Tim, another heat 'trick' the dyno guy told me about was to not use a thermostat and use a restrictor instead which evens out the temperature in the engine and radiator instead of the swings that happen as the thermostat opens and closes.
He said the only time I will notice it is in cooler temps that the heater air may not be quite as hot. Otherwise, it's a good idea for normal spring/summer driving.
I only had a restrictor (no stat) on the big block that was in my car before the current engine. Always ran great and temps never got too high.
Andy, what size opening restrictor did you use?
seagrams72 said
Mar 22, 2011
Hmm, this was about 6 or 7 years ago, but if you took a stock stat and removed the centrer section so only the outer disc remained it was a little more restricted (smaller id) than that. The only reason why I did that was because we had the restrictors on the shelf and no stats. I don't know if it is a big block thing or due to this, but IIRC it did take a while for it to get to operating temp.
I am definetley a firm beilever in an OE type cooling system though. Even though I am not running a big block anymore I picked up a brand new radiator for my car today that is for a 72' with a big block for about $90. I do go a little crazy sometimes though, I will buy the straight coolant from an autoparts store, but mix it with DI water from work and not tap water.
SShink said
Mar 23, 2011
seagrams72 wrote:
Hmm, this was about 6 or 7 years ago, but if you took a stock stat and removed the centrer section so only the outer disc remained it was a little more restricted (smaller id) than that. The only reason why I did that was because we had the restrictors on the shelf and no stats. I don't know if it is a big block thing or due to this, but IIRC it did take a while for it to get to operating temp.
I am definetley a firm beilever in an OE type cooling system though. Even though I am not running a big block anymore I picked up a brand new radiator for my car today that is for a 72' with a big block for about $90. I do go a little crazy sometimes though, I will buy the straight coolant from an autoparts store, but mix it with DI water from work and not tap water.
Andy, buried somewhere in this post is a pic of the top of the stat that I took out where it was blown open. So basically, the stat acted like an open restrictor plate anyway. As you said, I did notice that it took longer to come up to temp, but once it got there it was steady as a rock.
Since my engine and entire cooling system is starting out dry for the re-install, I will probably mix DI water with the anti-freeze to keep tap water contaminants out of the system too.
seagrams72 said
Mar 23, 2011
SShink wrote:
Since my engine and entire cooling system is starting out dry for the re-install, I will probably mix DI water with the anti-freeze to keep tap water contaminants out of the system too.
Can't go wrong with the DI. We have a DI water system at work so I fill up a pail there.
SShink said
Apr 2, 2011
Some MAJOR progress today with help from some friends and NCC members! Shout out to John D., Kevin, Rick, Tom, and Mike for the help today!!!
Here's some catch up first though. Pic of the engine bay primed and ready for paint:
Engine/Trans ready to go in:
How many guys does it take to get a BBC in (with some persuasion from my foot!):
And it's IN!
And time to kick back and appreciate the result!
Now it's back to putting all the accessories back on, connecting the exhaust, carb, etc.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 2, 2011
Looks good. It feels good to, to finally put it back in place...
Bungy L-76 said
Apr 3, 2011
Even though I got there too late to help out (that darn job of mine is always getting in the way of my fun) I apperitiate the food and had a good time hanging out and BS'n in the warm sun.
Stan, Now you have to change your signature and get rid of the TH400
SShink said
Apr 3, 2011
Bungy L-76 wrote:
Even though I got there too late to help out (that darn job of mine is always getting in the way of my fun) I apperitiate the food and had a good time hanging out and BS'n in the warm sun.
Stan, Now you have to change your signature and get rid of the TH400
Steve, it was good to see you and Pushrod (and friends) as well.
Sig has been updated. Thanks for the reminder. I started this project in Nov. and forgot I had changed the sig then!
Now it's back to the cave to get some work done. Hope to drive it to the meeting in 2 weeks!
SShink said
Apr 3, 2011
I'm already liking the exhaust manifolds and I haven't even started it yet!
I want to run the 'Oil' idiot light AND a gauge, so I needed to figure out a T somehow but forgot before the engine got put in. I went to remove the brass fitting and pressure switch, and it looked there wasn't enough room to spin it around, but I gave it a try and there was plenty of room!
There's NO WAY there would have been room to do this with headers...
Here's a couple of pics of the final setup to run both the gauge and light:
John D said
Apr 3, 2011
That was a good time. I think the only paint that got scuffed was a spot on the pan and the steering shaft. Pretty easy considering 800 lbs. of dead weight sliding in on an angle without "dinging" anything.
(Whaddya think of the moniker "Transpad"? ... we've all done something similar...)
Chris R said
Apr 3, 2011
Stan. Is it me or does the nylon pressure line touch the engine in that last pic? That stuff leaks just be looking at it wrong. I would try to rotate the fitting to move that tubing a little.
OscarZ said
Apr 4, 2011
I agree with Chris about that stuff being leak prone. I would run the copper instead of the nylon especially if it is a mechanical gauge. It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...
dashboard said
Apr 4, 2011
Stan. Is it me or does the nylon pressure line touch the engine in that last pic? That stuff leaks just be looking at it wrong. I would try to rotate the fitting to move that tubing a little.
I agree with Chris about that stuff being leak prone. I would run the copper instead of the nylon especially if it is a mechanical gauge. It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...
I agree with Mike who agrees with Chris, ditch the nylon and use copper. Nylon is ok on a small block were the pickup is on the top of the block. On the BB it's right next to the hot exhaust manifold, copper will stay were you put it nylon will move around. If the nylon touches the exhaust manifold lots of bad thinks can happen, ranging from leaks to fires.
But, use what ever you want, if you stay with that nylon crap you need to be last in line when we cruise. So when it leaks and sprays oil out at 70psi it won't get on our cars. Plus if it starts on fire we won't need to drive around you.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
Calm down guys... the line hasn't even been routed yet. It was just shoved up to get it out of the way as I took the pic after I installed the fittings.. The pic was just to show how clever I thought I was figuring out how to run the fittings...
I've used nylon line for over 25 years and not had a problem. As long as it is routed well away from pinch points, abrasion areas, and heat, it's fine.
Kevin, and to make you even more nervous, my green Chevelle that you followed last summer had nylon oil line AND headers to melt it with!
Derek69SS said
Apr 4, 2011
Nylon is nice that it doesn't transfer noise into the car, but the NHRA doesn't allow it if you want to drag race. :)
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
Derek69SS wrote:
Nylon is nice that it doesn't transfer noise into the car, but the NHRA doesn't allow it if you want to drag race. :)
Ok, ok. So where does one purchase this small copper line that you speak of? O'Reilly's?
It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...
I did that once. My first time putting in gauges and pinched the hose with the little brass fitting on the back of the guage. A '79 malibu dash will hold amost a quart of oil before it runs on your shoes.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
Looks like I'll be making a stop at O'Reilly's to order this:
I was trying to remember who in the club said they had good luck with the nylon line. If it works for you. By all means. If you keep it secure enough, I could see it lasting a long time actually.
If you do decide to get copper line. Make sure to get the barrel shaped ferrules as well. I got the auto meter kit when I did mine and it came with the fittings for it. Im pretty sure any parts store has this kit in thier performance section. Or even CA Performance would also have it. You may be able to use the old fittings from the nylon tube but sometimes the ferrule compression fitting is smooshed too much to be re-used again.
frank said
Apr 4, 2011
just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
frank wrote:
just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?
I think it's 1/8" OD. I ordered the tubing from O'Reilly's and will pick it up tonight.
bowtie said
Apr 4, 2011
Hate to see you torch this one and have to find another 72 in the world you haven't already owned....
jim larson said
Apr 4, 2011
I am pretty sure the line I installed was a copper plated steel line. Got it from Paragon a corvette vender. Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
bowtie wrote:
Hate to see you torch this one and have to find another 72 in the world you haven't already owned....
So many Chevelles... so little time.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2011
jim larson wrote:
Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.
Thanks Jim.
Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year. I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again. Gotta have something to do next winter!
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 4, 2011
SShink wrote:
jim larson wrote:
Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.
Thanks Jim.
Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year. I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again. Gotta have something to do next winter!
Next winter you'll want to put a 6 speed in it because you miss rowing thru the gears....
Winston Wolf said
Apr 5, 2011
frank wrote:
just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?
Tubing is alway measured by OD. Pipe is a nominal dimension. Hose is by ID.
SShink said
Apr 5, 2011
Winston Wolf wrote:
frank wrote:
just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?
Tubing is alway measured by OD. Pipe is a nominal dimension. Hose is by ID.
Yep, picked up the tubing last night and it's 1/8" OD.
jim larson said
Apr 5, 2011
SShink wrote:
jim larson wrote:
Engine bay looks nice. Looks like you installed a new brake booster and maybe master cylinder.
Thanks Jim.
Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year. I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again. Gotta have something to do next winter!
I've been checking around about plating. Looks like a few options. Not sure what was all plated besides from front cover.
I used the Eastwood kit. Kind of expensive at around $60 plus shipping. And don't spill any brake fluid or . I think replating is the way to go.
Tim H said
Apr 5, 2011
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
SShink said
Apr 5, 2011
Tim H wrote:
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
That sounds like the ticket. It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad. And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!
Chris R said
Apr 6, 2011
Thats what I would do. Is Eastwood an advertiser of ours?
SShink said
Apr 10, 2011
Made some steps forward and a couple backward this weekend.
First, everyone can sleep at night as the nylon oil pressure gauge line is now copper!
Got the 200-4R all connected and the new Shiftworks plate installed in the shifter. Here's the shifter with the all important 'OD' position:
Here's a shot of the linkage (I still need to find the pivot ball for the back drive linkage that moves the column collar for the reverse and neutral safety switches):
Now here's where the steps forward went backwards today. I installed the down pipes and connectors to the existing exhaust.
Then I realized the X pipe was too far forward now that I moved the trans cross member further to the rear of the car and it hit. Arrrrrgh. So, I pulled out the down pipes and X pipe assembly and I'll be stopping off at Midas tomorrow to have them make the adjustments. I've had a couple of people suggest putting in flanges on both ends of the X pipes so that I can drop it down anytime.
The other step forward/backward was hooking up the TV cable and adjusting it. I think I have the cable adjusted correctly at the carb, but the TV plunger on the trans is depressed about 1/8" and I think it is not supposed to be depressed at all. So, another call to John at Master Trans tomorrow to see what needs to be done, or tow it over to his shop after the exhaust is back in (it's less than a 1/2 mile from my house). It's always something.
Otherwise, it's got fluids in, the batteries charged, and it's ready to go other than the trans and exhaust challenges.
I had hoped to drive it to the meeting next weekend, and will still probably be able to. But, I looked at the weather for Sat. and it says snow and rain! Uckkkkk.
Chris R said
Apr 10, 2011
Stan. If you dont know the guys where your bringing your car to very well. DO NOT just drop off the car and pick it up later. Especially if its a Midas shop. I highly recommend bringing it to them and waiting for it. I would also highly consider riding along with them on the test drive.
SShink said
Apr 10, 2011
Chris R wrote:
Stan. If you dont know the guys where your bringing your car to very well. DO NOT just drop off the car and pick it up later. Especially if its a Midas shop. I highly recommend bringing it to them and waiting for it. I would also highly consider riding along with them on the test drive.
Chris, maybe I confused you with my post. I took the exhaust parts off the car and will drop the parts off at Midas once I explain what I want done.
The towing was referring to getting it over to Master Trans who I trust 100 percent.
Chris R said
Apr 10, 2011
Oh, gotcha. Im with you now.
I just noticed your pics above. Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.
Scott Parkhurst said
Apr 11, 2011
Chris R wrote: Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.
I thought I contributed to that 'fund' Stan? LOL!!
SShink said
Apr 11, 2011
Scott Parkhurst wrote:
Chris R wrote: Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.
I thought I contributed to that 'fund' Stan? LOL!!
Absolutely Scott!
I haven't gotten around to putting much on the walls since I'll just have to take it all back down when I finish them. What you provided is packed away safely.
jim larson said
Apr 11, 2011
SShink wrote:
Tim H wrote:
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
That sounds like the ticket. It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad. And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!
I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original 64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction. Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals. If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go. Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.
SShink said
Apr 11, 2011
Chris R wrote:
I just noticed your pics above. Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.
You mean like this?
And my Chevelle collection?
And the Shinker Chevelle Wall of Shame?
My favorite Chevelle poster that I've had just about longer than any of the Chevelle's I've had?
And the 76 sign I picked up at the Spring Fling last year?
Tim H said
Apr 11, 2011
jim larson wrote:
SShink wrote:
Tim H wrote:
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
That sounds like the ticket. It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad. And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!
I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original 64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction. Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals. If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go. Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.
The one I put in the 67 Camaro yesterday is not stamped. The original one I took out of the 70 El Camino is stamped but it is upside up on the stamp as is the last two I put in the Chevelles this year. I guess I've been lucky and haven't had an upside down one yet. I bought new ones because of the diaphram and the look of the new ones. There are places you can send your old one to be rebuilt and plated. We did that on the 69 Charger a couple of years ago. I just keep throwing the old ones away if anyone wants them they can have them.
We painted Rick's last year on the car in a couple of minutes it came out ok.
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:35:46 PM
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:38:10 PM
Chris R said
Apr 11, 2011
Its a fine poster but I never understood why they had every year on that one poster accept 66 and instead put 2 67s on it.
SShink said
Apr 12, 2011
Picked up the modified exhaust after work and installed. MAN I'm glad I don't do exhaust work for a living! It's the most frustrating thing lying on your back and having the parts fight you ALL the way!!!
And...............IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click on the picture below for a video:
Dashboard stopped over and gave me the QA check, and I passed. So, we disconnected the disty voltage, cranked it a few times to get gas into the carb, hooked up the disty voltage and she popped right off. I'm SOOOO glad I did the dyno!
It sounds great and is so quiet from the engine all the way back to the tailpipes until you turn the corner, and it sounds mean!
It even moved under it's own power. Well, a foot forward and a little back when I tried reverse and drive.
So now I have to wait for a nice day to go for a quick test drive then take it over to Master Trans to check out the trans.
So far so good!
-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:00:16 PM
Tony Hoffer said
Apr 12, 2011
On the thermostat thing.. I wouldnt run the restrictor disks.. Just get a good quality thermostat and drill two 1/8" holes in it..
SShink said
Apr 12, 2011
Tony Hoffer wrote:
On the thermostat thing.. I wouldnt run the restrictor disks.. Just get a good quality thermostat and drill two 1/8" holes in it..
I ended up putting in a 180 degree thermostat instead of the restrictors since I do drive as early as possible in the Spring and as late as possible in the Fall, so I do need floor heat.
Tonight in the garage with very little air flow, it was staying right at 180 to 190 degrees.
-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:32:23 PM
John D said
Apr 12, 2011
Very Cool!!
Another car close to making the season opener!
Chris R said
Apr 12, 2011
Thats what im talking about. Should be a fun first drive of the season.
jim larson said
Apr 13, 2011
Tim H wrote:
jim larson wrote:
SShink wrote:
Tim H wrote:
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
That sounds like the ticket. It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad. And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!
I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original 64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction. Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals. If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go. Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.
The one I put in the 67 Camaro yesterday is not stamped. The original one I took out of the 70 El Camino is stamped but it is upside up on the stamp as is the last two I put in the Chevelles this year. I guess I've been lucky and haven't had an upside down one yet. I bought new ones because of the diaphram and the look of the new ones. There are places you can send your old one to be rebuilt and plated. We did that on the 69 Charger a couple of years ago. I just keep throwing the old ones away if anyone wants them they can have them.
We painted Rick's last year on the car in a couple of minutes it came out ok.
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:35:46 PM
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:38:10 PM
Think I might be confused on the stamping and thing I miss stated something in the previous post. Pretty sure that the original 64-66 9" boosters came unstamped.
Think that the first of the 11" boosters maybe have been unstamped and some also came with the Delco stamping but it was upside down. Then later the stamping was changed of right side up.
Both booster are available from The Right Stuff with or without stamping. Without is around $110 and with stamping is around $150.
Non available with the stamping upside down, which I think is correct for the early applications.
There is a guy on TC, Scott Gregwire or something like that from Canada that does original MC and boosts. This the cost is around $120 plus shipping for just the replating. And a couple of guys out east.
Since my engine and entire cooling system is starting out dry for the re-install, I will probably mix DI water with the anti-freeze to keep tap water contaminants out of the system too.
Can't go wrong with the DI. We have a DI water system at work so I fill up a pail there.
Some MAJOR progress today with help from some friends and NCC members! Shout out to John D., Kevin, Rick, Tom, and Mike for the help today!!!
Here's some catch up first though. Pic of the engine bay primed and ready for paint:
Engine/Trans ready to go in:
How many guys does it take to get a BBC in (with some persuasion from my foot!):
And it's IN!
And time to kick back and appreciate the result!
Now it's back to putting all the accessories back on, connecting the exhaust, carb, etc.
Looks good. It feels good to, to finally put it back in place...
Even though I got there too late to help out (that darn job of mine is always getting in the way of my fun) I apperitiate the food and had a good time hanging out and BS'n in the warm sun.
Stan, Now you have to change your signature and get rid of the TH400
Steve, it was good to see you and Pushrod (and friends) as well.
Sig has been updated. Thanks for the reminder. I started this project in Nov. and forgot I had changed the sig then!
Now it's back to the cave to get some work done. Hope to drive it to the meeting in 2 weeks!
I'm already liking the exhaust manifolds and I haven't even started it yet!
I want to run the 'Oil' idiot light AND a gauge, so I needed to figure out a T somehow but forgot before the engine got put in. I went to remove the brass fitting and pressure switch, and it looked there wasn't enough room to spin it around, but I gave it a try and there was plenty of room!
There's NO WAY there would have been room to do this with headers...
Here's a couple of pics of the final setup to run both the gauge and light:
That was a good time. I think the only paint that got scuffed was a spot on the pan and the steering shaft. Pretty easy considering 800 lbs. of dead weight sliding in on an angle without "dinging" anything.
... we've all done something similar...)
(Whaddya think of the moniker "Transpad"?
Stan. Is it me or does the nylon pressure line touch the engine in that last pic? That stuff leaks just be looking at it wrong. I would try to rotate the fitting to move that tubing a little.
I agree with Chris about that stuff being leak prone. I would run the copper instead of the nylon especially if it is a mechanical gauge. It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...
Stan. Is it me or does the nylon pressure line touch the engine in that last pic? That stuff leaks just be looking at it wrong. I would try to rotate the fitting to move that tubing a little.
I agree with Chris about that stuff being leak prone. I would run the copper instead of the nylon especially if it is a mechanical gauge. It would really suck if the gauge side leaked oil inside the car...
I agree with Mike who agrees with Chris, ditch the nylon and use copper. Nylon is ok on a small block were the pickup is on the top of the block. On the BB it's right next to the hot exhaust manifold, copper will stay were you put it nylon will move around. If the nylon touches the exhaust manifold lots of bad thinks can happen, ranging from leaks to fires.
But, use what ever you want, if you stay with that nylon crap you need to be last in line when we cruise. So when it leaks and sprays oil out at 70psi it won't get on our cars. Plus if it starts on fire we won't need to drive around you.
Calm down guys... the line hasn't even been routed yet. It was just shoved up to get it out of the way as I took the pic after I installed the fittings.. The pic was just to show how clever I thought I was figuring out how to run the fittings...
I've used nylon line for over 25 years and not had a problem. As long as it is routed well away from pinch points, abrasion areas, and heat, it's fine.
Kevin, and to make you even more nervous, my green Chevelle that you followed last summer had nylon oil line AND headers to melt it with!
Ok, ok. So where does one purchase this small copper line that you speak of? O'Reilly's?
I got mine from Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3224/
I did that once. My first time putting in gauges and pinched the hose with the little brass fitting on the back of the guage. A '79 malibu dash will hold amost a quart of oil before it runs on your shoes.
Looks like I'll be making a stop at O'Reilly's to order this:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOR3/55134.oap?keyword=copper+tubing+astm+b-75
I was trying to remember who in the club said they had good luck with the nylon line. If it works for you. By all means. If you keep it secure enough, I could see it lasting a long time actually.
If you do decide to get copper line. Make sure to get the barrel shaped ferrules as well. I got the auto meter kit when I did mine and it came with the fittings for it. Im pretty sure any parts store has this kit in thier performance section. Or even CA Performance would also have it. You may be able to use the old fittings from the nylon tube but sometimes the ferrule compression fitting is smooshed too much to be re-used again.
just wondering is that 1/8 inside or outside diameter?
I think it's 1/8" OD. I ordered the tubing from O'Reilly's and will pick it up tonight.
Hate to see you torch this one and have to find another 72 in the world you haven't already owned....
So many Chevelles... so little time.
Thanks Jim.
Nope, I cleaned up and rattle canned the booster to get by until next year. I'll remove the booster, clean it up, and use the Eastwood kit to make it look like it was plated again. Gotta have something to do next winter!
Tubing is alway measured by OD. Pipe is a nominal dimension. Hose is by ID.
Yep, picked up the tubing last night and it's 1/8" OD.
I've been checking around about plating. Looks like a few options. Not sure what was all plated besides from front cover.
I used the Eastwood kit. Kind of expensive at around $60 plus shipping. And don't spill any brake fluid or
. I think replating is the way to go.
I've been buying new Delco boosters on Ebay for about $100
That sounds like the ticket. It's new, so no worries about a 40 year old diaphragm going bad. And the Eastwood kit is over half the cost and that isn't with any of my labor in cleaning up the old one!
Thats what I would do. Is Eastwood an advertiser of ours?
Made some steps forward and a couple backward this weekend.
First, everyone can sleep at night as the nylon oil pressure gauge line is now copper!
Got the 200-4R all connected and the new Shiftworks plate installed in the shifter. Here's the shifter with the all important 'OD' position:
Here's a shot of the linkage (I still need to find the pivot ball for the back drive linkage that moves the column collar for the reverse and neutral safety switches):
Now here's where the steps forward went backwards today. I installed the down pipes and connectors to the existing exhaust.
Then I realized the X pipe was too far forward now that I moved the trans cross member further to the rear of the car and it hit. Arrrrrgh. So, I pulled out the down pipes and X pipe assembly and I'll be stopping off at Midas tomorrow to have them make the adjustments. I've had a couple of people suggest putting in flanges on both ends of the X pipes so that I can drop it down anytime.
The other step forward/backward was hooking up the TV cable and adjusting it. I think I have the cable adjusted correctly at the carb, but the TV plunger on the trans is depressed about 1/8" and I think it is not supposed to be depressed at all. So, another call to John at Master Trans tomorrow to see what needs to be done, or tow it over to his shop after the exhaust is back in (it's less than a 1/2 mile from my house). It's always something.
Otherwise, it's got fluids in, the batteries charged, and it's ready to go other than the trans and exhaust challenges.
I had hoped to drive it to the meeting next weekend, and will still probably be able to. But, I looked at the weather for Sat. and it says snow and rain! Uckkkkk.
Stan. If you dont know the guys where your bringing your car to very well. DO NOT just drop off the car and pick it up later. Especially if its a Midas shop. I highly recommend bringing it to them and waiting for it. I would also highly consider riding along with them on the test drive.
Chris, maybe I confused you with my post. I took the exhaust parts off the car and will drop the parts off at Midas once I explain what I want done.
The towing was referring to getting it over to Master Trans who I trust 100 percent.
Oh, gotcha. Im with you now.
I just noticed your pics above. Your garage walls need more car and of course girlie pictures.
I thought I contributed to that 'fund' Stan? LOL!!
Absolutely Scott!
I haven't gotten around to putting much on the walls since I'll just have to take it all back down when I finish them. What you provided is packed away safely.
I've heard most of the Delco stamps are incorrect, for example original 64-66 Delco booster did not have a stamp like the reproduction. Later delco boosters had a stamp; but it was upside down, unlike the originals. If not concerned about the originals then the reproductions are the way to go. Inline tube, the right stuff, or other vendors.
You mean like this?
And my Chevelle collection?
And the Shinker Chevelle Wall of Shame?
My favorite Chevelle poster that I've had just about longer than any of the Chevelle's I've had?
And the 76 sign I picked up at the Spring Fling last year?
The one I put in the 67 Camaro yesterday is not stamped. The original one I took out of the 70 El Camino is stamped but it is upside up on the stamp as is the last two I put in the Chevelles this year. I guess I've been lucky and haven't had an upside down one yet. I bought new ones because of the diaphram and the look of the new ones. There are places you can send your old one to be rebuilt and plated. We did that on the 69 Charger a couple of years ago. I just keep throwing the old ones away if anyone wants them they can have them.
We painted Rick's last year on the car in a couple of minutes it came out ok.
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:35:46 PM
-- Edited by Tim H on Monday 11th of April 2011 09:38:10 PM
Its a fine poster but I never understood why they had every year on that one poster accept 66 and instead put 2 67s on it.
Picked up the modified exhaust after work and installed. MAN I'm glad I don't do exhaust work for a living! It's the most frustrating thing lying on your back and having the parts fight you ALL the way!!!
And...............IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click on the picture below for a video:
Dashboard stopped over and gave me the QA check, and I passed. So, we disconnected the disty voltage, cranked it a few times to get gas into the carb, hooked up the disty voltage and she popped right off. I'm SOOOO glad I did the dyno!
It sounds great and is so quiet from the engine all the way back to the tailpipes until you turn the corner, and it sounds mean!
It even moved under it's own power. Well, a foot forward and a little back when I tried reverse and drive.
So now I have to wait for a nice day to go for a quick test drive then take it over to Master Trans to check out the trans.
So far so good!
-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:00:16 PM
I ended up putting in a 180 degree thermostat instead of the restrictors since I do drive as early as possible in the Spring and as late as possible in the Fall, so I do need floor heat.
Tonight in the garage with very little air flow, it was staying right at 180 to 190 degrees.
-- Edited by SShink on Tuesday 12th of April 2011 08:32:23 PM
Very Cool!!
Another car close to making the season opener!
Thats what im talking about. Should be a fun first drive of the season.
Think I might be confused on the stamping and thing I miss stated something in the previous post. Pretty sure that the original 64-66 9" boosters came unstamped.
Think that the first of the 11" boosters maybe have been unstamped and some also came with the Delco stamping but it was upside down. Then later the stamping was changed of right side up.
Both booster are available from The Right Stuff with or without stamping. Without is around $110 and with stamping is around $150.
Non available with the stamping upside down, which I think is correct for the early applications.
There is a guy on TC, Scott Gregwire or something like that from Canada that does original MC and boosts. This the cost is around $120 plus shipping for just the replating. And a couple of guys out east.