Thanks, guys. It's exciting and profound at the same time to hear this engine alive again after 40 YEARS.
SShink said
Mar 22, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Thanks, guys. It's exciting and profound at the same time to hear this engine alive again after 40 YEARS.
Sorry, I forget the story on this engine. Is this the one originally from your '70?
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 22, 2017
Yes, this is the original LS5 from the '70 I bought in '73. I sold it to my, then, b-i-l around '76-77 to install an LS6 I bought. I re-connected with him about 10 years ago and eventually got the engine back, but it had been rebuilt to smog specs to reduce hp. I had intended to rebuild it for the black '70 SS I had, but that car was so rough, I never did much with it.
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 12, 2017
New package tray installed.
Then John and I spent several hours re-shaping the rear most channel for the trunk seal to sit properly. The tray was a great piece until we got to this. They really need a LOT of work yet to get this right.
Old tray...
New tray...
Some of the "mods".
more ambition than brains said
Apr 12, 2017
Purrrty!!!!
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 12, 2017
We were checking fit of the extension panel and found the repair cove panel I welded in last year didn't match up well with the new panel, so I sliced up the corner and added spacers to move it up more.
Then, we welded the extension panel on with the spot welder...
No grinding of mig welds down in the trunk seal channel !!
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 15, 2017
A couple weeks ago, I took all the front sheet metal, dash panel and trunk lid to Blast Masters to clean them off for paint.
I brought them back last Friday and talked with the blaster about doing the body and he really preferred I remove it from the finished chassis to avoid any "issues", soooo I borrowed this cart from Karl yesterday and proceeded to put the body on it today.
There's no way the steering shaft was coming out with the column without removing the header and there's NO WAY I'm fighting that battle again, so, I removed the column from inside and left the shaft on the chassis.
Problem with that plan was, as I lifted the body, the shaft bound up, so I had to lift the front of the chassis along with the body until it was high enough for the rear wheels to roll under. I also needed 300#'s of ballast on the front to keep the body level on the forks.
After enough back-and-forth between the lift and jack, it came apart.
Almost ready to get blasted. There are several small issues on the firewall that I was going to ignore, since I couldn't get at them with the body on the frame. Now I have no excuse and will do the repairs before it goes out.
jim larson said
Aug 16, 2017
Looks good, have you found a painter yet?
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 16, 2017
jim larson wrote:
Looks good, have you found a painter yet?
YES !!! I just talked with him and it's a GO sometime in the next 2 weeks. I am waiting for the blaster to give a date to bring the body down...
jim larson said
Aug 16, 2017
more ambition than brains said
Aug 16, 2017
Looks pretty "sporty" maybe we should ordor out some 22" wheel with rubber band tires for the dolly.
Larry Lucast said
Aug 17, 2017
Almost ready for paint! That's an exciting milestone.
OscarZ said
Aug 18, 2017
Putting it back on the chassis should be fun threading the needle. May need a tech session.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 18, 2017
OscarZ wrote:
Putting it back on the chassis should be fun threading the needle. May need a tech session.
I have a ps box I got at Lares last year to replace the manual box. I'm going to attempt to remove the manual box and shaft to see if it can go back in with the body/column on the chassis. If not, I'll reverse the removal procedure and yes, more people to help guide might be a help.
Right after we get together at the presidents house and help him build a car...
67ss said
Aug 18, 2017
Does your car not have the correct steering shaft that bolts at the rag joint of the steering box? I thought they did that just for that reason of getting the shaft past the exhaust.
-- Edited by 67ss on Friday 18th of August 2017 09:23:48 AM
jim larson said
Aug 18, 2017
Thinking that the SS cars had a removable flange on the steering column. non SS cars had a staked flange.
Not sure on the manual steering box, but the PS box has a rag joint that slips over and bolts to the input shaft, that then bolts to the removable steering column flange.
Lars has repo parts; but their rag joint is a little different.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 18, 2017
Refer to pic #3. It does have the bolted flange, but there's no way it is coming out with the headers installed.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 18, 2017
Blaster man called....he wants it Monday afternoon.
jim larson said
Aug 18, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
OscarZ wrote:
Putting it back on the chassis should be fun threading the needle. May need a tech session.
I have a ps box I got at Lares last year to replace the manual box. I'm going to attempt to remove the manual box and shaft to see if it can go back in with the body/column on the chassis. If not, I'll reverse the removal procedure and yes, more people to help guide might be a help.
Right after we get together at the presidents house and help him build a car...
When I rebuilt my PS gear I was able to remove and install it from the bottom of the car. thinking you rag joint might be a little different as your gear might have a 3/4 input shaft instead of the 13/16 used in 66.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 21, 2017
The body went to Blaster Master today. Last pics of the multi-colored Chevelle...
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 26, 2017
It's actually starting. I was beginning to think this would never happen, but I dropped off all the loose sheet metal at the painters this morning and will be retrieving the body from Blast Master on Monday...
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 28, 2017
Naked Chevelle, back from the blaster
He found more issues to deal with.
Enganeer said
Aug 28, 2017
Those should be a piece of cake for you.
more ambition than brains said
Aug 28, 2017
What is next, epoxy and then start patching? Starting over on firewall? Looks Nekked too!
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 28, 2017
Yep, since I took the body off again, I had him blast the firewall too. We are starting from scratch with proper prep and materials this time..
Front clip is at the painters for prep and epoxy.
Thomas liked the cart. He took pics and measurements and would like to build one for bodies that come in for blasting. He said it was really easy to roll around. Took 3 times of repairing the right rear tire to get it to hold air.
Larry Lucast said
Aug 29, 2017
Just when you think it is finally ready for paint, and now more rust repair. Those look pretty easy for you.
I like you new avatar.
jim larson said
Aug 29, 2017
Larry Lucast wrote:
Just when you think it is finally ready for paint, and now more rust repair. Those look pretty easy for you. I like you new avatar.
Looks like a flag, thinking I should have a similar one in my garage. Is there a link to a vender?
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 30, 2017
jim larson wrote:
Larry Lucast wrote:
Just when you think it is finally ready for paint, and now more rust repair. Those look pretty easy for you. I like you new avatar.
Looks like a flag, thinking I should have a similar one in my garage. Is there a link to a vender?
I bought it on-line from a link I followed from a facebook page link that my second cousin from my Mother's side sent to me....
I went to the website and they don't seem to have them anymore ...
I'll see if I can come up with the original link and try to find the flags again, they had dozens of different designs a few months ago.
Tim H said
Sep 26, 2017
Just getting caught up on what you got going on Mitch.You sure do take on some sizable project. Looks great.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 27, 2017
Tim H wrote:
Just getting caught up on what you got going on Mitch.You sure do take on some sizable project. Looks great.
and this coming from the master of restoration...
Car has been on hold for 2 weeks, the painter went to CO for a vacation. He called last night and I am bringing the body to him on Sat morning.
Karl, if you read this, yes, I would like to get a hood from you. We are going to try the "make my own" SS hood from 2.
My weekend was already busy when he called. I loaded up the back of my truck yesterday for the swap meet. I need to get the '38 off the roll back and onto the trailer, and the body back on the roll back so I can take it to Jim at 9 am Sat. Then get home, hook up the trailer and be at the fairgrounds by 11:30 to set up for Sunday. Then home from there to go to a birthday get together at my brothers house in Bethel. Then be back around 7 am Sunday at the swap meet..
jim larson said
Sep 27, 2017
There was a thread a few years back on TC where a guy took a good Malibu hood and the guts of a SS and made a SS hood, not sure which section; but probably the restoration or body. It looked good when he was done. it would be worth while if you could find the thread.
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 28, 2017
more ambition than brains said
Sep 30, 2017
Hood, 8" rally's, wasn't there something else?
Beautiful work, by the way.
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Sep 30, 2017
more ambition than brains wrote:
Hood, 8" rally's, wasn't there something else?
Beautiful work, by the way.
Karl
that would require a memory...sounds like enough to me...thanks
Tim H said
Oct 5, 2017
Nice metalwork Mitch
67ss said
Nov 2, 2017
Ok something has to have paint on it by now. Where are some pictures, I want to see my favorite color.
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 2, 2017
67ss wrote:
Ok something has to have paint on it by now. Where are some pictures, I want to see my favorite color.
I'm waiting to hear from the painter about bringing the body back to mount on chassis ???
I took Andrew's car back yesterday so I would have room to do this. Guess I'll have to call him.
BLyke said
Nov 2, 2017
keep it up, eventually you will find the last of the rust
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 26, 2017
Got the body back a couple weeks ago with the firewall in final color. Much of the bodywork is done too.
John and I shrink wrapped as much of the frame as practical before dropping the body on. I also shrink wrapped the gas tank before installing. trying to prevent accidental overspray issues.
Installed drain tubes in the rear window corners. I had told him I wanted to do this when it came back from the firewall painting, but he did a LOT of bodywork before sending it back. He also filled in a large gap, I wanted to weld shut, with seam sealer. I dug all the sealer out and did the repair.
Installed enough parts to make it move and stop by itself and took it back to the painter today.
Larry Lucast said
Nov 26, 2017
That is real progress. The end is in sight.
jim larson said
Nov 27, 2017
Maybe a photo of it in paint before the new year.
thats a good idea on the drain holes; did you do that in the front or just make the originl ones larger? With the firewall gray what color are you planning for the inner fenders and. Underside of the hood?
Lost in the 60s said
Nov 27, 2017
Everything under the hood will match the Gunmetal.
Been trying to talk with you about the seat backs...
jim larson said
Nov 27, 2017
same old email, racjim23@gmail.com
They are original backs out of a 66 impala, I have the backs and the bottoms. Backs are excellent, bottoms have a couple of small rust throughs on two of the four skirts.
Lost in the 60s said
Mar 20, 2018
Here it is, 6 months later, and I got fed up with my painter and brought the car home again. He screwed up my new door skins so badly, there is no saving them, so I bought a good original right door and am waiting on the left one. The only part of the car that is painted is the trunk lid. He used that as a test panel for me to decide if the color looks right. Really ? the whole trunk lid ? How are you going to match that to the rest of the car when you paint it ? "Oh, I'll just scuff the lid and blend it"....NO FRIGGEN way did I envision my car being painted in pieces like that. He also pushed the oil pan in jacking the car up to put it on stands and has overspray on the underside, that I clearly told him to protect, as it is all in paint and powder coat and DONE.
The door I got fit the body well and lined up nicely with the body lines but left a huge gap under the A pillar cover.
I cut 3 strips from a floor pan I had here and built up the door to fill the gap.
jim larson said
Mar 21, 2018
Sorry to about the painter issues. I have heard that there were little changes in the doors in 66 with three different changes, the most known being the location of the holes punched for the window fuzzier and have heard that the fit along the a pillar was different along with the door knob design. I would still recommend the guy that does my painting here in Lake City. I have heard that the factory painted the body with doors and truck lid installed and on the chassis and then on different days painted the front fenders, hoods, and filler panel, so there was little differences in colors.
Finally got a vid of the engine running to load on photobucket. The hum at the beginning is the shop exhaust fan.
https://vid1357.photobucket.com/albums/q752/Stillwaterchevs/1966%20Chevelle/DSCF0478_zpsijynfjog.mp4
Love Big Blocks!!
Sounds great!!!!
Thanks for hosting yesterday.
Karl
Thanks, guys. It's exciting and profound at the same time to hear this engine alive again after 40 YEARS.
Sorry, I forget the story on this engine. Is this the one originally from your '70?
Yes, this is the original LS5 from the '70 I bought in '73. I sold it to my, then, b-i-l around '76-77 to install an LS6 I bought. I re-connected with him about 10 years ago and eventually got the engine back, but it had been rebuilt to smog specs to reduce hp. I had intended to rebuild it for the black '70 SS I had, but that car was so rough, I never did much with it.
New package tray installed.
Then John and I spent several hours re-shaping the rear most channel for the trunk seal to sit properly. The tray was a great piece until we got to this. They really need a LOT of work yet to get this right.
Old tray...
New tray...
Some of the "mods".
Purrrty!!!!
Karl
We were checking fit of the extension panel and found the repair cove panel I welded in last year didn't match up well with the new panel, so I sliced up the corner and added spacers to move it up more.
Then, we welded the extension panel on with the spot welder...
No grinding of mig welds down in the trunk seal channel !!
A couple weeks ago, I took all the front sheet metal, dash panel and trunk lid to Blast Masters to clean them off for paint.
I brought them back last Friday and talked with the blaster about doing the body and he really preferred I remove it from the finished chassis to avoid any "issues", soooo I borrowed this cart from Karl yesterday and proceeded to put the body on it today.
There's no way the steering shaft was coming out with the column without removing the header and there's NO WAY I'm fighting that battle again, so, I removed the column from inside and left the shaft on the chassis.
Problem with that plan was, as I lifted the body, the shaft bound up, so I had to lift the front of the chassis along with the body until it was high enough for the rear wheels to roll under. I also needed 300#'s of ballast on the front to keep the body level on the forks.
After enough back-and-forth between the lift and jack, it came apart.
Almost ready to get blasted. There are several small issues on the firewall that I was going to ignore, since I couldn't get at them with the body on the frame. Now I have no excuse and will do the repairs before it goes out.
Looks good, have you found a painter yet?
YES !!! I just talked with him and it's a GO sometime in the next 2 weeks. I am waiting for the blaster to give a date to bring the body down...
Looks pretty "sporty" maybe we should ordor out some 22" wheel with rubber band tires for the dolly.
Putting it back on the chassis should be fun threading the needle. May need a tech session.
I have a ps box I got at Lares last year to replace the manual box. I'm going to attempt to remove the manual box and shaft to see if it can go back in with the body/column on the chassis. If not, I'll reverse the removal procedure and yes, more people to help guide might be a help.
Right after we get together at the presidents house and help him build a car...
Does your car not have the correct steering shaft that bolts at the rag joint of the steering box? I thought they did that just for that reason of getting the shaft past the exhaust.
-- Edited by 67ss on Friday 18th of August 2017 09:23:48 AM
Thinking that the SS cars had a removable flange on the steering column. non SS cars had a staked flange.
Not sure on the manual steering box, but the PS box has a rag joint that slips over and bolts to the input shaft, that then bolts to the removable steering column flange.
Lars has repo parts; but their rag joint is a little different.
Blaster man called....he wants it Monday afternoon.
When I rebuilt my PS gear I was able to remove and install it from the bottom of the car. thinking you rag joint might be a little different as your gear might have a 3/4 input shaft instead of the 13/16 used in 66.
The body went to Blaster Master today. Last pics of the multi-colored Chevelle...
It's actually starting. I was beginning to think this would never happen, but I dropped off all the loose sheet metal at the painters this morning and will be retrieving the body from Blast Master on Monday...
Naked Chevelle, back from the blaster
He found more issues to deal with.
What is next, epoxy and then start patching?
Starting over on firewall?
Looks Nekked too!
Karl
Yep, since I took the body off again, I had him blast the firewall too. We are starting from scratch with proper prep and materials this time..
Front clip is at the painters for prep and epoxy.
Thomas liked the cart. He took pics and measurements and would like to build one for bodies that come in for blasting. He said it was really easy to roll around. Took 3 times of repairing the right rear tire to get it to hold air.
I like you new avatar.
Looks like a flag, thinking I should have a similar one in my garage. Is there a link to a vender?
I bought it on-line from a link I followed from a facebook page link that my second cousin from my Mother's side sent to me....
I went to the website and they don't seem to have them anymore ...
I'll see if I can come up with the original link and try to find the flags again, they had dozens of different designs a few months ago.
Car has been on hold for 2 weeks, the painter went to CO for a vacation. He called last night and I am bringing the body to him on Sat morning.
Karl, if you read this, yes, I would like to get a hood from you. We are going to try the "make my own" SS hood from 2.
My weekend was already busy when he called. I loaded up the back of my truck yesterday for the swap meet. I need to get the '38 off the roll back and onto the trailer, and the body back on the roll back so I can take it to Jim at 9 am Sat. Then get home, hook up the trailer and be at the fairgrounds by 11:30 to set up for Sunday. Then home from there to go to a birthday get together at my brothers house in Bethel. Then be back around 7 am Sunday at the swap meet..
There was a thread a few years back on TC where a guy took a good Malibu hood and the guts of a SS and made a SS hood, not sure which section; but probably the restoration or body. It looked good when he was done. it would be worth while if you could find the thread.
Hood, 8" rally's, wasn't there something else?
Beautiful work, by the way.
Karl
Ok something has to have paint on it by now. Where are some pictures, I want to see my favorite color.
I'm waiting to hear from the painter about bringing the body back to mount on chassis ???
I took Andrew's car back yesterday so I would have room to do this. Guess I'll have to call him.
Got the body back a couple weeks ago with the firewall in final color. Much of the bodywork is done too.
John and I shrink wrapped as much of the frame as practical before dropping the body on. I also shrink wrapped the gas tank before installing. trying to prevent accidental overspray issues.
Installed drain tubes in the rear window corners. I had told him I wanted to do this when it came back from the firewall painting, but he did a LOT of bodywork before sending it back. He also filled in a large gap, I wanted to weld shut, with seam sealer. I dug all the sealer out and did the repair.
Installed enough parts to make it move and stop by itself and took it back to the painter today.
Maybe a photo of it in paint before the new year.
thats a good idea on the drain holes; did you do that in the front or just make the originl ones larger? With the firewall gray what color are you planning for the inner fenders and. Underside of the hood?
Everything under the hood will match the Gunmetal.
Been trying to talk with you about the seat backs...
same old email, racjim23@gmail.com
They are original backs out of a 66 impala, I have the backs and the bottoms. Backs are excellent, bottoms have a couple of small rust throughs on two of the four skirts.
Here it is, 6 months later, and I got fed up with my painter and brought the car home again. He screwed up my new door skins so badly, there is no saving them, so I bought a good original right door and am waiting on the left one. The only part of the car that is painted is the trunk lid. He used that as a test panel for me to decide if the color looks right. Really ? the whole trunk lid ? How are you going to match that to the rest of the car when you paint it ? "Oh, I'll just scuff the lid and blend it"....NO FRIGGEN way did I envision my car being painted in pieces like that. He also pushed the oil pan in jacking the car up to put it on stands and has overspray on the underside, that I clearly told him to protect, as it is all in paint and powder coat and DONE.
The door I got fit the body well and lined up nicely with the body lines but left a huge gap under the A pillar cover.
I cut 3 strips from a floor pan I had here and built up the door to fill the gap.
Sorry to about the painter issues. I have heard that there were little changes in the doors in 66 with three different changes, the most known being the location of the holes punched for the window fuzzier and have heard that the fit along the a pillar was different along with the door knob design. I would still recommend the guy that does my painting here in Lake City. I have heard that the factory painted the body with doors and truck lid installed and on the chassis and then on different days painted the front fenders, hoods, and filler panel, so there was little differences in colors.