Looking forward to seeing it go back together now! Always fun to see a project at this stage, especially when you know the builder has the ability, means, and ambition to follow it through to the end. 

The Eagle has landed!

My Ohio LT-4 motor arrived Friday.

Looks pretty good to me .
I really like the Red LT-4 intake, pretty neat.
Motor is spotless, hope to just "plug and play" when the time comes.

Looks nice. Is there a reason you don’t want to put a 4l60e behind it and let the ecm control the transmission? Seem to make more sense to me then a 200 4R because you are going to have to fabricate something to make the tv cable work on a throttle body that never had anything like that? Just my 2 cents.

I was sure you could figure out the TV cable for me.

Isn't the 4L60E case larger and requiring some floor modifications? That is the primary reason.

Have not even considered that or compared ratio's.

I was pretty stuck on the 1996 LT-4 motor doe to the "look" and exact 40 year difference.

Looking for input.

Thanks!

Karl

more ambition than brains wrote:

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I was sure you could figure out the TV cable for me.

Isn't the 4L60E case larger and requiring some floor modifications? That is the primary reason.

Have not even considered that or compared ratio's.

I was pretty stuck on the 1996 LT-4 motor doe to the "look" and exact 40 year difference.

Looking for input.

Thanks!

Karl

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 There is not much difference in case size between a 200 4R and 4l60e. I put a 700r4 which is the same as 4l60e just not electric into my buddies 55 and it fit without any floor modifications. I would imagine the floor pan is the same 55-57?  The 4l60e has a much steeper first gear which some people don’t like, but for a driver like you are building I don’t think it would be a big deal.

Thanks for your input.

It is appreciated.

Tranny options included, manual, TREMEC TKX 5 speed.
GM 200R4, had not even considered 4L60E. Not sure why.

Thought was Biskwik would get a TKX with my 427 GM crate motor, eventually.
That feeds my need to shift.

Figured it may be simpler to deal with two (2) pedals in the 1956 LT-4 project.

Thus the Automatic preference.

Current status:
Decisions completed:
Modified Seamless 1956 Chevrolet frame with custom stub frame and all locations to accept Corvette C-4 suspension and steering. (sandblasted and epoxied)
(Builder says frame was actually a 55, but who is counting).
In stock, complete 1995 Corvette C-4 suspension, steering and complete rear Diffi and carrier. (Dana HD 3:42 ratio)
New arrival: 1996 LT-4 motor complete including harness, ECM exhaust manifold, Mass Air flow sensor Etc. 30000 mile unit, all front accessories, starter, flywheel and clutch.
Spare: Complete LT-1 motor, Exhaust system, wiring and body shell. Missing bell housing and multiple ZF transmission pieces. Has Intact coolers, etc.

Awaiting final decision: Tranny

What will work the best, and be easiest to install?

This is a 330 HP bone stock motor, could always be cammed up a bit. Rear differential gear is pretty well fixed, as is tire size.

Intended to be a cruiser, (grocery getter) Remember, When I was 21 I was fearless, at 71 fearful. 
Power and performance from 10 mph peaking at 80 mph.

Really only driven over 100 mph 3-4 times in my lifetime.

I do have a bunch of 4L60E trannys in my spare burbs, just need to change the tailhousings, beef up and build.

Bow Tie Overdrives does have a great site to muck around in.

Open to all ideas.

Karl

My Trailblazer SS has a 4l60e AWD, with a 6.0 not sure which gear.
Very streetable.
The Lt-1 Vettes were available with a 4l60e, once again have to research rear gear.
They also had the funky tail housing to accommodate the support bracket to rear differential, no tranny mount.
I think too, 1996 and earlier had 1 piece main case including bellhousing, later models had 2 piece main case.

More home work will keep you posted, thanks for listening and posting.
I do agree that the 4L60e is probably the better option.

Could get exciting trying to use cruise control pivot for the TV cable
Karl

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Three pedals, (TKX) over $6,000.00 plus, still would prefer Auto.
4L60E (pre 97) had one piece main case, Bell housing included in case.
1997 and newer have 2 piece. Separate bellhousing.
Most everything else is the same.
Both have mechanical cable linkage for shifting.
Meet the drive by wire criteria.

Found a low mileage 1994 early (one piece) core to have built.
Has tranny mount location, (2WD) that works also.

Sooo, LT- 4 computer programmed for manual, can that be re-programmed for auto?
Plan on getting a custom harness to eliminate all extra wires not needed.

Thoughts on Computer?

Karl

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 Yes the computer you have should be able to be reprogrammed to control an auto transmission. 

THANKS CHRIS!!

Appreciate your vast knowledge and willingness to share.
This will be better project thanks to you.

Karl

Sorry Karl I couldn’t confirm until I got to work today. That 1994 trans is not the same as a 1996 model in the tcc circuit has a extra solenoid that the 1994 does not. You are better to use a 1996-1997 core to make sure everything is going to match up.

 I also confirmed with Jim at TPIS that he can setup the ecm correctly for what you are wanting to do. 

Thanks again!!!!
To All

Or, Maybe 4l60 out of 1996 Vette, change rear case and shaft?
Karl

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Thanks again!!!!
To All

Or, Maybe 4l60 out of 1996 Vette, change rear case and shaft?
Karl

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 You already have that trans. May be the most economical route.

https://shiftworks.com/collections/tailhousings/products/1993-97-4l60e-tail-housing-kits

This is the tail housing kit needed to run both mechanical and electric speedos.

67ss wrote:

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https://shiftworks.com/collections/tailhousings/products/1993-97-4l60e-tail-housing-kits

 

This is the tail housing kit needed to run both mechanical and electric speedos.

---

 Same tail housing I used on my yellow Buick behind a 4L60E. It will move the tranny mount back about 3 inches if I remember correctly.  

Actually my 1995 parts car was a 6 speed manual.

I should have said "out of " a 1996 Vette.
My other complete 1996 is an auto, however, not parting that out either.

Derek used to have some 9C1 Caprices (Highway patrol) cars buried in the barn some time ago.
Guessing they are long ago parted out.

The place I got the LT-4 from actually has a 1995 Caprice, guessing 9C-1 because it has a spot light.
I will continue to fumble around till I find the right combination.

Thanks again to ALL!
Karl

more ambition than brains wrote:

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Derek used to have some 9C1 Caprices (Highway patrol) cars buried in the barn some time ago.
Guessing they are long ago parted out.

---

Yeah, I haven't had any Caprices for at least 10 years, but my brother Carl still has a couple.

I think I do still have a core transmission out of a 93 Caprice (TBI 305 car, not LT1) I don't know if that will help you, as I think the 93 was not electronically controlled. If I remember correctly, I think 92 was the last year they called it a 700R-4, 93 changed to 4L60, and 94 became 4L60"E". 

Thanks Derek.

I figured they were gone or too old.

Went on Carpart.com in the wee hours, came up with a transmission that should meet the criteria.
Per Chris's and Dereks recommendation:
1996, Buick Roadmaster 5.7 engine, 4l60E tranny.
Bought the core with torque converter and inspection cover.

Plan on picking up next week.
In Waterloo, hope to visit the Auctioneer that got me involved in the 1956 basket case.

Should be fun.
At a minimum this tranny should work for fitting and mock-up.
Can use as core or local build.

Karl

Does that mean NO creep at the Stop Light?
Probably even roll backward on a hill?


If I am correct, higher stall = more RPM to move, right?
Remember, I know nothing about nothing.

Karl

It may still provide a little creep at a stop. A "stall" converter will behave like any other under normal driving conditions. If you hit the throttle hard from a stop, the engine will overpower the converter until it hits the stall speed and then it will launch.

My '38 has a Grand National converter... 1,800-2,000 stall. I don't even notice it most of the time. If I mat the pedal, I notice it takes a bit to react then I wear out the tires a little. I had to learn the slight delay when I went to Bowling Green. It definitely added to the reaction time until I got the timing right for it to launch as the green came on.

OK, Have Transmission: 1996 Roadmaster 4L60E, also a core for fitting.

The late one has 2 possible rear mounts, one on main case one on tail-housing.

My core shell just has the one.

Plan on having TSI Burnsville do the build once drivetrain is mocked up.

Will make decision on mount location when I get there.

Some Progress.

Ron, Roger and I were all playing this last week.

Mocking up suspension. Actually, went together VERY well.

We were warned some holes needed to be slightly re-sized, bushings are going to be replaced anyway.

Ordered Fuel Tank mount kit from fabricator.

Also, tank, pump filter and pressure regulator from Tanks Inc. in Iowa. 41-48 Chevrolet tank. 18 gallon.

Already here.

Some assembly pictures.

Now i have to put tools away

Karl

I don't do puzzles for a reason.
I do not function well in the "abstract" Fortunately my Designer, fabricator, builder in Colorado does.

A text or E-mail gets me the answers I need to figure stuff out.
This is "some assembly required" project".
Lazlo in Colorado really has this conversion nailed.

Things a still fitting up very well.
Three bolts and two brackets away from having rear fully in place.

Plan on using QA-1 Coilovers, they have their ideas, Lazlo has his, I am going with Lazlo and his real world spread sheets backed up by actual installs.
Just need to verify final ride height and order.

Some pictures from this week.

Lookin' good. Keep at it and you can join Me and Bruce at back to the Fifties in the summer. Just throw the body on as-is and the patina crowd will love it...

Lost in the 60s wrote:

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Lookin' good. Keep at it and you can join Me and Bruce at back to the Fifties in the summer. Just throw the body on as-is and the patina crowd will love it...

---

 Good plan!

Ordered Coilovers last Wednesday from Summit racing.
Arrived today. Summit was very efficient.
Did a "will call" at QA-1 Lakeville to purchase Spanners and spring thrust washers.
Now, another opportunity to wreck something.
Assemble and install.

Should be an adventure!

Karl

Alright, some new parts !!

Put a few drops of a lightweight oil, such as, sewing machine or 3 in 1 on the bearing rollers. It helps them not gall from the pressure.

AND a coating of anti-seize on the barrel threads for the adjusting nuts...they WILL gall and seize if left dry. BTDT... I NOW use an acid brush and paint it into the thread grooves.

And you even got a nice new Summit sticker for free too!
glad to see the build is continuing to move forward

With your coaching and U-Tube I am confident of results!!!

It really does look fairly straight forward as far as shock assembly.

Lazlo (builder) also recommended settings for lock nut elevation.

Hope to play this Wednesday a/m as I am off work.

Beer 30 scheduled 2:30 at Red Fox, Lakeville.

Thanks!

Karl

Roughly assembled.
"Road tested" outside to make room for 4 post lift arrivals.

Current pictures of status, coming along.
Next focus on Fuel tank mountings and transmission crossmember/engine location.

That seems to be the case.

The fuel tank support is also above frame too.
Mounts just behind sway bar.
Kit came with cross bar and two upper straps; all will be welded to frame.
Spare tire well is going away also. 
Tank lower support straps bolt to welded front bracket and rear crossmember.
Went with 18 gallon tank.

I will post some pictures of tank bracket kit when I get closer.
Will rough fit and tack in place.
Both transmission crossmember and fuel tank mounts.

Will make sure drive train has correct angle to differential.
Aaaand, fuel tank clears everything.

Will set body to verify ALL clearances, including suspension, transmission and tank.
Lazlo says wheel housing pinch weld may need to ne notched a little to clear upper trailing arm.

Once all clearances are confirmed, fuel and brake line locations will be determined.

Then body can come back off and head for stripping.

Fun Stuff, thanks for the comments.

Karl

It's a full-on resto-MOD now...

I'm with you on that. I cut up the new floor of the Nomad last week to tub it and set the body on to check clearances too. Gonna be a process of imagineering how to tie all that together. Working in no man's land, since there are no aftermarket parts to actually tub a wagon and I'm using sedan tubs...

My friend Roger came over last Wednesday, (before our Beer-30)
Goal was to assemble torque converter, flexplate, transmission into one complete package.
Also install motor mounts on block

Plan was to set in/on chassis and work toward establishing drivetrain angles and crossmember location.

Drivetrain is kind of sitting in there still need to tweak motor mounts to line up with brackets.

Some Pictures:

Blew up my first try on Pictures.

VROOM-VROOM...

Not ready for prime time crossmember.

Front mounts are in and through bolted.

Crossmember is attached.

Going to play a little more on actual crossmember, this one came in a pile of parts with the Basket case 56 from Iowa.

Still need to dig through my A-Body inventory, and/or look at pre-fabricated one.

Going to focus on fuel tank and mounting for that.

Another friend Greg L. fabricates race Cars, he is also consulting on this with Roger D.

Important part is driveline angle.

We will get there.

Having funnnnnn!

Karl

Greg Larsen finished up remodeled crossmember.
He is really busy during the short track racing season as he does a lot of fabricating and repairs.

Greg called in some favors and had a local fabrication shop build and Lazer cut plates.
Old plates were removed.
He cleaned everything up and welded everything together.

We can still shave a little off the ends of the rebuilt crossmember to allow some addition tolerance.
Fits nice and tight with material to spare for the "width "shave"

Now back to leveling drivetrain with rear differential.
Then mounting brackets can be welded in position.
Plan to leave a little room or shimming up if needed to achieve the angles we want.

Also, will fit and weld fuel tank mountings.

Still preparing for the season change so somewhat distracted now.
Will do another post for "Frosty Scap and Salvage"

Karl