Hi Stan, It had a rusty area that got cut out and replaced with new steel. That was long before I started down the slippery slope of the CAC old saying "well while I'm at it"... Still planning to just "Refurbish" for now, perhaps just a better job than planned. Time will tell.
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 26th of November 2017 04:59:52 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 25th of March 2018 02:05:18 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 26, 2017
BLyke wrote:
Hi Stan, It had a rusty area that got cut out and replaced with new steel. That was long before I started down the slippery slope of the CAC old saying "well while I'm at it"... Still planning to just "Refurbish" for now, perhaps just a better job than planned. Time will tell.
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 26th of November 2017 04:59:52 PM
"refurbished" with a new 1 piece floor ...
I know where there is a rotisserie you can use for a few months...
BLyke said
Nov 26, 2017
"refurbished" with a new 1 piece floor .."
Hi Mitch,
What is really needed the whole new body and a Art Morrison frame for starters.
That will take me north of 25 K and still need a lot.
Going to be more focused on the parts you see for now
still not sure i can get the rear quarters to look right
You will be glad to know I and stripped some of the black gunk off of the firewall
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 27, 2017
Art Morrison, whew, you are reaching for the stars now...
There are challenges with the convert quarters and wheel houses, but, as you probably know, the coupe quarter skins can be modified to fit.
Wheel houses can be sectioned from coupe too, as long as the damage doesn't extend into the convert specific areas...then it's hand fabricate time.
Bobs_Place said
Nov 27, 2017
A roll bar would be easy to install on a convert!
BLyke said
Nov 27, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Art Morrison, whew, you are reaching for the stars now...
There are challenges with the convert quarters and wheel houses, but, as you probably know, the coupe quarter skins can be modified to fit.
Wheel houses can be sectioned from coupe too, as long as the damage doesn't extend into the convert specific areas...then it's hand fabricate time.
Ya, just trying to make a point on how far a guy could go.
Maybe if i sell it to start up a pizza business, i'll buy it bach later for ~$250K and then toss buckets of money at it.
For now i will settle for some "new to me doors" i picked up tonight so i can fave most of my time and elbow grease for the quarters
Picks to follow.
BLyke said
Nov 27, 2017
Bobs_Place wrote:
A roll bar would be easy to install on a convert!
yep, but I really like it as wide open as possible, but will keep the windshield.
BLyke said
Nov 29, 2017
here are the doors, very solid.
basically a 3 way trade for my old Grand Prix bucket seats
Wow, looks like fresh paint...the donor get crashed ?
BLyke said
Nov 30, 2017
No, they are not quite as nice as the pictures make them look. They will look a lot better then the old ones.
-- Edited by BLyke on Friday 26th of January 2018 05:04:52 AM
BLyke said
Jan 28, 2018
Guess it is time for some updates
Decided that while i ponder the best way to "tweak" the body line at the door jam (have a good idea on how to proceed, but like to do it in my head before the cutting starts), due to previous bad work (resulting in piles of Bondo, id bite the bullet and start on the radiator mount.
It along with most things under the hood was sprayed with some sort of undercoat/bed-liner. At 3 dust pans full so far and still have a ways to go.
A new scraper tool that i got for under 10 on line is really helping, so much better than the little silver ones with a retractable blade.
May as well start cleaning up the frame, also covered with a thick layer... and no Mitch, not planning to pull the engine and tranny (at least not yet?!)
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 28th of January 2018 08:24:50 AM
Yuck, that's a nasty crease with a lot of stretched metal. From the book "Principles of Metal Bumping", I would start were the crease ends and try to push it out from inside as best I could, working toward the front. That will move the metal forward to reshape the jam. Basically reversing the crease to the outside where it can then be shrunk back to size. Shrinking disc and cold water in a spray bottle to shrink it back into place. Lots of hours of patience will get it much better.
BLyke said
Jan 28, 2018
I do have the book, but the worst part is the contour that should march the door is off, as if the gap from top to bottom. Note to self, again... Next car try to start with la ow rust car that have never had the body worked on. (The comment I have resolved to follow many times)
Lost in the 60s said
Jan 28, 2018
The edge of the quarter at the bend into the jam is pushed back and in. By moving metal forward, you will gain metal to push the edge back into shape.
You can see that in the first pic. Looking at the quarter skin from the door back, it appears as a wave, starting too low and going too high. By moving the metal forward, it relieves the stress caused by the edge being pushed back and allows the low area immediately behind it to rise, which allows the high area further back to relax and lower.
Never going to be perfect, but much less "chemical filler" to blend and smooth.
more ambition than brains said
Jan 29, 2018
Are there any good mark panels out there that could be tweaked to move the seam up and create a decent lock pillar contour? Section at upper edge. replace all of lower, including the area already sectioned in.
Still happy to stop by and "consult"
Karl
BLyke said
Jan 29, 2018
Thanks Karl and Mitch, Actually I as able to get it cleaned up a bit by making a patch, bumping some areas and we working some of the old panel welding (cut, moved a bit and re-welded)
we shall see, will post a new picture when i make the last tweak As far as a drop in consultation, appreciate the offer, when I'm on the project is very sporadic at this point
Update, with the work here, the heaviest layers of "Rage Ultra Plus" will less than the thinnest i took off. Fits well with my goal to "Fix up" my driver, happy with the new vertical gap. It should look a lot better. the lower section may need a patch too.
Drivers side reference view also
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:33:04 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:33:32 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:35:49 PM
Thinking that maybe the car will get better mileage and go faster with the pounds is is shedding
Looks great Bruce!
I think the vert I had lost at least 100 pounds during the resto between all the rust, bondo, and the 1/4" thick steel plate trunk pan that somebody thought was a good idea to cover up all the rust in the trunk.
BLyke said
Feb 25, 2018
As the infomercials like to say..But wait, there's more!
Will be replacing part of the rear before putting the purchased panel on.
OK, what is the black hood ?? New? sectioned in from the yellow and painted ??
BLyke said
Apr 3, 2018
Decided to splurge a bit on this one. It has been in a guys shop for may years It is in primer but in very nice shape, price was on par with a repop Sounds like he never even got around to mounting it on a car. Not sure why he seemed to think it was for a Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS) Any ideas on how to best remove the tag on the inside?
I have a rubber eraser wheel that I use. If it is factory EDP primer, you can loosen the adhesive with a rag wetted with brake cleaner too. Now you're starting to look like me, buy 3 of 1 part until you get what you want...
BLyke said
Apr 3, 2018
hi Mitch,
was just kidding on the OEM NOS sticker removal.
did not think there were many out there.
SShink said
Apr 4, 2018
BLyke wrote:
Not sure why he seemed to think it was for a Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS)
I think he meant 'New Old Stock'?
Sorry if I'm misunderstanding your comment.
BLyke said
Apr 4, 2018
Hi Stan,
yep, it does, was just trying to be funny, should have posted on 4/1/18 as i originally planed
BLyke said
Apr 6, 2018
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Now you're starting to look like me, buy 3 of 1 part until you get what you want...
Actually i want to sell the old flat hood, as well as the "Fixer-upper.
Will offer a members discount if any one is interested
Am willing to give the cowl hood a member who is up for the transplant, if they will post pictures here.
-- Edited by BLyke on Saturday 7th of April 2018 07:08:35 AM
BLyke said
Apr 10, 2018
May be in CAC a bit longer..
Ordered a floor section for the drivers front and one for under the rear seat. At least they don't have to be shiny.
SShink said
Apr 11, 2018
BLyke wrote:
May be in CAC a bit longer.. Ordered a floor section for the drivers front and one for under the rear seat. At least they don't have to be shiny.
I'll be following this Bruce on the floor section work under the rear seat, as I have the same issue on the drivers side rear of my '71.
BLyke said
Apr 11, 2018
SShink wrote:
BLyke wrote:
May be in CAC a bit longer.. Ordered a floor section for the drivers front and one for under the rear seat. At least they don't have to be shiny.
I'll be following this Bruce on the floor section work under the rear seat, as I have the same issue on the drivers side rear of my '71.
Hi Stan,
there is a new one available at ~1/2 most of what was on line. Seems one that was around may have been discontinued.
should see it next week, no clue as to when it will get installed :-)
floor just showed up, not sure i could buy the steel at fleet farm for the formed and delivered to my door cost.
BLyke said
Apr 14, 2018
SO, since it is apparently still mid winter..... Think it should be fine to all a few more things to "the to do list". Seems there are ~2-3 more months left, Cheryl put on Christmas music this morning
-- Edited by BLyke on Saturday 14th of April 2018 08:04:34 AM
BLyke said
Apr 20, 2018
Update on the floor for under the rear seat.
got a notice there had been damage in shipment, then a notice the order was cancelled and i got a refund
now there really ant any as cheap when shipping is included. oh well, orders a different one.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 20, 2018
BLyke wrote:
Update on the floor for under the rear seat. got a notice there had been damage in shipment, then a notice the order was cancelled and i got a refund now there really ant any as cheap when shipping is included. oh well, orders a different one.
Have you called Denny, up at Auto city Classics to see if they stock this ? There wouldn't be any shipping and we may be able to transfer it down here in stages...
SShink said
Apr 20, 2018
Lost in the 60s wrote:
BLyke wrote:
Update on the floor for under the rear seat. got a notice there had been damage in shipment, then a notice the order was cancelled and i got a refund now there really ant any as cheap when shipping is included. oh well, orders a different one.
Have you called Denny, up at Auto city Classics to see if they stock this ? There wouldn't be any shipping and we may be able to transfer it down here in stages...
Chris P., Chris S., and I all live within 15 min. or so of ACC, so let us know if you need us to pick something up.
BLyke said
Apr 21, 2018
good point on Auto City, Have used them in the past. however i alreay did one click buy on line for the one i had been watching for ~9-10 months.
thanks for the offer and suggestions.
Did sell both hoods yesterday.
SShink said
Apr 23, 2018
BLyke wrote:
Did sell both hoods yesterday.
Did you recruit the buyer(s) into the club like I did with you when you bought my gas tank?
Hi Stan,
It had a rusty area that got cut out and replaced with new steel. That was long before I started down the slippery slope of the CAC old saying "well while I'm at it"...
Still planning to just "Refurbish" for now, perhaps just a better job than planned. Time will tell.
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 26th of November 2017 04:59:52 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 25th of March 2018 02:05:18 PM
"refurbished" with a new 1 piece floor ...
I know where there is a rotisserie you can use for a few months...
Hi Mitch,
What is really needed the whole new body and a Art Morrison frame for starters.
That will take me north of 25 K and still need a lot.
Going to be more focused on the parts you see for now
still not sure i can get the rear quarters to look right
You will be glad to know I and stripped some of the black gunk off of the firewall
Art Morrison, whew, you are reaching for the stars now...
There are challenges with the convert quarters and wheel houses, but, as you probably know, the coupe quarter skins can be modified to fit.
Wheel houses can be sectioned from coupe too, as long as the damage doesn't extend into the convert specific areas...then it's hand fabricate time.
A roll bar would be easy to install on a convert!
Ya, just trying to make a point on how far a guy could go.
Maybe if i sell it to start up a pizza business, i'll buy it bach later for ~$250K and then toss buckets of money at it.
For now i will settle for some "new to me doors" i picked up tonight so i can fave most of my time and elbow grease for the quarters
Picks to follow.
yep, but I really like it as wide open as possible, but will keep the windshield.
here are the doors, very solid.
basically a 3 way trade for my old Grand Prix bucket seats
No, they are not quite as nice as the pictures make them look. They will look a lot better then the old ones.
-- Edited by BLyke on Friday 26th of January 2018 05:04:52 AM
Guess it is time for some updates
Decided that while i ponder the best way to "tweak" the body line at the door jam (have a good idea on how to proceed, but like to do it in my head before the cutting starts), due to previous bad work (resulting in piles of Bondo, id bite the bullet and start on the radiator mount.
It along with most things under the hood was sprayed with some sort of undercoat/bed-liner. At 3 dust pans full so far and still have a ways to go.
A new scraper tool that i got for under 10 on line is really helping, so much better than the little silver ones with a retractable blade.
May as well start cleaning up the frame, also covered with a thick layer... and no Mitch, not planning to pull the engine and tranny (at least not yet?!)
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 28th of January 2018 08:24:50 AM
I do have the book, but the worst part is the contour that should march the door is off, as if the gap from top to bottom.
)
Note to self, again... Next car try to start with la ow rust car that have never had the body worked on. (The comment I have resolved to follow many times
You can see that in the first pic. Looking at the quarter skin from the door back, it appears as a wave, starting too low and going too high. By moving the metal forward, it relieves the stress caused by the edge being pushed back and allows the low area immediately behind it to rise, which allows the high area further back to relax and lower.
Never going to be perfect, but much less "chemical filler" to blend and smooth.
Are there any good mark panels out there that could be tweaked to move the seam up and create a decent lock pillar contour?
Section at upper edge. replace all of lower, including the area already sectioned in.
Still happy to stop by and "consult"
Karl
Thanks Karl and Mitch,
Actually I as able to get it cleaned up a bit by making a patch, bumping some areas and we working some of the old panel welding (cut, moved a bit and re-welded)
we shall see, will post a new picture when i make the last tweak
As far as a drop in consultation, appreciate the offer, when I'm on the project is very sporadic at this point
Update, with the work here, the heaviest layers of "Rage Ultra Plus" will less than the thinnest i took off. Fits well with my goal to "Fix up" my driver, happy with the new vertical gap. It should look a lot better. the lower section may need a patch too.
Drivers side reference view also
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:33:04 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:33:32 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 29th of January 2018 09:35:49 PM
Fender in a can, wonderful stuff!
Karl
Yep. Keep in mind this started with replacing a leaky gas tank.
"Chipping away" at the mess the PO made.
Thinking that maybe the car will get better mileage and go faster with the pounds is is shedding
Looks great Bruce!
I think the vert I had lost at least 100 pounds during the resto between all the rust, bondo, and the 1/4" thick steel plate trunk pan that somebody thought was a good idea to cover up all the rust in the trunk.
As the infomercials like to say..But wait, there's more!
Will be replacing part of the rear before putting the purchased panel on.
Are you going to chase that trunk lip all the way to the quarters before attaching the upper panel ?
Fortunately the bottom layer is very solid.
The back ~5' are home made patches too.
getting there...
Well the price was right and it will fit right in with the rest of the repairs that have been ongoing.
Picked this and a new dash from CL.
Making progress on the back end new metal in and corners reworked to remove the ~5/8" of mud taking the fenders a back to the trunk lid.
Mostly need to clean up and then a bit of filler (yes, but way less than was there) for the "Fix-up"
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 25th of March 2018 02:15:50 PM
Looks good Bruce!
contemplated transplant to the after bondo removal on OEM Hood.
Final outcome of OEM Hood.
Some times you just have to regroup and get creative.
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 2nd of April 2018 09:43:56 PM
Decided to splurge a bit on this one. It has been in a guys shop for may years
It is in primer but in very nice shape, price was on par with a repop
Sounds like he never even got around to mounting it on a car.
Not sure why he seemed to think it was for a Nitrous Oxide Systems (NOS)
Any ideas on how to best remove the tag on the inside?
I have a rubber eraser wheel that I use.
If it is factory EDP primer, you can loosen the adhesive with a rag wetted with brake cleaner too.
Now you're starting to look like me, buy 3 of 1 part until you get what you want...
was just kidding on the OEM NOS sticker removal.
did not think there were many out there.
I think he meant 'New Old Stock'?
Sorry if I'm misunderstanding your comment.
Hi Stan,
yep, it does, was just trying to be funny,
should have posted on 4/1/18 as i originally planed
Actually i want to sell the old flat hood, as well as the "Fixer-upper.
Will offer a members discount if any one is interested
Am willing to give the cowl hood a member who is up for the transplant, if they will post pictures here.
have them on CL.
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/pts/d/chevelle-hood/6552177779.html
-- Edited by BLyke on Saturday 7th of April 2018 07:08:35 AM
Ordered a floor section for the drivers front and one for under the rear seat. At least they don't have to be shiny.
I'll be following this Bruce on the floor section work under the rear seat, as I have the same issue on the drivers side rear of my '71.
Hi Stan,
there is a new one available at ~1/2 most of what was on line. Seems one that was around may have been discontinued.
should see it next week, no clue as to when it will get installed :-)
floor just showed up, not sure i could buy the steel at fleet farm for the formed and delivered to my door cost.
SO, since it is apparently still mid winter..... Think it should be fine to all a few more things to "the to do list".
Seems there are ~2-3 more months left, Cheryl put on Christmas music this morning
-- Edited by BLyke on Saturday 14th of April 2018 08:04:34 AM
got a notice there had been damage in shipment, then a notice the order was cancelled and i got a refund
now there really ant any as cheap when shipping is included. oh well, orders a different one.
Have you called Denny, up at Auto city Classics to see if they stock this ? There wouldn't be any shipping and we may be able to transfer it down here in stages...
Chris P., Chris S., and I all live within 15 min. or so of ACC, so let us know if you need us to pick something up.
thanks for the offer and suggestions.
Did sell both hoods yesterday.
Did you recruit the buyer(s) into the club like I did with you when you bought my gas tank?