now has a new/different carburetor and fuel line setup, distributor with external coil, AC compressor and its brackets.
The AC belt adjustment bracket (see pix) conflicts with the power steering adjustment bracket. I think I have the fix worked out but want/need to maintain the belt alignment.
New carb is a Quick Fuel 750 double pumper with mechanical secondary’s (I know, I said I’d never have another Holley product) it has only one large vacuum port on the back side. My Holley and Edelbrock had one forward and aft for brakes and PCV. With that set up the only thing that taped the intake manifold for vacuum was the heating AC system. Any one use a T and tap both brakes and PCV of the same port?
I’d like to avoid the manifold tap so as not to compromise the fuel air mixture to number eight cylinder; or am I just over thinking this?
Do you still need vacuum for the heat/ac system controls? I thought they were mechanical. (?)
Anyone have one of these with the tap ports 180* apart lying around?
I have one that is similar except the barbs are 90 degrees apart. It supplies the interior vent system and the cowl induction hood flapper door with another tee off that line for the cruise control pod.
Make sure you have enough clearance to install it, or you may need to trim one of the barbs like I did on mine since it hit the intake manifold when threading it in.
The vacuum line to the booster is steel and rubber. The manifold fitting takes the flared end of the steel line and various fittings will accommodate any combination of vacuum lines you need. Here is a link to Classic Muscle. Scroll down to page 5 and you will see all the parts in exploded view. They are available. I've bought a LOT of parts from them and it's all quality stuff.
http://1964-77chevelleparts.com/catalogPDFs/A2%2005%20brakes.pdf
Always been happy with Classic Muscle.
Passed another milestone Thursday, Gearlube stopped by and we installed the engine and transmission; thanks Tom. Now I continue with trying to making some new parts fit. Spent the last two days reworking and rerouting wiring in the engine compartment and integrating the new A/C compressor system.
Everything that has been reinstalled has fresh paint so I had to refresh several grounding points, thanks Stan.
As always much more work than expected; hope to start it by next weekend but then I thought it would be running before today.
I can almost hear it running now !!!
Too bad all that new paint is hidden under all those hoses.
I’m not sure I can honestly say it’s out of CAC but the Elky has been started several times and has moved forward and backward under its own power.
It is however in need of several adjustments but it runs, I would have taken it out for a test drive if not for the pouring rain.
Thanks to Stan his son Eric and Eric’s buddy Wyatt the hood is installed.
No problem Kevin. The boys learned something about engines and how to work together. Both good lessons!
Kevin's 'new' engine sure sounds and idles nice at 750 rpm. And it looks nice with that domed hood back on with the engine underneath instead of on a stand!
I'm sure you'll have some debugging runs, but it is moving on ships power and you beat the CAC counter!
Kevin, where did you have those exhaust manifolds coated? Or did you paint them using high temp cast iron paint? Engine compartment is looking really nice.
Well darn Mitch; I can’t just snatch a picture off my computer of the Elky sitting outside; there all the wrong color.
No fair grounds for me, I’m going to start on the adjustments and work on the AC install.
Chris, I used a product called VHT Header Paint comes in an aerosol can, sold at O Reilly’s. I put on several coats after blasting the manifold. In the past I’ve used the Eastwood header paint but it just doesn’t seem hold up very well or last more than 18 months, if it gets any water on it rusts right away.
So we’ll see how this holds up over the next year.
I hope you have better luck with the VHT than I did. I painted my headers after sandblasting and cleaning with lacquer thinner and it all peeled off in a year....
A pic of the assembled car in the "shop" would suffice. A color change does keep you from cheating...
Like I said, will wait and see how they look in a year. Good thing is they can be removed in 30 minutes; if this doesn’t hold up I’ll try high temp power coating next.
I have heard and read that lacquer thinner can be very detrimental when used as a surface cleaner. Here are some interesting thoughts on the subject from another site the posts tend to go sour toward the end but you can get the idea.
Weather permitting I’ll get it outside today for a test drive and get ya some pixs.
-- Edited by dashboard on Sunday 6th of May 2012 08:14:27 AM
16 bolts and the lead pipes, takes me move that 30 min and then I have to re-install. I also used the Eastwood paint a few years ago, then my manifolds showed a little rust after a couple of years. Eastwood also make a product that you wipe on with your fingers. I used it last spring and it still looks good this spring.
Yup... use acetone... leaves nothing behind, and leaves your hand so dried out they'll crack.
I was at "The Cleanest Garage in Town" today and got a ride in the Green Hornet. Runs very nice and goes down the road like a new car. The attention to detail and making sure things were right really paid off...