Finished making my "Custom Bumper mounts" to compensate for a slightly bent frame, totally Foose inspired (excel my work is just to get it back where it should be not pulled in a bit to the body)
Mitch, still only have one foot over the edge, i could still turn back ...
Stan, yes that is the blue and if i jump off the ledge it will be the original color. Kids are lobbying for a darker metallic Blue, for when i give it to them...
You should really get the frame straightened out before any major floor pan or body repair. If the horn is pushed back there is also a diamond in the whole frame. Centerline, where I work part time, can do that for you.
Turn back now and drive the car for the summer. Use the time to plan, buy parts and be ready for a major tear down next winter.
The original color will make it more valuable. The kids can paint it any color they want when it's theirs..
BLyke said
Mar 1, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
BLyke wrote:
Finished making my "Custom Bumper mounts" to compensate for a slightly bent frame, totally Foose inspired (excel my work is just to get it back where it should be not pulled in a bit to the body)
Mitch, still only have one foot over the edge, i could still turn back ...
Stan, yes that is the blue and if i jump off the ledge it will be the original color. Kids are lobbying for a darker metallic Blue, for when i give it to them...
You should really get the frame straightened out before any major floor pan or body repair. If the horn is pushed back there is also a diamond in the whole frame. Centerline, where I work part time, can do that for you.
Turn back now and drive the car for the summer. Use the time to plan, buy parts and be ready for a major tear down next winter.
The original color will make it more valuable. The kids can paint it any color they want when it's theirs..
All true and part of the evaluation process, very hard to fine a good balance.
Based on what is was when i got it, the car is destined to be a driver, and i need to find the sweet spot
Any full restoration, if it is ever done, will need to wait until I retire. that is still likely ~4-5 years off.
Thanks for the reality check and words of encouragement, when the time comes, your suggestion on finding a southern body to transplant may be the most reasonable and cost effective plan
in the mean time the plan is to keep learning and improving my skills while not doing anything that can't be fairly easily undone. The good set of bumper brackets are set aside for some future point when the frame is straitened or replaced.
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 2nd of March 2017 04:55:30 AM
BLyke said
Apr 11, 2017
Looking forward to seeing some of you on the 22nd. i thing the recovering of the bucket seats will be helpful to those of you thinking of trying it out.
we are about a mile east of the MILLS FLEET FARM and GANDER MOUNTAIN stores ON HWY 50 AND I-35
-- Edited by BLyke on Wednesday 12th of April 2017 09:03:52 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Apr 11, 2017
I have it on my calendar and may bring a seat with to work on together.
BLyke said
Apr 12, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I have it on my calendar and may bring a seat with to work on together.
that would be good, like any thing repetition helps.
BLyke said
Jul 23, 2017
Well it seems since it is late July and my car is still a long way from even a cheap paint job... might as well tear is apart some more for additional "Fix-ups"
Door hardware and windows off to sand and prep for paint.
Of course since i need to rebuild the passengers door hinges, the Hood, front fender, inner well well and head light housing are off.
Hard to tell where it will end, but next spring is the new goal to escape the CAC.
Lost in the 60s said
Jul 23, 2017
Dang, getting an "early" start on your winter project, eh ?
It feels like I'm going backwards on mine too. I removed the front clip and broke it down to get the pieces media blasted next week.
BLyke said
Jul 24, 2017
Yep, just needed to at least get it to "good enough" but that will a bit.
Good news is the fender is in good shape, just needs to have the part that if below the hood lint stripped and repainted.
PO did some strange things in the engine bay.
Lost in the 60s said
Jul 24, 2017
BLyke wrote:
Finished making my "Custom Bumper mounts" to compensate for a slightly bent frame, totally Foose inspired (excel my work is just to get it back where it should be not pulled in a bit to the body)
Mitch, still only have one foot over the edge, i could still turn back ...
Stan, yes that is the blue and if i jump off the ledge it will be the original color. Kids are lobbying for a darker metallic Blue, for when i give it to them...
-- Edited by BLyke on Tuesday 28th of February 2017 10:55:46 PM
Set a goal...you're going to drive it next June and if what you get involved in will prevent that...don't do it. I did that for 3 years, but mine has been apart for 19 months now. I WILL drive it next year, even if it's 10 different colors.
Speaking of colors, tell the kids THEY can paint it any color they want.....when it's theirs...
BLyke said
Jul 24, 2017
LOL
thanks Stan.
Cheryl asked tonight about painting it red (Resale Red?), think i will focus on the work and prep.
Now that most of the front end is off, what color should the firewall be? (sure sign of free fall mode)
Lost in the 60s said
Jul 24, 2017
BLyke wrote:
LOL thanks Stan. Cheryl asked tonight about painting it red (Resale Red?), think i will focus on the work and prep. Now that most of the front end is off, what color should the firewall be? (sure sign of free fall mode)
Firewall should be satin black, but you can't paint it until you get the other fender off and the engine/trans out...
BLyke said
Jul 25, 2017
"Firewall should be satin black" great, that is already done, just a bit of detailing needed
BLyke said
Aug 15, 2017
Finished rebuilding the hinge on the passenger side, door swing and close is so much better. Makes me see that the drivers side still could use it and will do it next. After the fender comes off, of course.
Did i mention the new spring of 2018 goal to finish "replacing the gas tank and patching a few spots" Followed a generic step by step i found on-line and it went petty well. Next one should be even easier.
-- Edited by BLyke on Tuesday 15th of August 2017 05:09:43 AM
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 15, 2017
Just a note, you don't need to remove the fender to remove the hinges. Remove the screws from the door and you can then access the hinges. A #4 Phillips bit in a 1/4" socket and ratchet helps get the screws out.
more ambition than brains said
Aug 15, 2017
Don't the 68 up Chevelles have hex bolts on both door and body half hinges?
Karl
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 15, 2017
more ambition than brains wrote:
Don't the 68 up Chevelles have hex bolts on both door and body half hinges?
Karl
Oh, yeah, could be, I'm still tuned to a '66 Chevelle methodology...
BLyke said
Aug 15, 2017
more ambition than brains wrote:
Don't the 68 up Chevelles have hex bolts on both door and body half hinges?
Karl
yep it has hex bolts, it still could be done, but the fender needed to come off anyways.
more ambition than brains said
Aug 16, 2017
Waaay easier to adjust door with fender off.
Karl
BLyke said
Aug 16, 2017
more ambition than brains wrote:
Waaay easier to adjust door with fender off.
Karl
Actually i did one at a time with the door shut and shimmed to the proper placement and it came out really nice.
lets hope the replacement location of the hood and fenders goes as well.
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 17th of August 2017 06:16:27 AM
more ambition than brains said
Aug 16, 2017
Let me know if you need a "consultation"
You are REALLY close.
Karl
BLyke said
Aug 19, 2017
Got to work on the car a bit more Mitch, it should not be too hard too clean up paint the firewall, since the engine and radiator core are all that is still the front. Found a few more areas that will need rust repair, the slippery slope seems to be picking up speed. Hopefully the uphill side will be dry when the time comes One more hinge to fix, each one goes a bit faster.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 19, 2017
I have a portable engine hoist, if you want to get the engine out of the way to paint the firewall.
BLyke said
Aug 19, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I have a portable engine hoist, if you want to get the engine out of the way to paint the firewall.
I also have one, so far I'm doing well in resisting the urge.
Will keep you posted on how that works out.
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 19, 2017
BLyke wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
I have a portable engine hoist, if you want to get the engine out of the way to paint the firewall.
I also have one, so far I'm doing well in resisting the urge.
Will keep you posted on how that works out.
..
BLyke said
Aug 24, 2017
Status update picture, remember, this started with replacing the gas tank and patching the trunk floor
Turns out the tank is in the back?
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:23:47 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:34:15 PM
Status update picture, remember, this started with replacing the gas tank and patching the trunk floor
Turns out the tank is in the back?
Wants me to sign in to see pic...
I'm thinking you have only a bare frame from the firewall forward..heck of a way to get to the gas tank, but hey, if it works for you...
BLyke said
Aug 27, 2017
The engine is still there, looks like i should not have deleted the email.
re-posted Pict.
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:34:47 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 28, 2017
You're close !!! Few more hours and the engine/trans should be on the floor to provide full access for firewall and frame restoration...
Let me know if you need encouragement/help..
BLyke said
Aug 28, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
You're close !!! Few more hours and the engine/trans should be on the floor to provide full access for firewall and frame restoration...
Let me know if you need encouragement/help..
Still trying to decide on a few minor details
once i pull it,(if is do)....
Sub on a new front end? stage III or IV or just a whole new frame and suspension
BB or LS
200R or 6 speed manual
Or draw the red line and start back up the slope
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 28th of August 2017 07:58:25 PM
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 28, 2017
BLyke wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
You're close !!! Few more hours and the engine/trans should be on the floor to provide full access for firewall and frame restoration...
Let me know if you need encouragement/help..
Still trying to decide on a few minor details
once i pull it,(if is do)....
Sub on a new front end? stage III or IV or just a whole new frame and suspension
BB or LS
200R or 6 speed manual
Or draw the red line and start back up the slope
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 28th of August 2017 07:58:25 PM
HUH ???!!! I thought this was a clean and paint.
Now you want it in pieces for 6 more years ?
Chris S said
Aug 29, 2017
Looks like you have plenty to keep you busy Bruce!
BLyke said
Aug 29, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
BLyke wrote:
Lost in the 60s wrote:
You're close !!! Few more hours and the engine/trans should be on the floor to provide full access for firewall and frame restoration...
Let me know if you need encouragement/help..
Still trying to decide on a few minor details
once i pull it,(if is do)....
Sub on a new front end? stage III or IV or just a whole new frame and suspension
BB or LS
200R or 6 speed manual
Or draw the red line and start back up the slope
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 28th of August 2017 07:58:25 PM
HUH ???!!! I thought this was a clean and paint.
Now you want it in pieces for 6 more years ?
only kidding Mitch
only thing i still plan to remove is the chrome around the back of the top near the trunk.
any one know how to do it?
Lost in the 60s said
Aug 29, 2017
I was thinking you were just throwing "stuff" out to get me going...
Never worked on a drop top, so no experience with that trim. Have you looked up from in the trunk to see if there are speed nuts holding the clips ?
more ambition than brains said
Aug 30, 2017
I could stop by and take a peek.
I think they might be friction fit where the clip, installed in moulding slides over pinch weld.
Ends may be t-bolted.
Lower top let it sag, you should be able to see fasteners.
Karl
SShink said
Aug 30, 2017
more ambition than brains wrote:
Lower top let it sag, you should be able to see fasteners. Karl
Karl is correct.
There are some smaller hex head bolts from the backside of the chrome trim screwed into the lip of the top opening. You will unscrew those with a small dia. ratchet. It's a little challenging, but take your time and it will be fine.
I think I did it with the top completely down.
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 30th of August 2017 12:37:12 PM
BLyke said
Aug 30, 2017
Thanks Karl and Stan,
i have been thinking that might be how it was set up. wanted to hear from someone who had done the deed.
Karl,
Will be a bit before I get to it but may take you up in the "peek"
My grandsons (12 & 9) stopped by tonight and are all eager to help work on it, including working to remove the gunk the PO got all over the place.
more ambition than brains said
Aug 31, 2017
Call me when you are ready.
The "friction fit" I was referring to means that there are clips locked into moulding. Corners are t-bolted.
Once the t-bolt nuts are removed, lift out of hole, wedge a shim to keep out of hole.
Use small block of hardwood or plastic, lay block on painted surface, tap block with hammer, driving moulding inward.
Move length of moulding, working a little bit at a time.
Be firm, but gentle.
Last time I dealt with this was 15-16 years ago.
I should check with Bruce Tschida at Lake Marion Collision, he has recently built several converts.
Karl
BLyke said
Sep 5, 2017
Will do Karl, thanks
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 5, 2017
OK, been 4 weeks since the last post. This car ready to drive by now...
BLyke said
Oct 5, 2017
LOL, thanks for checking... So Sears was closing and i bought a new tool box... So i had to make room... So my whole shop and attic are torn up.. So several loads of scrap hauled away.. So there were all the tools to put into the box and other items to sort... So I move a all but a few Nomad extra parts to the attic to have more room... So I hope to be able to get back to it within a week...
We did i think decide on a new color, same as a 1970 we had when the kids were little. Champagne Gold
PS, i decided not to put the engine hoist away... at least for now
Lost in the 60s said
Oct 5, 2017
That will look nice with the black top...
BLyke said
Oct 6, 2017
Yep, i think it will.
BLyke said
Oct 12, 2017
So i finally started back on the car last night Always wondered why the rear valance was off ~3/16" on each side, to short Pretty sure these bolts, welded on are not OEM
Wrong panel... '70 maybe ? I know they are different, but I don't know what is different.
BLyke said
Oct 14, 2017
It would be nice to see what the rear valance panel is suppose to look like and how it should mount.
On to rust repairs, lower driver fender has a ~2" hole filled with Bondo 1.5" thick,
BLyke said
Nov 2, 2017
Well i decided to dig in a a bit and strip off some of the body filler to see what the PO did. ~1/4" in places and well over 1/8 in large areas not sure what they were thinking (or maybe that applies to me too)
at least things are solid on the 1/4 panels
note the dust pan full of Bondo from just a quick sweep
Also did figure out the chrome trim removal, very simple (
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 2nd of November 2017 07:04:28 PM
Looks like the quarters have already been skinned. Did they really need that much filler to blend ?
BLyke said
Nov 2, 2017
Lost in the 60s wrote:
Looks like the quarters have already been skinned. Did they really need that much filler to blend ?
no, it looks like I can clean them up without too much filler.
its a lap seam and it is along the crease
at the back, it looks like it was done to compensate for mud around the trunk that made the lid have to move back
BLyke said
Nov 26, 2017
Well i found a little original paint, as well as come more "Swiss Cheese" when i pulled the chrome around the windshield. One door now off and the other will too. Got some champagne gold single stage and am planning to do some "jamming" to see how i like it.
That's about the same spot I had on the '72 vert, along with many others.
How does it look under the stainless strip at the bottom of the windshield? That was where the real surprise was that we found with almost an inch of metal rusted away.
You should really get the frame straightened out before any major floor pan or body repair. If the horn is pushed back there is also a diamond in the whole frame. Centerline, where I work part time, can do that for you.
Turn back now and drive the car for the summer. Use the time to plan, buy parts and be ready for a major tear down next winter.
The original color will make it more valuable. The kids can paint it any color they want when it's theirs..
All true and part of the evaluation process, very hard to fine a good balance.
Based on what is was when i got it, the car is destined to be a driver, and i need to find the sweet spot
Any full restoration, if it is ever done, will need to wait until I retire. that is still likely ~4-5 years off.
Thanks for the reality check and words of encouragement, when the time comes, your suggestion on finding a southern body to transplant may be the most reasonable and cost effective plan
in the mean time the plan is to keep learning and improving my skills while not doing anything that can't be fairly easily undone. The good set of bumper brackets are set aside for some future point when the frame is straitened or replaced.
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 2nd of March 2017 04:55:30 AM
Looking forward to seeing some of you on the 22nd.
i thing the recovering of the bucket seats will be helpful to those of you thinking of trying it out.
we are about a mile east of the MILLS FLEET FARM and GANDER MOUNTAIN stores ON HWY 50 AND I-35
-- Edited by BLyke on Wednesday 12th of April 2017 09:03:52 PM
I have it on my calendar and may bring a seat with to work on together.
that would be good, like any thing repetition helps.
Door hardware and windows off to sand and prep for paint.
Of course since i need to rebuild the passengers door hinges, the Hood, front fender, inner well well and head light housing are off.
Hard to tell where it will end, but next spring is the new goal to escape the CAC.
It feels like I'm going backwards on mine too. I removed the front clip and broke it down to get the pieces media blasted next week.
Good news is the fender is in good shape, just needs to have the part that if below the hood lint stripped and repainted.
PO did some strange things in the engine bay.
Set a goal...you're going to drive it next June and if what you get involved in will prevent that...don't do it. I did that for 3 years, but mine has been apart for 19 months now. I WILL drive it next year, even if it's 10 different colors.
Speaking of colors, tell the kids THEY can paint it any color they want.....when it's theirs...
thanks Stan.
Cheryl asked tonight about painting it red (Resale Red?), think i will focus on the work and prep.
Now that most of the front end is off, what color should the firewall be? (sure sign of free fall mode)
Firewall should be satin black, but you can't paint it until you get the other fender off and the engine/trans out...
"Firewall should be satin black"
great, that is already done, just a bit of detailing needed
Finished rebuilding the hinge on the passenger side, door swing and close is so much better. Makes me see that the drivers side still could use it and will do it next.
After the fender comes off, of course.
Did i mention the new spring of 2018 goal to finish "replacing the gas tank and patching a few spots"
Followed a generic step by step i found on-line and it went petty well. Next one should be even easier.
-- Edited by BLyke on Tuesday 15th of August 2017 05:09:43 AM
Karl
Oh, yeah, could be, I'm still tuned to a '66 Chevelle methodology...
yep it has hex bolts, it still could be done, but the fender needed to come off anyways.
Karl
Actually i did one at a time with the door shut and shimmed to the proper placement and it came out really nice.
lets hope the replacement location of the hood and fenders goes as well.
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 17th of August 2017 06:16:27 AM
You are REALLY close.
Karl
Got to work on the car a bit more Mitch, it should not be too hard too clean up paint the firewall, since the engine and radiator core are all that is still the front.
Found a few more areas that will need rust repair, the slippery slope seems to be picking up speed.
Hopefully the uphill side will be dry when the time comes
One more hinge to fix, each one goes a bit faster.
I also have one, so far I'm doing well in resisting the urge.
Will keep you posted on how that works out.
Status update picture, remember, this started with replacing the gas tank and patching the trunk floor
Turns out the tank is in the back?
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:23:47 PM
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:34:15 PM
Wants me to sign in to see pic...
I'm thinking you have only a bare frame from the firewall forward..heck of a way to get to the gas tank, but hey, if it works for you...
The engine is still there, looks like i should not have deleted the email.
re-posted Pict.
-- Edited by BLyke on Sunday 27th of August 2017 06:34:47 PM
You're close !!! Few more hours and the engine/trans should be on the floor to provide full access for firewall and frame restoration...
Let me know if you need encouragement/help..
Still trying to decide on a few minor details
once i pull it,(if is do)....
Sub on a new front end? stage III or IV or just a whole new frame and suspension
BB or LS
200R or 6 speed manual
Or draw the red line and start back up the slope
-- Edited by BLyke on Monday 28th of August 2017 07:58:25 PM
HUH ???!!! I thought this was a clean and paint.
Now you want it in pieces for 6 more years ?
Looks like you have plenty to keep you busy Bruce!
only kidding Mitch
only thing i still plan to remove is the chrome around the back of the top near the trunk.
any one know how to do it?
I was thinking you were just throwing "stuff" out to get me going...
Never worked on a drop top, so no experience with that trim. Have you looked up from in the trunk to see if there are speed nuts holding the clips ?
I think they might be friction fit where the clip, installed in moulding slides over pinch weld.
Ends may be t-bolted.
Lower top let it sag, you should be able to see fasteners.
Karl
Karl is correct.
There are some smaller hex head bolts from the backside of the chrome trim screwed into the lip of the top opening. You will unscrew those with a small dia. ratchet. It's a little challenging, but take your time and it will be fine.
I think I did it with the top completely down.
-- Edited by SShink on Wednesday 30th of August 2017 12:37:12 PM
i have been thinking that might be how it was set up. wanted to hear from someone who had done the deed.
Karl,
Will be a bit before I get to it but may take you up in the "peek"
My grandsons (12 & 9) stopped by tonight and are all eager to help work on it, including working to remove the gunk the PO got all over the place.
The "friction fit" I was referring to means that there are clips locked into moulding. Corners are t-bolted.
Once the t-bolt nuts are removed, lift out of hole, wedge a shim to keep out of hole.
Use small block of hardwood or plastic, lay block on painted surface, tap block with hammer, driving moulding inward.
Move length of moulding, working a little bit at a time.
Be firm, but gentle.
Last time I dealt with this was 15-16 years ago.
I should check with Bruce Tschida at Lake Marion Collision, he has recently built several converts.
Karl
OK, been 4 weeks since the last post. This car ready to drive by now...
LOL, thanks for checking...
So Sears was closing and i bought a new tool box...
So i had to make room...
So my whole shop and attic are torn up..
So several loads of scrap hauled away..
So there were all the tools to put into the box and other items to sort...
So I move a all but a few Nomad extra parts to the attic to have more room...
So I hope to be able to get back to it within a week...
We did i think decide on a new color, same as a 1970 we had when the kids were little.
Champagne Gold
PS, i decided not to put the engine hoist away... at least for now
That will look nice with the black top...
So i finally started back on the car last night
Always wondered why the rear valance was off ~3/16" on each side, to short
Pretty sure these bolts, welded on are not OEM
On to rust repairs, lower driver fender has a ~2" hole filled with Bondo 1.5" thick,
Well i decided to dig in a a bit and strip off some of the body filler to see what the PO did.
~1/4" in places and well over 1/8 in large areas
not sure what they were thinking (or maybe that applies to me too)
at least things are solid on the 1/4 panels
note the dust pan full of Bondo from just a quick sweep
Also did figure out the chrome trim removal, very simple (
-- Edited by BLyke on Thursday 2nd of November 2017 07:04:28 PM
Looks like the quarters have already been skinned. Did they really need that much filler to blend ?
no, it looks like I can clean them up without too much filler.
its a lap seam and it is along the crease
at the back, it looks like it was done to compensate for mud around the trunk that made the lid have to move back
Well i found a little original paint, as well as come more "Swiss Cheese" when i pulled the chrome around the windshield.
One door now off and the other will too.
Got some champagne gold single stage and am planning to do some "jamming" to see how i like it.
That's about the same spot I had on the '72 vert, along with many others.
How does it look under the stainless strip at the bottom of the windshield? That was where the real surprise was that we found with almost an inch of metal rusted away.